Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy >

Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree66Likes

Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-27-2015, 10:36 PM
  #9601  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 12
Default Rear Hub loose

I cannot remember if there was space between the rear hubs and the arms. I have significant slop now forward and back on the rear hub. Is this normal.

Thanks,
Cuffer is offline  
Old 07-27-2015, 11:14 PM
  #9602  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 74
Default

Hey guys!

I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
Egress is offline  
Old 07-28-2015, 02:27 AM
  #9603  
Suspended
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 398
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nitro2be
Looks clean
Looks... like he still has to install a couple components. Easy for the car to look clean without an ESC or receiver. Also, I doubt he should run those front spring cups.

Originally Posted by Cuffer
I cannot remember if there was space between the rear hubs and the arms. I have significant slop now forward and back on the rear hub. Is this normal.

Thanks,
Does the instruction manual show a spacer?

The one downfall of the durable arms is that to be that durable, they have to be soft. Your arms have probably stretched some, especially if you do a lot of durability testing. Also, because the arms do last so long, they have plenty of time to deform. You can add some shims to take out the play, or try some new arms.

Originally Posted by Egress
Hey guys!

I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
Well, if the outdrives are worn, they could cause binding. Are your outdrives worn? How worn are your driveshafts? If you notice your car seems to randomly spin out sometimes, and your drive train has weird binding, that is likely why. Although, if you run on high bite carpet, you mat not notice it on track.

Ultimately, this is why 4wd buggies are still for people that are good at maintaining their stuff. Three times the drive train of a 2wd buggy is still three times the work (and three times the cost) to keep properly maintained.
Mantis Toboggan is offline  
Old 07-28-2015, 02:53 AM
  #9604  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 74
Default

Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan
Looks... like he still has to install a couple components. Easy for the car to look clean without an ESC or receiver. Also, I doubt he should run those front spring cups.



Does the instruction manual show a spacer?

The one downfall of the durable arms is that to be that durable, they have to be soft. Your arms have probably stretched some, especially if you do a lot of durability testing. Also, because the arms do last so long, they have plenty of time to deform. You can add some shims to take out the play, or try some new arms.



Well, if the outdrives are worn, they could cause binding. Are your outdrives worn? How worn are your driveshafts? If you notice your car seems to randomly spin out sometimes, and your drive train has weird binding, that is likely why. Although, if you run on high bite carpet, you mat not notice it on track.

Ultimately, this is why 4wd buggies are still for people that are good at maintaining their stuff. Three times the drive train of a 2wd buggy is still three times the work (and three times the cost) to keep properly maintained.
You are absolutely right, it takes way more time and effort to keep a 4WD in good condition.
Well my outdrives are worn in the way that the Black coating is nearly off now. But i think i found the problem: i guess it binds in the diff case side because the Diff case itself is worn, i noticed a significant amount of tiny plastic on one outdrive. I will replace the diff case and go from there..
Egress is offline  
Old 07-28-2015, 03:08 AM
  #9605  
Suspended
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 398
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Egress
You are absolutely right, it takes way more time and effort to keep a 4WD in good condition.
Well my outdrives are worn in the way that the Black coating is nearly off now. But i think i found the problem: i guess it binds in the diff case side because the Diff case itself is worn, i noticed a significant amount of tiny plastic on one outdrive. I will replace the diff case and go from there..
Well, it doesn't sound like your outdrives are bad. I was thinking they might have had massive notches.

Something is definitely not right though. Check to make sure the bearings are smooth, and that the shims are right. Should be fairly simple to figure out once you have it apart.
Mantis Toboggan is offline  
Old 07-28-2015, 07:13 AM
  #9606  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 93
Default

Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan
Well, it doesn't sound like your outdrives are bad. I was thinking they might have had massive notches.

