Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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I have a B4.2 had a C4.2 and was going to buy the B5. The B4.2 to C4.2 was a big difference because we are comparing mid to rear. I prefer mid. But comparing the C4.2 to the RB6 is harder because they are both mid motor and perform very well. So much of this has to do with tuning and setup but my experience was the RB6 is way more stable and easy to drive then the C4.2. Both are fast and mid in either car is faster then my b4.2. The C4.2 took a little test and tuning to get it running well. The RB6 was great the 2nd day i hit the track with it. Found a good setup much faster.
Tech Regular
Does anyone know of pin replacement tool and replacement pins for the RB6?
Tech Champion
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I have a B4.2 had a C4.2 and was going to buy the B5. The B4.2 to C4.2 was a big difference because we are comparing mid to rear. I prefer mid. But comparing the C4.2 to the RB6 is harder because they are both mid motor and perform very well. So much of this has to do with tuning and setup but my experience was the RB6 is way more stable and easy to drive then the C4.2. Both are fast and mid in either car is faster then my b4.2. The C4.2 took a little test and tuning to get it running well. The RB6 was great the 2nd day i hit the track with it. Found a good setup much faster.
Super Moderator
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Setup is
Pink springs front red rear
Front camber link 1mm washer inside 1mm outside inside middle hole
Steering reversed with 1 mm washer inside none outside
Rear camber link inside middle with 2mm washer outside outside hole 1mm washer
Ride hieght started out 23f 22r but I raised the rear a few turns throughout the night to help with the push. Hope that's not to confusing
Pink springs front red rear
Front camber link 1mm washer inside 1mm outside inside middle hole
Steering reversed with 1 mm washer inside none outside
Rear camber link inside middle with 2mm washer outside outside hole 1mm washer
Ride hieght started out 23f 22r but I raised the rear a few turns throughout the night to help with the push. Hope that's not to confusing
- Some things that I would look at is raise the rear ride height to be the same as the front.
- The next thing is I would measure the length of the front shock shafts when fully extended. If you can shorten this it would reduce the amount of lift it has on acceleration.
- You could also move your rear hubs back as this will reduce how far the motor is hanging back behind the motor.
- The other thing you could try is playing with anti-squat. I believe you could add a shim underneath the front suspension mount in the rear.
This will give you a list of things to try and I am sure others will either chime in or contradict what I have said above. At least you have some ideas on what to try. Good luck!
Tech Master
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I dont think the RB6 will do well at all in a loose outdoor setting. Our track when good is a solid medium grip track, sometimes might push a semi high grip track, but when its dry its miserable to drive, youd have to put so much weight in the back it wouldnt even be worth it. my car drives really well when we have a good water schedule but when we are at the tail end of the heats i might as well pull it off the track, i lose easily a lap and a half.
Weight is a big issue with all mid motors. I'm at about 1635 right now. The AE guys at my track that are running the new b5M are around 1680. For us, it seems like more weight equals more grip. The cars suspension can handle the extra weight with ease and since grip goes up, the lap times are going down.
Awesome kraig thanks for the reply
Tech Regular
Tech Master
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I'm looking at messing around with the rear anti squat and just wondering should I add 0.5mm shim to the RF hanger or take the 0.5mm shim out front the RR hanger?
Just wondering if either way is no different or the different ways has a slight difference. not that I am thinking it would but thought I would ask just in case
Just wondering if either way is no different or the different ways has a slight difference. not that I am thinking it would but thought I would ask just in case
Tech Master
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I fixed my on power push by adding some antisquat, the RR hanger should have a 1mm spacer between it and the motor guard, you can swap it for a .5 mm spacer or remove it for more antisquat. Gold rear springs could also cure it, I have pink front and gold rear on my rear motor car.
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Super Moderator
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I'm looking at messing around with the rear anti squat and just wondering should I add 0.5mm shim to the RF hanger or take the 0.5mm shim out front the RR hanger?
Just wondering if either way is no different or the different ways has a slight difference. not that I am thinking it would but thought I would ask just in case
Just wondering if either way is no different or the different ways has a slight difference. not that I am thinking it would but thought I would ask just in case
Tech Master
iTrader: (56)
I'm looking at messing around with the rear anti squat and just wondering should I add 0.5mm shim to the RF hanger or take the 0.5mm shim out front the RR hanger?
Just wondering if either way is no different or the different ways has a slight difference. not that I am thinking it would but thought I would ask just in case
Just wondering if either way is no different or the different ways has a slight difference. not that I am thinking it would but thought I would ask just in case
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Sorry guys forgot to say rear mount
I'm running the kit set up with 0.5mm shim.
I am looking for a bit more forward bite and better jumping so will start with increasing the anti squat
I agree with 1967rs gold rear springs are great.
I'm running the kit set up with 0.5mm shim.
I am looking for a bit more forward bite and better jumping so will start with increasing the anti squat
I agree with 1967rs gold rear springs are great.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
Read somewhere in this thread that the 6 can use AE spurs, is it true guys? I just want to confirm before i go get one. And I'm looking for more torque, what spur and pinion size do i go for?