JRXS_chris

Mines very similar to the above. You've done a great job looks nice and tidy.

I have mounted the electrics nearer to the centre of the chassis however. I'll post a pic up later.

One thing that concerns me however about yours jkirkwood is the amount of wire you have used, think of all that weight high up!

I'm going to work on my electrics to keep the positions the same but reduce the amount wire needed. One thing that I read with interest in one of the UK mags was how one racer in 12th had removed all the insulation off the wires and coated them with heatshrink removing a lot of weight. Possibly worth a try...

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Has anybody tried the 52% - 48% balance ratio that is recommended in the back of the instruction manual. Seems a bit extreme.

Pablo Diablo

iTrader: (3)

I would be surprised if the insulation weighs more than a gram or so. Heatshrink would not offer anywhere near the protection of the rubber insulation on good quality wire nor would it be as flexible.

jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

I thought about that and weighted a few inch segments of wire and decided the weight savings wasn't worth the hassle of having to unsolder the wire to do motor maintenance (cleaning and lubing) and timing adjustments. The wires are just long enough to be able to remove the motor and work on it above the car. I club race mostly anyways and the grip is low so having a little higher than normal CG isn't all that bad.

Also in consideration was weight balance and that's why the ESC is as far forward as it is. If I was running mod or a 10.5 turn I would probably move it back a bit.

I do agree with you and if I was attending a few bigger events I would make it a bit shorter.

I did some testing of this for a few weeks and for stock (17.5T) I concluded having a touch more weight in the front was good for me. My fast laps wasn't any faster with the weight moved forward but the the average lap was faster as the car was just easier to drive. There is actually some weight under the front diff that you cannot see in the picture above. There are balancing holes in the center of the chassis to help determine your weight balance or you could use scale mounted under each axle.

stephenianjames

iTrader: (28)

Hi guys,

I have a question about the PRS spur adaptor.

Having just bought one to fit to my newly built Type-R, I'm actually not exactly sure about how it fixes to the drive hub.

When I press the alloy spur adaptor onto the plastic drive hub (with the drive pin) I can't quite get the alloy adaptor hard against the plastic (there seems to be a gap of approx 1mm). Also when I use the 3 screws to attach the spur gear to the adaptor, they only seem to key into the alloy itself and not the plastuc hub behind. I'm doing my absolute best to ensure that the drive pin sits into the little slot on the back of the alloy adaptor piece.

Am I missing something here? The adaptor seems to be a tight, press fit only.

Can someone please give me some guidance?

Thanks in advance.

Steve

JRXS_chris

I found the standard pin used for the Losi spur gear to be a little bit too long for use with the PRS adaptor. I used a slightly smaller pin and it fitted much better.

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

Either get a smaller pin or just grind the stock one down a little so it fits tighter to the plastic hub. The screws for the spur gear are only suppose to screw into the aluminum part, not the plastic hub part.

metalracer2

iTrader: (20)

you also have to be able to put the e-clip on. that is what locks the prs hub to the plastic. If you don’t put the e-clip on the prs adapter with come off when driving the car

stephenianjames

iTrader: (28)

Thanks guys...I appreciate your advice. I feel dumb not realising buy hey, I guess that's what forums are for.

Cheers,

Steve

dcuz383

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all of the input. I will move the ESC to the side once I get some longer motor wires. I'm new to the sport and have many questions about setup. I have only raced in two events. One was the Florida State series (17.5 class at Kississme Raceway and the other was a heads up 13.5 shootout at Superior Hobbies in Casselberry. Both events I raced a Corally RDX PHI, LRP SPX ESC, Novak 17.5/13.5 that I bought at Snowbirds. A good friend of mine owns the local hobby shop convinced me to partner up with him and start racing a product that he sells. So we chose the JRX-S and ordered six kits. Three for him and three for me. The plan is to race the 17.5 and the 13.5 class with a backup car each. Heres my next question. When I was walking around Snowbirds I saw people with these scales weighing their cars on all four tires. So I built one. Pics Below. Here is what I found. The car with body weighted 3lbs. 5.25oz. total. The Left Front 404 grams, Right Front 315 grams, Left Rear 342 grams, and Right Rear 448 grams. Racing outdoors on asphalt what numbers should I be looking for? Perfect balance or the 52/48 percent? Seams to be way off. I have a Corally Tweaker and tweaked it. It was way off. I had to loosen the Lipo tray to do so. I will move the ESC before I make any changes. Thanks again for the help.

JRXS_chris

The metal lipo tray is a bit of a squeeze so if you force it in it will tweak the chassis. File the chassis so it fits in perfectly.

Pablo Diablo

iTrader: (3)

Tried running a low rear roll center for the first time and noticed that it took away a lot of rear grip to the point I lost all confidence driving the car. Anyone else found this? I have also noticed that?
Most rubber/asphalt setups I have read have high front low rear roll center. Is that to find more steering?

dcuz383

iTrader: (1)

I was looking through my parts and found that I have two sets of arms with different part numbers. LOSA9862 and LOSA2223. Whats the difference?

a_main_attendee

iTrader: (2)

LOSA9862 are EA3 material, the LOSA2223 is a "stifezzel" compound...

I may be wrong about the LOSA2223, but the importance is the difference in material between the two.

dcuz383

iTrader: (1)

Which is better and why?