Tamiya mini cooper
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Perhaps this has been asked before-does anyone know what brushless motor is the "equivalent" of a silver can motor? 17.5,21.5,25.5 or something else? Thanks, Don
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A 540 sized 21.5T should be fairly close to a good silver can. A 380 sized rotor (like a Hobbywing) type motor would be around a 17.5T.
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M05 Bodies
Has anybody ever tried the bodies from abchobbyusa.com? I like the mini countryman and the austin mini truck body. They don't say the thickness or what wheel base they require.
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Nice to see you're back monkeyracing.
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i ran the mini ute ABC shell for a while , theyre quite thin in construction , i suppose if you dont crash than thats not an issue , it was a SWB shell
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
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Mardave shells dont fit Jim. The wheelbase and the width are wrong.
I used to be the Aussie Mardave importer....
I used to be the Aussie Mardave importer....
Jim,
You can always reinforce your mini body with some gyprock open weave tape,(as used on gyprock joints between two sheets), and hot glue. That way they might last longer.
Later,
Calvin.
You can always reinforce your mini body with some gyprock open weave tape,(as used on gyprock joints between two sheets), and hot glue. That way they might last longer.
Later,
Calvin.
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Well I crash a lot so that would be a big problem! lol Thanks for the help. A friend of mine tried using fiber glass mesh and shoe goo. Worked great and was real strong.
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Personally, I like the Hobbywing the best.
Tech Regular
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Which hobbywing are we talking about? Ive been looking for a brushless motor for my M05 recently. Part#?
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I suppose I forgot to mention that my club, karz.ca, has chosen our replacement for silver cans. We've decdied to go with the new Orca Q Spark ESC and 17.5T combo. The motor is built like a Hobbywing, with a 380 sized rotor in a 540 sized can.
We had them spec'd to 2300kv, so they're dead on with a regular, non-mutant, non-cheatin' silver can. The torque is the hardest thing to get used to. It's instantaneous and the motor pulls hard to it's limit.
The reason we went with 17.5 rather than 13T has to do with our track. Running on a tighter, stickier carpet surface, with a RWD dominant field required that we slow it up a little. If we had a large outdoor track and lots of guys running FWD, the HW 13T would have likely been our top pick. It's a great system and the price is positively unbeatable. (Unless you're shopping for shanzhai!)
Jim
We had them spec'd to 2300kv, so they're dead on with a regular, non-mutant, non-cheatin' silver can. The torque is the hardest thing to get used to. It's instantaneous and the motor pulls hard to it's limit.
The reason we went with 17.5 rather than 13T has to do with our track. Running on a tighter, stickier carpet surface, with a RWD dominant field required that we slow it up a little. If we had a large outdoor track and lots of guys running FWD, the HW 13T would have likely been our top pick. It's a great system and the price is positively unbeatable. (Unless you're shopping for shanzhai!)
Jim
+ YouTube Video | |
I'm wondering if there's something wrong with my speed control or something? It randomly started doing this and I thought making a video of it would be easier than typing out whats going wrong.
Notice the tansponder light blnks or dims when problem occurs
Also, the light on the Futaba receiver turns from green to red or orange when the problem occurs.
In the video all I do is turn all the way right or all the way left. 1 throttle on accident.
The throttle also lags along with the steering when the problem occurs.
Any advice helps,
Thanks.