Originally Posted by LATC3

I bought my 3racing ball diff on ebay for $9. its fully adjustible and i think it spools up quicker then the ta03 diff. And i own two ta03 cars and four ta03 ball diffs, i think there's a huge difference.

Also tony my problem was half stearing alignment but still has a unstable feel to it.

Originally Posted by monkeyracing

LATC3: Here are a couple of items that you may find helpful, all lovingly typed out using proper grammar. (sort of)

These are general rules that I found can make a car a bit easier to drive, on most surfaces.

Tires: The rule of thumb is to have a little more grip on the front tires than the rears. I usually run type A slicks up front, and s grip radials at the rear. Another rule (that I don't really follow) is to have the tire inserts harder up front than in the rear tires. I have found that I can run hard inserts at all 4 corners without any problems. The difference in grip between front and rear is more critical.

Toe: Most will suggest having a very slight toe out in the front, with a little toe in at the rear, about 1.5 degrees is usual. I run almost neutral toe at the front wheels, and 1.5 in at the rear. I've found that too much toe out at the front wheels can make the car twitchy. The grippier tires up front will compensate for the lack of toe on turn in. The added bonus is that you get a little less drag having your front wheels straight.

Dampers: There are loads of opinions on what works and what makes a difference. The general school of thought is harder springs up front, with softer springs at the rear. Shock oil isn't terribly critical, but it can make a subtle difference in the way the car handles, especially at turn in. Again, stiffer at the front, softer at the rear.

Limiting travel in the dampers is probably more important than what weight of oil you use, however. A couple of O-rings inside, under the piston, and one outside, on the shock shaft can help a lot. The O-rings inside limit droop, and the O-ring outside, if your car is setup in typical fashion, will be just enough to keep your car from bottoming out. Hitting bottom on your chassis is an absolute no-no. If you bottom out, you lose traction and control.

In any case, these are things that I've found that have helped me. They may not be right, and I can't guarantee any of it will work for you. I know guys running totally stock minis that kick my butt on a weekly basis. Some of those guys are even running the stock kit tires. (show-offy bastards!) I suppose then that these tips just make the car a little easier to drive if you're as lame as I am at RC driving.

Jim

Originally Posted by tony gray

We've seen/tried about 3 or 4 - 3 Racing Ball diffs. Not one of them could we tighten enough to work without slipping hugely... Maybe 1 in 500 actually does work..

Dude, you're running X patterns, right? Try something else... Some X patterns do exactly what you're describing... Instability and spinning around in turns..
The quality of them is very inconsistent.

Originally Posted by Ashley Cobb

I will most likely get flamed for this as i have before, but I fill the tamiya servo saver full of CA glue. I had trouble getting the car to track straight, even with an expensive servo. It helped a great deal with the problem, and the alloy servo mounts completely fixed it.

Originally Posted by MD

xrayroooahhhh - 3Racing makes one also.

Originally Posted by Ashley Cobb

...I fill the tamiya servo saver full of CA glue.

Originally Posted by edhchoe

The front tires wearing out in 1 hr is just ridiculous.

Originally Posted by LATC3

Very interesting thanks for the info.

under torque it will go into a little toe out under power.

Originally Posted by Juanchoyo

I don't know how many people reads the WHOLE thread so that they accidentally find my Setup Sheet, it's just I need to get it back to life

Hope u like it....................

Originally Posted by Ashley Cobb

I will most likely get flamed for this as i have before, but I fill the tamiya servo saver full of CA glue. I had trouble getting the car to track straight, even with an expensive servo. It helped a great deal with the problem, and the alloy servo mounts completely fixed it.

Originally Posted by monkeyracing

Actually, under power, it will toe in. (wheels pulling forward against a fulcrum...yada yada yada...) Unless, of course, there is some suspension action I'm not taking into account.