Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
#9601
Tech Rookie
Rear Hub loose
I cannot remember if there was space between the rear hubs and the arms. I have significant slop now forward and back on the rear hub. Is this normal.
Thanks,
Thanks,
#9602
Tech Apprentice
Hey guys!
I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
#9603
Looks... like he still has to install a couple components. Easy for the car to look clean without an ESC or receiver. Also, I doubt he should run those front spring cups.
Does the instruction manual show a spacer?
The one downfall of the durable arms is that to be that durable, they have to be soft. Your arms have probably stretched some, especially if you do a lot of durability testing. Also, because the arms do last so long, they have plenty of time to deform. You can add some shims to take out the play, or try some new arms.
Well, if the outdrives are worn, they could cause binding. Are your outdrives worn? How worn are your driveshafts? If you notice your car seems to randomly spin out sometimes, and your drive train has weird binding, that is likely why. Although, if you run on high bite carpet, you mat not notice it on track.
Ultimately, this is why 4wd buggies are still for people that are good at maintaining their stuff. Three times the drive train of a 2wd buggy is still three times the work (and three times the cost) to keep properly maintained.
The one downfall of the durable arms is that to be that durable, they have to be soft. Your arms have probably stretched some, especially if you do a lot of durability testing. Also, because the arms do last so long, they have plenty of time to deform. You can add some shims to take out the play, or try some new arms.
Hey guys!
I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
Ultimately, this is why 4wd buggies are still for people that are good at maintaining their stuff. Three times the drive train of a 2wd buggy is still three times the work (and three times the cost) to keep properly maintained.
#9604
Tech Apprentice
Looks... like he still has to install a couple components. Easy for the car to look clean without an ESC or receiver. Also, I doubt he should run those front spring cups.
Does the instruction manual show a spacer?
The one downfall of the durable arms is that to be that durable, they have to be soft. Your arms have probably stretched some, especially if you do a lot of durability testing. Also, because the arms do last so long, they have plenty of time to deform. You can add some shims to take out the play, or try some new arms.
Well, if the outdrives are worn, they could cause binding. Are your outdrives worn? How worn are your driveshafts? If you notice your car seems to randomly spin out sometimes, and your drive train has weird binding, that is likely why. Although, if you run on high bite carpet, you mat not notice it on track.
Ultimately, this is why 4wd buggies are still for people that are good at maintaining their stuff. Three times the drive train of a 2wd buggy is still three times the work (and three times the cost) to keep properly maintained.
Does the instruction manual show a spacer?
The one downfall of the durable arms is that to be that durable, they have to be soft. Your arms have probably stretched some, especially if you do a lot of durability testing. Also, because the arms do last so long, they have plenty of time to deform. You can add some shims to take out the play, or try some new arms.
Well, if the outdrives are worn, they could cause binding. Are your outdrives worn? How worn are your driveshafts? If you notice your car seems to randomly spin out sometimes, and your drive train has weird binding, that is likely why. Although, if you run on high bite carpet, you mat not notice it on track.
Ultimately, this is why 4wd buggies are still for people that are good at maintaining their stuff. Three times the drive train of a 2wd buggy is still three times the work (and three times the cost) to keep properly maintained.
Well my outdrives are worn in the way that the Black coating is nearly off now. But i think i found the problem: i guess it binds in the diff case side because the Diff case itself is worn, i noticed a significant amount of tiny plastic on one outdrive. I will replace the diff case and go from there..
#9605
You are absolutely right, it takes way more time and effort to keep a 4WD in good condition.
Well my outdrives are worn in the way that the Black coating is nearly off now. But i think i found the problem: i guess it binds in the diff case side because the Diff case itself is worn, i noticed a significant amount of tiny plastic on one outdrive. I will replace the diff case and go from there..
Well my outdrives are worn in the way that the Black coating is nearly off now. But i think i found the problem: i guess it binds in the diff case side because the Diff case itself is worn, i noticed a significant amount of tiny plastic on one outdrive. I will replace the diff case and go from there..
Something is definitely not right though. Check to make sure the bearings are smooth, and that the shims are right. Should be fairly simple to figure out once you have it apart.
#9606
Tech Apprentice
Well, it doesn't sound like your outdrives are bad. I was thinking they might have had massive notches.
Something is definitely not right though. Check to make sure the bearings are smooth, and that the shims are right. Should be fairly simple to figure out once you have it apart.
Something is definitely not right though. Check to make sure the bearings are smooth, and that the shims are right. Should be fairly simple to figure out once you have it apart.
#9607
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
You are absolutely right, it takes way more time and effort to keep a 4WD in good condition.
Well my outdrives are worn in the way that the Black coating is nearly off now. But i think i found the problem: i guess it binds in the diff case side because the Diff case itself is worn, i noticed a significant amount of tiny plastic on one outdrive. I will replace the diff case and go from there..
Well my outdrives are worn in the way that the Black coating is nearly off now. But i think i found the problem: i guess it binds in the diff case side because the Diff case itself is worn, i noticed a significant amount of tiny plastic on one outdrive. I will replace the diff case and go from there..
#9608
I removed all slop from mine. Absolutely zero slop left. This is what you need to do.
Buy some Xray 8mm ball ends (XRA362651) 12 pieces , - 8 : Front - 2 : rear - 2 : servo. Bushings - 4 pieces. XRA362290. 2 for the steering blocks and 2 for the Ackerman. These parts are 0.1mm larger then HB.
The bushings fit very tight in the ackerman, but dont worry it works great.
You also need some 1-2mm shims, because the XB4 ball ends are a little shorter, so if you put a 2mm shim on the steering ball you have 6mm like HB
To begin with it all is a little tight, but it will loosen up after a few hours.
When i drop mine, the sound it makes when it lands is niiiice. Dosnīt sound like dropping a bag of empty cans anymore, more like a BMW door closing.
I felt the car became a little more responsive, but also a little more predictable. I also think the slop is positive when it comes to durability. I prefer zero slop. F....... hate slop.
Enjoy
Forgot. Also put a 5x7x0,2mm (or 0,1mm) shim behind the Hex hubs. No more slop, and no more pins falling out
Buy some Xray 8mm ball ends (XRA362651) 12 pieces , - 8 : Front - 2 : rear - 2 : servo. Bushings - 4 pieces. XRA362290. 2 for the steering blocks and 2 for the Ackerman. These parts are 0.1mm larger then HB.
The bushings fit very tight in the ackerman, but dont worry it works great.
You also need some 1-2mm shims, because the XB4 ball ends are a little shorter, so if you put a 2mm shim on the steering ball you have 6mm like HB
To begin with it all is a little tight, but it will loosen up after a few hours.
When i drop mine, the sound it makes when it lands is niiiice. Dosnīt sound like dropping a bag of empty cans anymore, more like a BMW door closing.
I felt the car became a little more responsive, but also a little more predictable. I also think the slop is positive when it comes to durability. I prefer zero slop. F....... hate slop.
Enjoy
Forgot. Also put a 5x7x0,2mm (or 0,1mm) shim behind the Hex hubs. No more slop, and no more pins falling out
#9609
Tech Adept
iTrader: (20)
Hey guys!
I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
#9611
Hey guys!
I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
#9613
#9614
The upgrade did take the slop out but the ball cups were tight a popped off easily if I even tapped anything until they broke in. Probably should use the Xray cups also. Has anyone used the Xray cups? Part #. Thanks
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1438543883
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1438543883
Last edited by bladeys; 03-12-2020 at 02:12 PM.
#9615