Schumacher Mi4
#3421
Tech Addict
martin,
i tried to shim up the steering with the long posts, but the bulkhead was in the way. did you remove that part of the bulkhead to make the 2 tall posts fit? i used 3 mm tall shims on each side instead, and flipped the steering assembly over like you described. Also, is the Corrally motor good for non-boosted 17.5 stock racing? if it is, and if it is ROAR approved, it my be something i want to use at the REEDY Race this year.
thank you,
rich
i tried to shim up the steering with the long posts, but the bulkhead was in the way. did you remove that part of the bulkhead to make the 2 tall posts fit? i used 3 mm tall shims on each side instead, and flipped the steering assembly over like you described. Also, is the Corrally motor good for non-boosted 17.5 stock racing? if it is, and if it is ROAR approved, it my be something i want to use at the REEDY Race this year.
thank you,
rich
#3422
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
i built the ball diff and followed the manual and Chris Grainger's video to tighten it until the cone washer flatten.
Now, the diff feels like there are notches when I turn them. Did I damaged the diff by over tighten it until the balls notched the plates?
Should I rebuilt with new plates?
I loosen the diff and the 'notch' feeling goes away... its there only when the diff is quite tight.
Now, the diff feels like there are notches when I turn them. Did I damaged the diff by over tighten it until the balls notched the plates?
Should I rebuilt with new plates?
I loosen the diff and the 'notch' feeling goes away... its there only when the diff is quite tight.
#3423
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
i built the ball diff and followed the manual and Chris Grainger's video to tighten it until the cone washer flatten.
Now, the diff feels like there are notches when I turn them. Did I damaged the diff by over tighten it until the balls notched the plates?
Should I rebuilt with new plates?
I loosen the diff and the 'notch' feeling goes away... its there only when the diff is quite tight.
Now, the diff feels like there are notches when I turn them. Did I damaged the diff by over tighten it until the balls notched the plates?
Should I rebuilt with new plates?
I loosen the diff and the 'notch' feeling goes away... its there only when the diff is quite tight.
you should be able to re-use...might need to rebuild and examine...
Did you sand/polish the plates (with very fine grit sand paper). this will make a huge difference for the quality of the diff.
once together...build up then install in car..
put car on a stand...and hold one wheel and break the diff in..a few minutes each side..this should help the diff ball seat into the plate...should score the plate slightly.
Run the car under load...then recheck diff.
With the Schumacher diffs ..make sure to install the set/locking screw correctly.
should last for quite a while after that.
#3424
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
You only want the diff as tight as it needs to be to avoid slipping. I'm definitely not a ball diff expert, and will probably never go back to one since I have gear diffs now.
The suggestion I got from a fellow/former Schui driver who is handy with the wrenches, was to tighten it slowly, and check for slip gently(!) as you tighten it, and only tighten it until it stops slipping.
The only good ball diff I've ever had is the one that came in a used Mi4 I bought. It was extremely free with zero slip for about a year until it started getting crunchy. I've never been able to build one that well. That's why I jumped on the gear diffs and never looked back.
-Mike
EDIT: Josh Cyrul made an interesting post on diff building in the CEFX 2011 thread within the last few weeks. I think it was in relation to 1/12 scale, but a good diff is even more important there, so I'd think it could apply to TC's as well. I don't remember the particulars, but I do remember it seemed pretty backwards from most advice I've heard, involving intentionally scoring the rings.
EDIT2: This post: http://www.rctech.net/forum/10332547-post504.html
The suggestion I got from a fellow/former Schui driver who is handy with the wrenches, was to tighten it slowly, and check for slip gently(!) as you tighten it, and only tighten it until it stops slipping.
The only good ball diff I've ever had is the one that came in a used Mi4 I bought. It was extremely free with zero slip for about a year until it started getting crunchy. I've never been able to build one that well. That's why I jumped on the gear diffs and never looked back.
-Mike
EDIT: Josh Cyrul made an interesting post on diff building in the CEFX 2011 thread within the last few weeks. I think it was in relation to 1/12 scale, but a good diff is even more important there, so I'd think it could apply to TC's as well. I don't remember the particulars, but I do remember it seemed pretty backwards from most advice I've heard, involving intentionally scoring the rings.
EDIT2: This post: http://www.rctech.net/forum/10332547-post504.html
Last edited by grippgoat; 03-20-2012 at 09:33 PM.
#3425
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
= I don't remember the particulars, but I do remember it seemed pretty backwards from most advice I've heard, involving intentionally scoring the rings.
