Ask Aaron Waldron
09-21-2005, 06:30 AM
#2536
Aaron is the bomb diggity!
09-21-2005, 03:34 PM
#2537
Shoulda seen this place when I was gone for a couple months...shambles! lol
09-21-2005, 04:42 PM
#2538
Homer the new site looks real good. I just sent off my reg-info. I also sent you an e-mail on something I found on your site.
Scott
Scott
09-22-2005, 05:33 AM
#2539
Thanks Scott
Aaron do you what weight Xray 400 is compared to Losi. So in other words Xray 400 equals what in Losi.
Aaron do you what weight Xray 400 is compared to Losi. So in other words Xray 400 equals what in Losi.
09-22-2005, 07:24 AM
#2540
Tech Rookie
Aaron,
My friend has a XXX-NT RTR. Lately his diff gear has been melting. Ya, melting. Those little steel balls in the diff must be getting way way hot, and melting the gear. What could be causing this?
Thanks
My friend has a XXX-NT RTR. Lately his diff gear has been melting. Ya, melting. Those little steel balls in the diff must be getting way way hot, and melting the gear. What could be causing this?
Thanks
09-22-2005, 03:25 PM
#2542
Tech Adept
Also, use the Team Associated "stealth diff lube" in the diff. Some of Losi guys use this and is somehow made with a tiny, microscopic grit that helps the diff.
09-22-2005, 11:54 PM
#2543
The stock Losi diff lube is good. AE black thrust bearing grease works really well.
Homer - No idea. I know there's an SAE vs. metric conversion on the Grid somewhere.
velvetfrog - Scroll back a bunch of posts on this thread...there's a post dedicated to making a Losi diff last. The post was on 9-15
Homer - No idea. I know there's an SAE vs. metric conversion on the Grid somewhere.
velvetfrog - Scroll back a bunch of posts on this thread...there's a post dedicated to making a Losi diff last. The post was on 9-15
09-23-2005, 08:08 AM
#2544
Originally Posted by Homer Allman
Thanks Scott
Aaron do you what weight Xray 400 is compared to Losi. So in other words Xray 400 equals what in Losi.
Aaron do you what weight Xray 400 is compared to Losi. So in other words Xray 400 equals what in Losi.
http://www.teamxray.com/xforum/viewt...ight=shock+oil
and this site has some pretty good conversion info as well
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/tip/shock.html
Hope this helps.
09-24-2005, 12:23 PM
#2545
Casper hitting cleanup!
09-27-2005, 09:10 AM
#2546
Tech Initiate
Since this is the Ask A-Duh thread...
What was the best thing before sliced bread ?
What was the best thing before sliced bread ?
09-28-2005, 10:52 AM
#2549
Registered User
Aaron, I just got me an AD1 for cheap, but I have 3 new motors, and dont know which to put in it.. I have a new Fantom FR12, a broken in only OS Max 12CV, and another just like it...
what should i use>?
what should i use>?
09-28-2005, 10:53 AM
#2550
Registered User
and this is the Diff thing aaron was tlking about guys...
High bite carpet is a textbook example of when you need to run a diff. A 2wd car will push off the track without one!
When the diff is gritty, it's often the thrust bearing. Clean everything with motor spray right out of the package and try using Associated black grease on the thrust assembly. Put it together according to the instructions and work the diff back and forth with your hands as you tighten it...tighten a little bit, work it back and forth, and repeat.
To test the diff, put an allen wrench through each outdrive to hold them still and try to turn the diff gear. If you can turn it, you need to tighten the diff more.
Once it's in the car, hold the car up by the rear end of it and apply 1/4 throttle to get the wheels turning. Use the pit table or ground to stop one tire for five seconds, then the other, back and forth, about five times each. This will break in all the parts and allow everything to seat. When everything breaks in, the diff usually loosens up, and that's why people melt new diffs.
Lock your slipper down, hold the right rear tire and spur gear with your right hand, and try to turn the left rear tire. If you can turn it, then you need to tighten the diff. Do this until you can't turn the left rear tire. Back your slipper off the recommended adjustment in the manual, and do the test again. You should find that you'll be able to turn the left rear tire with some effort, and that the slipper shaft, nut, and spring all turn. If you can't turn the left rear tire, back the slipper off until you can.
Keep checking your diff and slipper adjustment every run or so and it will last for a long time!
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High bite carpet is a textbook example of when you need to run a diff. A 2wd car will push off the track without one!
When the diff is gritty, it's often the thrust bearing. Clean everything with motor spray right out of the package and try using Associated black grease on the thrust assembly. Put it together according to the instructions and work the diff back and forth with your hands as you tighten it...tighten a little bit, work it back and forth, and repeat.
To test the diff, put an allen wrench through each outdrive to hold them still and try to turn the diff gear. If you can turn it, you need to tighten the diff more.
Once it's in the car, hold the car up by the rear end of it and apply 1/4 throttle to get the wheels turning. Use the pit table or ground to stop one tire for five seconds, then the other, back and forth, about five times each. This will break in all the parts and allow everything to seat. When everything breaks in, the diff usually loosens up, and that's why people melt new diffs.
Lock your slipper down, hold the right rear tire and spur gear with your right hand, and try to turn the left rear tire. If you can turn it, then you need to tighten the diff. Do this until you can't turn the left rear tire. Back your slipper off the recommended adjustment in the manual, and do the test again. You should find that you'll be able to turn the left rear tire with some effort, and that the slipper shaft, nut, and spring all turn. If you can't turn the left rear tire, back the slipper off until you can.
Keep checking your diff and slipper adjustment every run or so and it will last for a long time!
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