333LikesXray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
05-04-2019, 06:44 PM - Wikipost
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08-05-2016, 06:17 AM
#3496
This is a stupid question but ride height is set by using the downstop shim in the shocks? Is that correct? or is it by using the spring tension nut and rod end adjustment too? I am just going thru a setup sheet off the petite site and in the rear they have the shock length at 32 (which only makes the rod end screwed half way onto the threads of the shaft) then they use 3mm up stop shims and 0 inside the shock. The ride height is 17mm but I can't get the height that low even if I unscrew the spring tensioner nut on the shock all the way. And when I do that the car has very little rebound. What am I doing wrong?
I am also wondering what is the point of using upstop shims? Why not just use no shims and screw the rod end on more? With this setup I am trying the rod end is only screwed half way on then there is 3mm of shims which basically covers the rest of the threads on the shaft. I know there is a reason for doing it like that but what is it? droop maybe?
I am also wondering what is the point of using upstop shims? Why not just use no shims and screw the rod end on more? With this setup I am trying the rod end is only screwed half way on then there is 3mm of shims which basically covers the rest of the threads on the shaft. I know there is a reason for doing it like that but what is it? droop maybe?
08-05-2016, 07:31 AM
#3497
Longer rod ends are common on this car. I posted the part numbers to the Kyosho ends. Also look at the wiki.
Preload is what's used to change ride height.
Preload is what's used to change ride height.
08-05-2016, 12:08 PM
#3498
Upstop shims prevent the shock from compressing too far. It's to prevent the dogbone from hitting the diff outdrive, damaging it, or binding. Compress the shocks. If the bone hits the outdrive add more upstop shims. General consensus is the xb2 lacks rear droop. Most put no downstop liniters in the shock and 3mm upstop shims.
08-07-2016, 06:31 AM
#3499
So ran my CE yesterday for the first time on our high bite tight turf track. Man this thing is a dump truck. I was having to come into the corner and try to lock up the rear tires to get it to turn in on entry and even as it went through the corner it just kept pushing. I have checked and I am getting the full steering throw on both sides, I originally had the TLR metal horn on my servo from my previous car and left it on for my CE thinking it would be fine but it did not have nearly enough throw to get it to the locks on either side. I fixed that before it even got to the track
So far ive done the following to deviate from the box stock setup:
-Shortened the front camber link to the inside hole on the tower
-took out the 2mm spacer on the hub side of the steering link
-raised the front hub by switching the bushings around
-battery weight
I am running 18mm ride height all around which seems pretty good, its just the car doesnt have enought steering throughout the entire corner from start to finish. I am going to get the brass front arm mount, but do you guys have any other suggestions? The car is also a little unsettled on one of the landers, and if it gets unsettled when I go to turn right after the lander the car immediately traction rolls. Only happens every once in a while if I overshoot it by a hair, I think the longer shock ends would help with this.
What say all you guru's?
So far ive done the following to deviate from the box stock setup:
-Shortened the front camber link to the inside hole on the tower
-took out the 2mm spacer on the hub side of the steering link
-raised the front hub by switching the bushings around
-battery weight
I am running 18mm ride height all around which seems pretty good, its just the car doesnt have enought steering throughout the entire corner from start to finish. I am going to get the brass front arm mount, but do you guys have any other suggestions? The car is also a little unsettled on one of the landers, and if it gets unsettled when I go to turn right after the lander the car immediately traction rolls. Only happens every once in a while if I overshoot it by a hair, I think the longer shock ends would help with this.
What say all you guru's?
08-07-2016, 12:59 PM
#3500
Personally I work on the opposite end than I am having issues with, so in this case I would take away some rear traction at corner entry/mid corner.
More rear drop
less rear toe
raise rear roll center
heaver diff oil
rear tires
stiffer rear springs
rear roll bar
on the front I would;
softer spring
more ackerman
more camber gain
more static camber
lower roll center
More rear drop
less rear toe
raise rear roll center
heaver diff oil
rear tires
stiffer rear springs
rear roll bar
on the front I would;
softer spring
more ackerman
more camber gain
more static camber
lower roll center
08-07-2016, 02:27 PM
#3502
Did you check to see if your kickup plate was upside down? Or something reversed in the steering rack?does it have less steering than your former DE? I could not get my CE to have less steering than my DE if I tried so something had to be installed incorrectly or broken IMO.