EDIT2: This post: http://www.rctech.net/forum/10332547-post504.html
EDIT2: This post: http://www.rctech.net/forum/10332547-post504.html
once the diff balls aligned correctly it will make the smoother and last longer.
I have been trying two cars 1 with a gear diff
other with a diff.
the Diff actual feels the most neutral...the gear diff can get a little aggressive.
but I have been utilizing the Gear diff at this point due to ease of maintenance.
#3426
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Diff should not be overtightened...ever...
you should be able to re-use...might need to rebuild and examine...
Did you sand/polish the plates (with very fine grit sand paper). this will make a huge difference for the quality of the diff.
once together...build up then install in car..
put car on a stand...and hold one wheel and break the diff in..a few minutes each side..this should help the diff ball seat into the plate...should score the plate slightly.
Run the car under load...then recheck diff.
With the Schumacher diffs ..make sure to install the set/locking screw correctly.
should last for quite a while after that.
you should be able to re-use...might need to rebuild and examine...
Did you sand/polish the plates (with very fine grit sand paper). this will make a huge difference for the quality of the diff.
once together...build up then install in car..
put car on a stand...and hold one wheel and break the diff in..a few minutes each side..this should help the diff ball seat into the plate...should score the plate slightly.
Run the car under load...then recheck diff.
With the Schumacher diffs ..make sure to install the set/locking screw correctly.
should last for quite a while after that.
Is there diff covers to 'seal' the diff to prevent dirt? I run in quite dusty tracks...
Im new to Schumacher cars...
#3427
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
The Schumacher gear diff is made by Spec R, the bonus is that the
gear diff comes with upgrade carbon gears...very nice fit....mine has been leak proof since day one...just follow the build guide.
#3428
martin,
i tried to shim up the steering with the long posts, but the bulkhead was in the way. did you remove that part of the bulkhead to make the 2 tall posts fit? i used 3 mm tall shims on each side instead, and flipped the steering assembly over like you described. Also, is the Corrally motor good for non-boosted 17.5 stock racing? if it is, and if it is ROAR approved, it my be something i want to use at the REEDY Race this year.
thank you,
rich
i tried to shim up the steering with the long posts, but the bulkhead was in the way. did you remove that part of the bulkhead to make the 2 tall posts fit? i used 3 mm tall shims on each side instead, and flipped the steering assembly over like you described. Also, is the Corrally motor good for non-boosted 17.5 stock racing? if it is, and if it is ROAR approved, it my be something i want to use at the REEDY Race this year.
thank you,
rich
the corally motor will never on earth be roar legal. Roar and Efra have similar rotor rules as far as I know and the corally motor breaks every one of them :-)
#3429
Tech Addict
if you want to mount the steering on posts instead of on the bulkhead you obviously need to get rid of the bulkhead bits the plate mounts to as per kit.
the corally motor will never on earth be roar legal. Roar and Efra have similar rotor rules as far as I know and the corally motor breaks every one of them :-)
the corally motor will never on earth be roar legal. Roar and Efra have similar rotor rules as far as I know and the corally motor breaks every one of them :-)
thank you for the quick response
#3430
Tech Elite
iTrader: (114)
i built the ball diff and followed the manual and Chris Grainger's video to tighten it until the cone washer flatten.
Now, the diff feels like there are notches when I turn them. Did I damaged the diff by over tighten it until the balls notched the plates?
Should I rebuilt with new plates?
I loosen the diff and the 'notch' feeling goes away... its there only when the diff is quite tight.
Now, the diff feels like there are notches when I turn them. Did I damaged the diff by over tighten it until the balls notched the plates?
Should I rebuilt with new plates?
I loosen the diff and the 'notch' feeling goes away... its there only when the diff is quite tight.
Regards
Gary
#3432
Tech Addict
the MI-4CXL has a long top deck, and the short weave chassis. it also has different bulkheads, steering rack, and sway bar mounts.
all together, it adds up to way more steering, and more rear traction than you can even imagine. this adds up to more corner speed.
it is well worth the extra cost........
#3433
Tech Regular
iTrader: (21)
the MI-4CXL has a long top deck, and the short weave chassis. it also has different bulkheads, steering rack, and sway bar mounts.
all together, it adds up to way more steering, and more rear traction than you can even imagine. this adds up to more corner speed.
it is well worth the extra cost........
all together, it adds up to way more steering, and more rear traction than you can even imagine. this adds up to more corner speed.
it is well worth the extra cost........
Thx
#3435
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)