i.a.s

I can see why AE cant make 1 last upgrade for the TC4 for all us guys that still bettle on with this great car its the only area in my mind that is lacking please make a steering upgrade for us.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Ok, these are a few pics of the rear of my tub car with the shocks swapped around. Looks close, but nothing rubs. Those arent AE white springs... they are XRAY springs. Blue front and white rear worked well. Im making some graphite inner ballstud mounts to place the turnbuckle more inline with the rear hub... it has a bit of an angle to it. This will also move the turnbuckle further away from the shock. The car felt decent, considering i havent been on the track for sometime now... its a little aggressive mid corner... but the diffs/shocks havent been built since i shoved it in a box months ago... im sure with a little work it will be on pace for competitive 19T... in three packs time it was already close to current lap times. The greatest thing?? Tub style protection for the local hacks!!

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Well, i got bit by the RC bug again... it started out by wheeling a close friends Serpent 960 1/8th at 301 in MD. OMFG!! That car rules asphalt!! 2nd gear and full throttle gives a SOLID pucker factor of 8!! Are you guys running 1/12 scale in Frederick?? Its picking up here so it seems...

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Yes they are running 1/12th. They get from 4 to 10 of those things every week. ALot of guys are getting into them right now. I never cared for them and just got back into running touring again and especially since I know Schumacher will have a new car coming out after the 1st of the year.

Section 8

T4 FT newb question.

Whats the best way to get the motor in and out? So far I got essentially taking it apart, or loosening the rear suspension and taking off the suspension arm, but that doesn't always do it.

I suppose that a ball driver is the essential tool?

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

a 2.5mm ball hex driver is a must... thats why the ball end L-wrench is included with the kit but a handled one will be even better...

you can get to the screws by using the ball end wrench above the cvd for the top screw an below for the bottom screw... once the screws are out you can swing the motor out endbell first... small pinions can come off with the motor or if you arent running standoffs... if you run the standoffs and are using a large pinion, then you need to loosen the pinion before removing the motor so the pinion pops off when the motor comes out.

to get the motor back in just reverse the steps... angle the motor in, the use the ball driver to put the top screw in a few turns... balance the bottom screw on the ball end wrench (w/right hand) and put it through the suspension under the cvd, use the pointer of your left hand to guide the screw to the bottom slot of the motor mount and keep the screw flush against the mount once its on, use the left hand to locate the hole on the motor and there you go... if the pinion is large swing the motor all the way out and slightly tighten one of the mount screws, use a pair of pliers to slide the pinion over and tighten... then adjust the mesh and tighten...

hope this helps =p...

Section 8

Thanks.

I bought it used, so I dont have the experiance of building the kit (or the kit tools). Looks like I'll be getting a ball driver.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Hudy makes a great plastic handled/steel shaft ball driver for round 10$. If you pick up some steel motor screws, then you can magnetize the ball driver to hold your screws, and have alot less trouble getting your motor in.

Mike Schumacher

iTrader: (37)

DaveW,

Can you show some pictures of your TC4 with custom upper deck + rear suspension modifications? It must be very pretty.

Rian-S

iTrader: (9)

have you noticed much difference with the car after doing this? and do the droop screws still contact the chassis properly? and what do you do if you want to use sway bars ? im very interested in tc4 chassis mods..

Rian-S

iTrader: (9)

does Warpspeed have a website? i've tried google but couldnt find it..

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

The droop screws still hit the raised rib... but not the dimple (on the chassis), that is there for the droop screw. The problem is being able to adjust them once the car is back together... since i never use the rear droop screws, it wasnt an issue for me. As far as a rear sway bar, again, i havent used one of those in a LONG time... im pretty sure the last time i used a rear bar was at the Snowbirds. I havent been back to the rug since i took/posted the pix to try any changes, but the car was decent... the best the tub car (overall, that is... it still needed a rebuild and some tweaking) ever felt to me. The real test would be as the race day went by, and the grip came up, if the car would get better or get worse... usually the tub car gets worse the more grip there is. Im still working on the inner ballstud mounts... been too busy working on my 1:1 car to finish that little project...

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Last i heard they closed shop...? Anyone know any different?

RCpurplecow

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know if AE is still gonna make the TC4 when the TC5 comes out? I know they stopped making the TC3, but since the TC4 and TC5 are completely different cars, do you think they'll still continue making the TC4?

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

If they follow past habit, they would still maintain parts support for some time after, but would not sell it as a kit.