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Old 01-10-2015, 08:59 PM
  #496  
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From OFNA ' site...
Attached Thumbnails OFNA X3 GT SERIES-front-suspension-750.jpg  
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Old 01-18-2015, 12:48 PM
  #497  
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Had a blast running the car today BUT I blew out the center of the factory disk. Lol. I am getting ready to order but I need to know if the screws need to be changed to accommodate the new pads and rotor??

Also what is the stock pinion and spur???
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Old 01-30-2015, 09:12 PM
  #498  
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Post New X3 GT - What do I need?

I have been chatting with Spooky1 about getting back into GT this season. Last time I ran this class was when there were only Infernos running around on GRP tires.

With the deal on Nitrohouse for the 80% car I just don't think I can pass that up.

I know I need engine,servos,pipe, tires, starting equipment, fuel and like, paint.. but what I really need to know is what I would want for setup?

Things like Dual disk brakes, different caster blocks, sway bars, is the stock body competitive, etc.?

I am a fairly capable racer and I run pretty clean, so breakage is rare for me. I do like having certain spare parts though.. Would extra hinge pins, rod ends, shock ends, gears, caster blocks, and knuckles suffice or is there some other weak part I should be aware of?

Thanks,
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Old 01-31-2015, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TeamCody
I have been chatting with Spooky1 about getting back into GT this season. Last time I ran this class was when there were only Infernos running around on GRP tires.

With the deal on Nitrohouse for the 80% car I just don't think I can pass that up.

I know I need engine,servos,pipe, tires, starting equipment, fuel and like, paint.. but what I really need to know is what I would want for setup?

Things like Dual disk brakes, different caster blocks, sway bars, is the stock body competitive, etc.?

I am a fairly capable racer and I run pretty clean, so breakage is rare for me. I do like having certain spare parts though.. Would extra hinge pins, rod ends, shock ends, gears, caster blocks, and knuckles suffice or is there some other weak part I should be aware of?

Thanks,
I've run the car since it came out. Tank, lower motor mounts, 43/13 gearing, 10 degree hubs (might try the serpent plastic for cost) and upgraded brake disc / pads are needed. Dual brakes help but not required. Body works very well and no real weak parts on the car. Gus can confirm that I hit stuff .... Sometimes hard. The OFNA, Optional flywheel will help with clearance if you do the dual brakes. CVD for the rear is not needed, sway bars are personal choice. The aluminum holders for hinge pins give you more options, but the stock settings are pretty good. Rear back bar from the off road car can't be used as the GT car does not have kick up in the back of the chassis.

Watch clearance on the rear drive shaft between 2 speed and rear diff. May need to grind some clearance on the engine mounting flange. You will want 3 or 4 small bearings in the clutch bell. PM me and I'll tell you how to build it.
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Grenade10
I've run the car since it came out. Tank, lower motor mounts, 43/13 gearing, 10 degree hubs (might try the serpent plastic for cost) and upgraded brake disc / pads are needed. Dual brakes help but not required. Body works very well and no real weak parts on the car. Gus can confirm that I hit stuff .... Sometimes hard. The OFNA, Optional flywheel will help with clearance if you do the dual brakes. CVD for the rear is not needed, sway bars are personal choice. The aluminum holders for hinge pins give you more options, but the stock settings are pretty good. Rear back bar from the off road car can't be used as the GT car does not have kick up in the back of the chassis.

Watch clearance on the rear drive shaft between 2 speed and rear diff. May need to grind some clearance on the engine mounting flange. You will want 3 or 4 small bearings in the clutch bell. PM me and I'll tell you how to build it.
Or go to Igt8.com
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Old 01-31-2015, 04:02 PM
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What's the reason for running the 43/13 transmission gearing vs the stock? I guess if I knew the stock transmission gearing I could figure it out.
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Old 01-31-2015, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Grenade10
I've run the car since it came out. Tank, lower motor mounts, 43/13 gearing, 10 degree hubs (might try the serpent plastic for cost) and upgraded brake disc / pads are needed. Dual brakes help but not required. Body works very well and no real weak parts on the car. Gus can confirm that I hit stuff .... Sometimes hard. The OFNA, Optional flywheel will help with clearance if you do the dual brakes. CVD for the rear is not needed, sway bars are personal choice. The aluminum holders for hinge pins give you more options, but the stock settings are pretty good. Rear back bar from the off road car can't be used as the GT car does not have kick up in the back of the chassis.

Watch clearance on the rear drive shaft between 2 speed and rear diff. May need to grind some clearance on the engine mounting flange. You will want 3 or 4 small bearings in the clutch bell. PM me and I'll tell you how to build it.
Thank you for this information! I am on the right track then Everyone out here runs Serpent, and I feel like being different. Does the 80% kit not include sway bar set? I thought it did... Is the Serpent 10° blocks a near direct fit onto the X3?

