Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!
|
|||
#781
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
red lube - approx 1000wt
white lube - 3000wt
blue lube - 10000wt
Source: https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules....653&highlight=
white lube - 3000wt
blue lube - 10000wt
Source: https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules....653&highlight=
#782
Tech Champion
That is the new lube in the tubes. He was asking about the older stuff in the bottles with the color coded caps.
#784
I bought my CRC Xi less than 2 months ago and it came with a small bottle with a red top.
It's one step away from being water.
Skiddins
It's one step away from being water.
Skiddins
#787
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
If you guys are looking to get another, or looking at getting one altogether, mine's up for sale.
CRC Gen-XTi Roller
CRC Gen-XTi Roller
#789
Tech Addict
iTrader: (38)
For some reason, the washers look way thinner than the ones on my cars. I measured the best I could without taking the car apart and came up with .015" for each washer. Yours look to be about half that. The replacement ones should be part number 1253. Strange thing is I have spares that I ordered a while back and some measure .015 and some are .0065 (which is what it looks like you have).
#790
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
Newbie question...
Pod droop, how important is it? The reason I'm asking is that I had a small crash but it popped the end off the shock, thus I put a new one one, but I'm not sure how measure the droop (yes I did read the setup guild for the XL) but I really need a pictures or something...
The reason I'm asking, is the car was not handling as well after, and felt less responsive... I'm running 3.5m of RH front, center and rear... It ran about .2 second slower, and it was noticeable on the infield.
As I understand it, I pick up by the role over tube, just before the wheel lift, and measure, but measure what the rear pod or the front pod (at the hing point (center))... or do I have this wrong?
I just found this:
Pod droop, how important is it? The reason I'm asking is that I had a small crash but it popped the end off the shock, thus I put a new one one, but I'm not sure how measure the droop (yes I did read the setup guild for the XL) but I really need a pictures or something...
The reason I'm asking, is the car was not handling as well after, and felt less responsive... I'm running 3.5m of RH front, center and rear... It ran about .2 second slower, and it was noticeable on the infield.
As I understand it, I pick up by the role over tube, just before the wheel lift, and measure, but measure what the rear pod or the front pod (at the hing point (center))... or do I have this wrong?
I just found this:
- Speed Merchant Rev6 - Bruce Carbone - Pod Droop vs Chassis Sag -
While processing the setup sheet for the Team Speed Merchant Rev6, Speed Merchant's boss Bruce Carbone asked to add a field named "Chassis Sag" on the document. Questioning about what is Chassis Sag and if that is similar to Pod Droop, Bruce provide the following details:
Pod Droop is how far past even the bottom plate drops below the chassis at the center shock's full extension. In other words, if you look at the car from the side, and hold it in the air, it's how many degrees or millimeters the bottom plate angles downward. Personally, I've always used degrees...i.e. "I have about 2 degrees of Droop", but some people like to use Millimeters, which is basically Down-Travel past center, or past the chassis and bottom plate being even.
Chassis Sag...... is when the car is completely ready to run....ready to hit the track. Push down on your roll over antenna.....generally, the car should squat and return up, but not all the way (Unless you have your center spring really maxed out). Now, if you gently pull up on your roll over antenna, the chassis should lift until it hits the shock's full extension. Usually, about 1/2 mm, but sometimes more (especially is you have a lot of Pod Droop (bumpy tracks)). The more Chassis Sag you have, the more mellow your car is to drive, But if you have a lot of Sag, and a lot of Droop, the car will get very unpredictable...especially "off-power"...like entering a sharp 180 degree turn.....because the Droop will let too much weight transfer to the front of the car.
Hope it helps... Now off to correct my car... I think I only have a bout 1m of droop, not sure on the sag....
While processing the setup sheet for the Team Speed Merchant Rev6, Speed Merchant's boss Bruce Carbone asked to add a field named "Chassis Sag" on the document. Questioning about what is Chassis Sag and if that is similar to Pod Droop, Bruce provide the following details:
Pod Droop is how far past even the bottom plate drops below the chassis at the center shock's full extension. In other words, if you look at the car from the side, and hold it in the air, it's how many degrees or millimeters the bottom plate angles downward. Personally, I've always used degrees...i.e. "I have about 2 degrees of Droop", but some people like to use Millimeters, which is basically Down-Travel past center, or past the chassis and bottom plate being even.
Chassis Sag...... is when the car is completely ready to run....ready to hit the track. Push down on your roll over antenna.....generally, the car should squat and return up, but not all the way (Unless you have your center spring really maxed out). Now, if you gently pull up on your roll over antenna, the chassis should lift until it hits the shock's full extension. Usually, about 1/2 mm, but sometimes more (especially is you have a lot of Pod Droop (bumpy tracks)). The more Chassis Sag you have, the more mellow your car is to drive, But if you have a lot of Sag, and a lot of Droop, the car will get very unpredictable...especially "off-power"...like entering a sharp 180 degree turn.....because the Droop will let too much weight transfer to the front of the car.
Last edited by bvoltz; 12-17-2012 at 01:55 PM.
#791
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
Pod droop is very important. It effects how much weight gets transfered to the front of the car off power. More droop = more weight transfer. I measure ride height at front of pod then pull where shock attaches to pod till suspension locks out and re measure, that # is your droop.
Last edited by 303slowdown; 12-17-2012 at 08:35 PM.
#792
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
Is there a list of the CRC center shock springs in order from softest to hardest (or vis-versa)?
The CRC site lists each spring as the color then 7# or 9# or whatever. Does that mean each spring rate is 7 or 9 or whatever lbs? So that would mean softest to hardest:
Blue
White
Red
Green
Purple
Black
Just somewhat new to 1/12th and its not real clear to me what is what. Just wanting to experiment at the local track a bit.
Thanks!
Seth
The CRC site lists each spring as the color then 7# or 9# or whatever. Does that mean each spring rate is 7 or 9 or whatever lbs? So that would mean softest to hardest:
Blue
White
Red
Green
Purple
Black
Just somewhat new to 1/12th and its not real clear to me what is what. Just wanting to experiment at the local track a bit.
Thanks!
Seth
#793
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
Pod droop is very important. It effects how much weight gets transfered to the front of the car off power. More droop = more weight transfer. I measure ride height at front of pod then pull where shock attaches to pod till suspension lacks out and re measure, that # is your droop.
#794
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
Is there a list of the CRC center shock springs in order from softest to hardest (or vis-versa)?
The CRC site lists each spring as the color then 7# or 9# or whatever. Does that mean each spring rate is 7 or 9 or whatever lbs? So that would mean softest to hardest:
Blue
White
Red
Green
Purple
Black
Just somewhat new to 1/12th and its not real clear to me what is what. Just wanting to experiment at the local track a bit.
Thanks!
Seth
The CRC site lists each spring as the color then 7# or 9# or whatever. Does that mean each spring rate is 7 or 9 or whatever lbs? So that would mean softest to hardest:
Blue
White
Red
Green
Purple
Black
Just somewhat new to 1/12th and its not real clear to me what is what. Just wanting to experiment at the local track a bit.
Thanks!
Seth
Yep and yep. You're both correct.