BMI's DB12R
07-02-2009, 12:44 PM
#7517
Here's my latest new paint for my DB12RR 
Should look even better once it is fully cut out with a couple stickers on it. I didn't get as much color contrast as I had hoped on the flames so next time I will probably use different colors.
Should look even better once it is fully cut out with a couple stickers on it. I didn't get as much color contrast as I had hoped on the flames so next time I will probably use different colors.
07-02-2009, 03:37 PM
#7518
Nice design, looks good Inspector 
07-03-2009, 03:04 AM
#7519
Ok got it all cut out and stickered up now
07-03-2009, 09:22 AM
#7520
Car looks good Burt, I look forward to baptizing it tomorrow! 
07-03-2009, 10:58 PM
#7521
Good paint job gadgt.
07-04-2009, 02:45 AM
#7522
And the BMI siblings
07-04-2009, 08:58 AM
#7524
Hey guys. Can some of you post pics of your flat servo install? Im having a hard time getting the link flat when looking down on the car. Either the servo is pushed up against the front arm or I had to drill new holes to get the servo back enough. Its not the new RR if that helps.
Next question. The new RR L-plates, is the extra hole more forward making the plate longer or is it the same length with an extra hole to make it stiffer?
Got my new 12R running yesterday. Spent most of my time getting the chassis sorted out. Started out with a little push on/off power. Played with a few things and ended up with a slot car. The car is very honest. Every change shows on the track. Very nice compared to some of the cars I have driven lately. Most of my problems is with the Akerman. -15% expo was too uneven for me and -10% wasn't enough. Just to overly responsive for me. I drilled new holes to move the servo back for the next time out but kinda worrying that it might take too much on power steering out. I allready have the upper arm forward.
Im sure a few will ask for the setup, its kinda odd and not done yet but this is what I ended up with.
Front
5deg block
arm forward (2degs ?)
.020 spring
7000 on kingpin
.05mm droop
1 deg camber
0 toe
Rear
Thick L-plate with/out set screw
7000 in tubes (thinking 10000 would be better)
30wt and red spring (blue was too soft and red too hard, have gold now and going 35wt next time out)
2mm pod droop (have 1mm now)
Black ballstud with no washers on mount
Tires
Magenta frt with 3/4 inside doop
Pink rear full doop
The fronts are still getting a little build up and wearing faster than the rear. The only other thing I can think of is that if the car gets a little off line it wont come back. Thinking maybe .018 front and thin plate in back will cure that. This way I dont have to goto softer tires.
Next question. The new RR L-plates, is the extra hole more forward making the plate longer or is it the same length with an extra hole to make it stiffer?
Got my new 12R running yesterday. Spent most of my time getting the chassis sorted out. Started out with a little push on/off power. Played with a few things and ended up with a slot car. The car is very honest. Every change shows on the track. Very nice compared to some of the cars I have driven lately. Most of my problems is with the Akerman. -15% expo was too uneven for me and -10% wasn't enough. Just to overly responsive for me. I drilled new holes to move the servo back for the next time out but kinda worrying that it might take too much on power steering out. I allready have the upper arm forward.
Im sure a few will ask for the setup, its kinda odd and not done yet but this is what I ended up with.
Front
5deg block
arm forward (2degs ?)
.020 spring
7000 on kingpin
.05mm droop
1 deg camber
0 toe
Rear
Thick L-plate with/out set screw
7000 in tubes (thinking 10000 would be better)
30wt and red spring (blue was too soft and red too hard, have gold now and going 35wt next time out)
2mm pod droop (have 1mm now)
Black ballstud with no washers on mount
Tires
Magenta frt with 3/4 inside doop
Pink rear full doop
The fronts are still getting a little build up and wearing faster than the rear. The only other thing I can think of is that if the car gets a little off line it wont come back. Thinking maybe .018 front and thin plate in back will cure that. This way I dont have to goto softer tires.
07-04-2009, 09:35 AM
#7525
Jason,
What is the part number for the standard flex plates? Also, do you have them in stock? I can't find them on your website.
Thanks,
Ray
What is the part number for the standard flex plates? Also, do you have them in stock? I can't find them on your website.