Originally Posted by T-Hawk
Or go to Igt8.com
It is interesting that due to a difficulty at my bank I missed the special deal at NitroHouse on the 80%. This car looks like it has nearly everything I would need. I assume they take the 80% roller kit and build it into their "PRO" edition yah?
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Old 01-31-2015, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by evostyle
What's the reason for running the 43/13 transmission gearing vs the stock? I guess if I knew the stock transmission gearing I could figure it out.
Stock is 43/14. So essentially they are recommending we change the diff ratio from 3.07:1 to 3.30:1. This higher numerical ratio will gear the car "down" a little bit.

My thoughts here is the grunty .28 that comes in the RTR has the torque to push the car around great with the "higher" gear, but it runs out of breath quicker than the .21's that are the preference for racing so the 3.07 gear works well with that RTR style of engine.
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Old 02-01-2015, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by TeamCody
Stock is 43/14. So essentially they are recommending we change the diff ratio from 3.07:1 to 3.30:1. This higher numerical ratio will gear the car "down" a little bit.

My thoughts here is the grunty .28 that comes in the RTR has the torque to push the car around great with the "higher" gear, but it runs out of breath quicker than the .21's that are the preference for racing so the 3.07 gear works well with that RTR style of engine.
The deal at nitro house rotates between the buggy and the gt. Just keep checking and it will come around again
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Old 02-01-2015, 05:32 PM
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But as for the "PRO" kit, I believe it is the same as the RTR just without the engine or electronics. The gearing and tank and all are the same as the RTR version...
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:53 AM
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Yes the 80% is the same as the RTR - No different parts like the Serpent RTR.

The 43/13 gearing helps more in racing and yes that is with .21 vs .28 in the RTR. More top speed with the stock gearing, just no acceleration out of the corners.

You might also watch E-Bay as I have seen the 80% kit go for around $200, and the listing is from Nitro-House.

I'm working on a back up chassis, that I will put the Serpent 10 degree hubs on it. I've been told pretty easy, just have not done it.

I'll be at the Airtronics race in LA this weekend and know there will be many X3's running.
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:26 AM
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I run down at GLARC and the X3 is just as competitive as the Serpent when set up correctly. I run a serpent but give my 2 thumbs up to the x3 also since several guys are running it and winning with it. Plus customer service from OFNA is great. I buy stuff all the time from nitrohouse and they always run great specials. I am just glad to see the GT class growing and growing. I do more off road racing but love GT and it doesn't break the bank.
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:21 PM
  #508  
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Originally Posted by TeamCody
Stock is 43/14. So essentially they are recommending we change the diff ratio from 3.07:1 to 3.30:1. This higher numerical ratio will gear the car "down" a little bit.
After looking at the manual (OFNA x3 GT RTR) stock is 42/14. Not 43/14.

With a 42/14 the transmission ratio is 3. With the "upgrade" gear 43/13 from igt8.com the new ratio will be 3.307

This new higher gear ratio will basically "gear down" the car giving it quicker acceleration (which is better for a .21 with less torque than the stock .28) and let the car get on the pipe sooner.

So, why not just use a smaller pinion OR larger spur gear to get the same final drive ratio instead of going thru the costly expense of changing out the internal ratio?

Last edited by evostyle; 02-02-2015 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:41 PM
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Stock gearing (42/14 internal ratio of 3) with stock pinion and spur

1st 48/16 x 3 = FDR 9
2nd 44/20 x 3 = FDR 6.6

upgraded gearing from igt8 (43/13 internal ratio of 3.3) with stock pinion and spur

1st 48/16 x 3.3 = FDR 9.9
2nd 44/20 x 3.3 = FDR 7.26

Stock gearing (42/14 internal ratio of 3) with pinion and spur change

1st 49/15 x 3 = 9.8
2nd 46/19 x 3 = 7.26

At least going with just the pinion and spur change you would have more gearing available for different tracks. Of course I'm not sure if the spur and pinion combo would mesh ok. That may also limit the gear use 1st 49/15 and 2nd 46/19.
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Old 02-02-2015, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by evostyle
After looking at the manual (OFNA x3 GT RTR) stock is 42/14. Not 43/14.

With a 42/14 the transmission ratio is 3. With the "upgrade" gear 43/13 from igt8.com the new ratio will be 3.307

This new higher gear ratio will basically "gear down" the car giving it quicker acceleration (which is better for a .21 with less torque than the stock .28) and let the car get on the pipe sooner.

So, why not just use a smaller pinion OR larger spur gear to get the same final drive ratio instead of going thru the costly expense of changing out the internal ratio?
Would make sense if the rear drive shaft did not hit the engine case with small pinions. This car has a very free drive line due to less angle on the shafts, but leaves less room for everything. To get right ratios I was looking for 13t pinion and 50 tooth spur, but grooved a drive shaft with 14/49. Was easier to just change the gear boxes.
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