Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
#2101
Tech Elite
I've never had an HPI/HB car before, but the D413 may very well change that, although I am Yokomo fanboy and my driving style does not suit 4WD at all - I am not trigger happy enough!
#2102
#2104
Tech Elite
If it is a metal to metal connection, I'd always use loctite.
#2108
Tech Rookie
When building the car, dremel out a little of the chassis behind the front hinge pins where the nyloc nut is, it's just a little close to the chassis. In a heavy knock the nut can hit the chassis and that's the last part you want to damage and have to replace.
#2110
Tech Addict
Refer to the setup sheet in the manual. On the left side of sheet there are charts that show all the resulting kickup and antisquat angles from the possible dot combinations.
#2111
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Anyone else get a pre-load spring collar that has a 'dimple' in it?
Mine looks to be 'pre' anodizing...
I was trying to thread it on and I thought it felt a little harder to do than the other one (this one was #2 I grabbed in the Bag-A-Fronts.)
Not a huge deal by any means, but because of the flat spot, when I threaded it on, it took a lot of the black anodized covering off of the shock's thread peaks.
Just wanted to share to make you guys aware, to make sure it's a 1-in-a-howevermany... rather than each kit having one~
I had a long night and got to Bag D, and sanded/sealed the edges~
I used 1.3 pistions, with 35wt TLR oil both front and rear.
I ended up using 20k for the front, and 7k in the rear from Team Associated, and went with the stock 100k for the center.
Nice touch on the diagrams in the manual for all the links T.D! It was really easy to do compared to a few other kits I've built.
Mine looks to be 'pre' anodizing...
I was trying to thread it on and I thought it felt a little harder to do than the other one (this one was #2 I grabbed in the Bag-A-Fronts.)
Not a huge deal by any means, but because of the flat spot, when I threaded it on, it took a lot of the black anodized covering off of the shock's thread peaks.
Just wanted to share to make you guys aware, to make sure it's a 1-in-a-howevermany... rather than each kit having one~
I had a long night and got to Bag D, and sanded/sealed the edges~
I used 1.3 pistions, with 35wt TLR oil both front and rear.
I ended up using 20k for the front, and 7k in the rear from Team Associated, and went with the stock 100k for the center.
Nice touch on the diagrams in the manual for all the links T.D! It was really easy to do compared to a few other kits I've built.
#2113
For the same angle of kick-up or anti-squat, a shorter or longer mount will allow you to change the roll center.
#2115
Raising the lower pin mounts (less dots) would raise the roll center. This is the opposite of the upper links changes where if you raise the inner ball it will lower the roll center. And vise - versa to lower roll centers. This has been something I've had to relearn over the years. What helped me the most lately has been a smart phone app by Martin Crisp (aimed at sedan racing) but mirrors the Hudy set-up guide I have trusted for a long while. The only things the app or guide doesn't cover is jumping. All else is the same physics, including full scale cares.