Thanks,
Ray
07-04-2009, 11:19 AM
#7526
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Ran single cell lipo for the first time. Only thing I changed was front/center shock springs Went to 18's and a 10lb from 20's and 12lb. Car drove great in 4 cell 17.5 and 13.5.
Didn't expect that much of a change but WOW! Car had no steering whatsoever. Full wheel turn and it pushed to the boards. I'll have to start over on the setup. I ran my normal BSR XX pinks front and rear. Good place to start would be there. Kind of scary, but I'm thinking I need to go softer in front? I'll also move the battery all the way back to try and get better weight transfer for more steering on corner entry. Anyone else been in a similar situation I'd appreciate any more tips/idea's. Thanks!
Didn't expect that much of a change but WOW! Car had no steering whatsoever. Full wheel turn and it pushed to the boards. I'll have to start over on the setup. I ran my normal BSR XX pinks front and rear. Good place to start would be there. Kind of scary, but I'm thinking I need to go softer in front? I'll also move the battery all the way back to try and get better weight transfer for more steering on corner entry. Anyone else been in a similar situation I'd appreciate any more tips/idea's. Thanks!
07-04-2009, 11:40 AM
#7527
Hey guys. Can some of you post pics of your flat servo install? Im having a hard time getting the link flat when looking down on the car. Either the servo is pushed up against the front arm or I had to drill new holes to get the servo back enough. Its not the new RR if that helps.
Ran single cell lipo for the first time. Only thing I changed was front/center shock springs Went to 18's and a 10lb from 20's and 12lb. Car drove great in 4 cell 17.5 and 13.5.
Didn't expect that much of a change but WOW! Car had no steering whatsoever. Full wheel turn and it pushed to the boards. I'll have to start over on the setup. I ran my normal BSR XX pinks front and rear. Good place to start would be there. Kind of scary, but I'm thinking I need to go softer in front? I'll also move the battery all the way back to try and get better weight transfer for more steering on corner entry. Anyone else been in a similar situation I'd appreciate any more tips/idea's. Thanks!
Didn't expect that much of a change but WOW! Car had no steering whatsoever. Full wheel turn and it pushed to the boards. I'll have to start over on the setup. I ran my normal BSR XX pinks front and rear. Good place to start would be there. Kind of scary, but I'm thinking I need to go softer in front? I'll also move the battery all the way back to try and get better weight transfer for more steering on corner entry. Anyone else been in a similar situation I'd appreciate any more tips/idea's. Thanks!
07-04-2009, 04:09 PM
#7529
Ran single cell lipo for the first time. Only thing I changed was front/center shock springs Went to 18's and a 10lb from 20's and 12lb. Car drove great in 4 cell 17.5 and 13.5.
Didn't expect that much of a change but WOW! Car had no steering whatsoever. Full wheel turn and it pushed to the boards. I'll have to start over on the setup. I ran my normal BSR XX pinks front and rear. Good place to start would be there. Kind of scary, but I'm thinking I need to go softer in front? I'll also move the battery all the way back to try and get better weight transfer for more steering on corner entry. Anyone else been in a similar situation I'd appreciate any more tips/idea's. Thanks!
Didn't expect that much of a change but WOW! Car had no steering whatsoever. Full wheel turn and it pushed to the boards. I'll have to start over on the setup. I ran my normal BSR XX pinks front and rear. Good place to start would be there. Kind of scary, but I'm thinking I need to go softer in front? I'll also move the battery all the way back to try and get better weight transfer for more steering on corner entry. Anyone else been in a similar situation I'd appreciate any more tips/idea's. Thanks!
One thing I have done with the lipo cars is mount EVERYTHING as far back as i can. Smallest spur to get the motor back. Pack in back, speedo and rx right against the pack. Servo behind the tie rods. Then take caster out till it drives upto the corner with out lifting. When you lift it snaps around the corner and your gone !
Chris Moore.....Thanks for the pics. My tie rods had that much angle when looking from the top and it was way too responsive for me right around center. At the ends it was great. I have drilled new holes to move the servo back and now my tie rods are straight when looking from any angle. Should be able to get a test run in the next couple of days to see if it smoothed things out.
DK
07-05-2009, 01:38 AM
#7530