So ran my CE yesterday for the first time on our high bite tight turf track. Man this thing is a dump truck. I was having to come into the corner and try to lock up the rear tires to get it to turn in on entry and even as it went through the corner it just kept pushing. I have checked and I am getting the full steering throw on both sides, I originally had the TLR metal horn on my servo from my previous car and left it on for my CE thinking it would be fine but it did not have nearly enough throw to get it to the locks on either side. I fixed that before it even got to the track
So far ive done the following to deviate from the box stock setup:
-Shortened the front camber link to the inside hole on the tower
-took out the 2mm spacer on the hub side of the steering link
-raised the front hub by switching the bushings around
-battery weight
I am running 18mm ride height all around which seems pretty good, its just the car doesnt have enought steering throughout the entire corner from start to finish. I am going to get the brass front arm mount, but do you guys have any other suggestions? The car is also a little unsettled on one of the landers, and if it gets unsettled when I go to turn right after the lander the car immediately traction rolls. Only happens every once in a while if I overshoot it by a hair, I think the longer shock ends would help with this.
What say all you guru's?
So far ive done the following to deviate from the box stock setup:
-Shortened the front camber link to the inside hole on the tower
-took out the 2mm spacer on the hub side of the steering link
-raised the front hub by switching the bushings around
-battery weight
I am running 18mm ride height all around which seems pretty good, its just the car doesnt have enought steering throughout the entire corner from start to finish. I am going to get the brass front arm mount, but do you guys have any other suggestions? The car is also a little unsettled on one of the landers, and if it gets unsettled when I go to turn right after the lander the car immediately traction rolls. Only happens every once in a while if I overshoot it by a hair, I think the longer shock ends would help with this.
What say all you guru's?
08-07-2016, 07:36 PM
#3503
Personally I work on the opposite end than I am having issues with, so in this case I would take away some rear traction at corner entry/mid corner.
More rear drop
less rear toe
raise rear roll center
heaver diff oil
rear tires
stiffer rear springs
rear roll bar
on the front I would;
softer spring
more ackerman
more camber gain
more static camber
lower roll center
More rear drop
less rear toe
raise rear roll center
heaver diff oil
rear tires
stiffer rear springs
rear roll bar
on the front I would;
softer spring
more ackerman
more camber gain
more static camber
lower roll center
08-07-2016, 07:37 PM
#3504
Did you check to see if your kickup plate was upside down? Or something reversed in the steering rack?does it have less steering than your former DE? I could not get my CE to have less steering than my DE if I tried so something had to be installed incorrectly or broken IMO.
08-07-2016, 07:48 PM
#3505
It's easy to install the wrong way. I did on my DE at first. In any event, the way I have my CE setup for max rear traction made my DE really slow cornering/rotating when setup the same way (laying down rear shock, etc.). But, have no issues with my carpet car in the same setup. Also have 4 degrees toe and have tried 0-3 Dev anti squat. I have no issues with cornering and know I can get more steering out of the car if I sacrifice grip/traction (but don't because I'm on med grip clay at times). With the dirt car I added 25 grams sticky weight on the servo, stood up the rear shock more, and I had the 1 slot Ackerman plates to combat the push. Haven't done any of this in the carpet car. . Let us know what you find. Btw - also running the short links..Thx
I tried my DE once on the turf but didnt run it much, it wanted to traction roll a bit and was really soft compared to how my CE feels out of the box. I havnt checked, but im pretty sure everything is right up front, but I will go through and double check that when I install the brass front weight
08-09-2016, 08:03 AM
#3506
I am going to go ahead and change out the steering carbon plates for the 0 slot plates which should make the steering more aggressive, as well as add the 23/29 brass weight, and go from the stock 4 degrees of rear toe down to about 2. I also am thinking of maybe trying out a different set of tires which arent as locked in
08-09-2016, 06:50 PM
#3508
When is the rear motor from xray supposed to be released. It was a big selling point for me
08-09-2016, 06:55 PM
#3509