Something is definitely not right though. Check to make sure the bearings are smooth, and that the shims are right. Should be fairly simple to figure out once you have it apart.
Yea a bearing thats binding could heat up and distort the diff case. I've also noticed not to over tighten the diff housing screws where the two halves bolt together, this can cause some slight binding as well.
Apexracing is offline  
Old 07-28-2015, 12:54 PM
  #9607  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
nitro2be's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Corona CA.
Posts: 544
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Egress
You are absolutely right, it takes way more time and effort to keep a 4WD in good condition.
Well my outdrives are worn in the way that the Black coating is nearly off now. But i think i found the problem: i guess it binds in the diff case side because the Diff case itself is worn, i noticed a significant amount of tiny plastic on one outdrive. I will replace the diff case and go from there..
I had exact same thing and your right, diff case. I just back rear arm screw off 1/4 turn and clacking binding gone.
nitro2be is offline  
Old 07-28-2015, 01:37 PM
  #9608  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 262
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ColourGhost
I removed all slop from mine. Absolutely zero slop left. This is what you need to do.
Buy some Xray 8mm ball ends (XRA362651) 12 pieces , - 8 : Front - 2 : rear - 2 : servo. Bushings - 4 pieces. XRA362290. 2 for the steering blocks and 2 for the Ackerman. These parts are 0.1mm larger then HB.
The bushings fit very tight in the ackerman, but dont worry it works great.
You also need some 1-2mm shims, because the XB4 ball ends are a little shorter, so if you put a 2mm shim on the steering ball you have 6mm like HB
To begin with it all is a little tight, but it will loosen up after a few hours.
When i drop mine, the sound it makes when it lands is niiiice. Dosnīt sound like dropping a bag of empty cans anymore, more like a BMW door closing.
I felt the car became a little more responsive, but also a little more predictable. I also think the slop is positive when it comes to durability. I prefer zero slop. F....... hate slop.

Enjoy

Forgot. Also put a 5x7x0,2mm (or 0,1mm) shim behind the Hex hubs. No more slop, and no more pins falling out
Thank you for sharing this upgrade it is remarkable.
bladeys is offline  
Old 07-28-2015, 01:43 PM
  #9609  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (20)
 
Lexicus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 108
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Egress
Hey guys!

I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
I had a similar problem on my rear diff. Ended up being the outdrive on the gear end of the diff. It must have got wet at some point because it has a small amount of surface rust on it, when I cleaned it off the diff is like butter. You can tell if this is happening on your car by simply spinning one of your tires, it should move freely with no stick or bind.
Lexicus is offline  
Old 07-29-2015, 03:41 AM
  #9610  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (27)
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: PICTON N.SW. AUSTRALIA
Posts: 95
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Motorman007
Can I get a part number to make sure
Sorry for the late reply,started a new apartment block build and there isn't enough hours in the day anyway part HPIZ087.
buster44 is offline  
Old 07-29-2015, 06:50 PM
  #9611  
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 46
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Egress
Hey guys!

I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
I had similar problem with my original D413. I swore that it was dif related but I noticed if I loosened the wheels it went away. Come to find out, the stock plastic crush tubes actually crushed and because their thickness was reduced it caused the front wheel bearings to go bad. After that, I have been sanding down B5m aluminum front crush tubes and I've never had that problem again. Its worth looking at.
iiweeldman is offline  
Old 07-31-2015, 06:58 AM
  #9612  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 2,035
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

I see a lot of setups have more shims in the front rear suspension holder then the front front, what effect does that have on the car?
Speedychris22 is offline  
Old 07-31-2015, 07:24 AM
  #9613  
Suspended
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 398
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Speedychris22
I see a lot of setups have more shims in the front rear suspension holder then the front front, what effect does that have on the car?
Google "Tekno RC arm sweep". The very first thing that comes up is a PDF file that explains exactly what it does.
Mantis Toboggan is offline  
Old 08-02-2015, 08:15 AM
  #9614  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 262
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

The upgrade did take the slop out but the ball cups were tight a popped off easily if I even tapped anything until they broke in. Probably should use the Xray cups also. Has anyone used the Xray cups? Part #. Thanks
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1438543883

Last edited by bladeys; 03-12-2020 at 02:12 PM.
bladeys is offline  
Old 08-02-2015, 12:23 PM
  #9615  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 262
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bladeys
Thank you for sharing this upgrade it is remarkable.
The upgrade did take the slop out but the ball cups were tight a popped off easily if I even tapped anything until they broke in. Probably should use the Xray cups also. Has anyone used the Xray cups? Part #. Thanks
bladeys is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.