6LikesSchumacher Mi4
06-06-2012, 09:11 PM
#3571
Cool thanks appreciate the answer, I thought there might be too may variables but I'd say your idea is most likely what caused it. As I'm new to touring cars I just wanted to make sure I didnt over tighten the belt.
Last edited by Taman; 06-06-2012 at 10:46 PM.
06-06-2012, 09:14 PM
#3572
Originally Posted by Taman
I just bought a 2nd hand Mi4CX - my first touring car and I'm wondering why I waited so long. I'm really impressed with the quality of the car.
Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?
Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any sugitgestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.
thanks appreciate your help
Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?
Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any sugitgestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.
thanks appreciate your help
06-07-2012, 07:56 AM
#3574
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Originally Posted by Taman
I thought I assembled it as per instructions but I'll take another look just in case I'm going to fit a Spec-R diff as they have had good reviews. Will be getting a Mi4CXL in a couple of weeks as I am impressed with my Mi4CX.
I'm going to fit a Spec-R diff as they have had good reviews. Will be getting a Mi4CXL in a couple of weeks as I am impressed with my Mi4CX.the Spec R internal are quite nice for the CXL...all the carbon stuff came in all of mine.
use a little RTV to fully seal it. They leak without it.
06-07-2012, 11:03 AM
#3575
Originally Posted by Taman
I just bought a 2nd hand Mi4CX - my first touring car and I'm wondering why I waited so long. I'm really impressed with the quality of the car.
Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?
Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.
thanks appreciate your help
Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?
Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.
thanks appreciate your help
cause=during installation, i over shaved (with exacto knife) the pulley side wall so it snaps on the pulley easier,,,,user error
06-07-2012, 11:04 AM
#3576
Originally Posted by Double D Donuts
Hey guys, I have run my new CXL for a few weekends now and I am getting the car closer to my liking. My problem is the car is still pretty slow compared to my original mi4.
The car "feels" planted, and is quick to react, but the lap times are almost 2 seconds slower then some of the best guys. On average I run mid 17 second lap times, and teh occasional mid 16, while the good guys are running mid 14s and 15s.
My old mi4 had the aluminum suspension blocks with some spacers i never moved around, except for rear toe. Should I swap the suspension blocks over?
Also, I have had people tell me that running a gear diff in the front is a bad idea. I am running a gear diff in the front (nearly locked) and ball diff in the rear. The point of the gear diff in the front is to be similar to a spool, but not so much stress on the drivetrain, and less scrubbing of speed.
Last season I managed to grab a set of soft compound tires (30 shore) compared to the hard compound we find locally (36 shore) and the car felt amazing. The problem is...these guys are running the same tires I am currently running. What could I be doing so wrong?
The car "feels" planted, and is quick to react, but the lap times are almost 2 seconds slower then some of the best guys. On average I run mid 17 second lap times, and teh occasional mid 16, while the good guys are running mid 14s and 15s.
My old mi4 had the aluminum suspension blocks with some spacers i never moved around, except for rear toe. Should I swap the suspension blocks over?
Also, I have had people tell me that running a gear diff in the front is a bad idea. I am running a gear diff in the front (nearly locked) and ball diff in the rear. The point of the gear diff in the front is to be similar to a spool, but not so much stress on the drivetrain, and less scrubbing of speed.
Last season I managed to grab a set of soft compound tires (30 shore) compared to the hard compound we find locally (36 shore) and the car felt amazing. The problem is...these guys are running the same tires I am currently running. What could I be doing so wrong?
06-07-2012, 11:44 AM
#3577
Originally Posted by Taman
I thought I assembled it as per instructions but I'll take another look just in case I'm going to fit a Spec-R diff as they have had good reviews. Will be getting a Mi4CXL in a couple of weeks as I am impressed with my Mi4CX.
I'm going to fit a Spec-R diff as they have had good reviews. Will be getting a Mi4CXL in a couple of weeks as I am impressed with my Mi4CX.do not overtighten the specR gear diff screws--it causes the case to separate if you do....use a little gasket sealant,not too much!, where the gasket seals to the plastic case,,use greenslime on the o-rings--.2 shim on the inside, .1 on the outside----always use the carbon gears
06-07-2012, 06:50 PM
#3578
and be sure to check and double check the centering of the belt, If i remember correctly I had like 4 bearing shims on side and 1 on the other in order to get it to run true
06-14-2012, 06:18 AM
#3581
Tech Rookie
just rebuilding the shocks on my cx for the 3rd or so time, quite new to racing and stuff so help required! my shocks always leak, should i use the clear o rings, double blue o rings, any green slime anywhere? racing on smooth carpet with standard springs. tyia
06-14-2012, 06:39 AM
#3582
Tech Elite
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Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
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Originally Posted by Luvs-cougars
just rebuilding the shocks on my cx for the 3rd or so time, quite new to racing and stuff so help required! my shocks always leak, should i use the clear o rings, double blue o rings, any green slime anywhere? racing on smooth carpet with standard springs. tyia
Yes use green slime never hurts.
The blue or-rings that are in the rebuild kit work great.
Also make sure you build the bottom of the shocks correctly
O-ring first then spacer otherwise it will leak.
Once they are built correctly they are one of the best.
Almost forgot if you have piston slap shim under piston to remove any play...
06-14-2012, 06:43 AM
#3583
Tech Rookie
Originally Posted by olhipster1
To stop leaking use the red one-rings if you have them
Yes use green slime never hurts.
The blue or-rings that are in the rebuild kit work great.
Also make sure you build the bottom of the shocks correctly
O-ring first then spacer otherwise it will leak.
Once they are built correctly they are one of the best.
Almost forgot if you have piston slap shim under piston to remove any play...
Yes use green slime never hurts.
The blue or-rings that are in the rebuild kit work great.
Also make sure you build the bottom of the shocks correctly
O-ring first then spacer otherwise it will leak.
Once they are built correctly they are one of the best.
Almost forgot if you have piston slap shim under piston to remove any play...
06-14-2012, 07:17 AM
#3584
Originally Posted by Luvs-cougars
actually its the 2nd time ive rebuilt since new, last time i used 1 blue ring and a spacer, and always had oil on ball cup! so do i use 2 blue orings without the spacer?
from memory, i believe it should go like this---o-ring, spacer, o-ring, and then bush (but im not 100% sure, this is how they are used on the cougar sv)
Last edited by poochy; 06-14-2012 at 07:28 AM.
06-14-2012, 09:25 AM
#3585
Tech Rookie
Originally Posted by poochy
i used two o rings-
from memory, i believe it should go like this---o-ring, spacer, o-ring, and then bush (but im not 100% sure, this is how they are used on the cougar sv)
from memory, i believe it should go like this---o-ring, spacer, o-ring, and then bush (but im not 100% sure, this is how they are used on the cougar sv)
