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Old 11-27-2014, 11:55 AM
  #6271  
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What length sensor wire is used when running saddle packs config, with ESC forward?
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Old 11-27-2014, 05:11 PM
  #6272  
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Originally Posted by maxmcnasty
Thank you. It feels good to be back. And thank you for the link
Your welcome!
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Old 11-27-2014, 07:37 PM
  #6273  
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Just started building my kit. So far really like how easy it's going togeather!
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Old 11-27-2014, 07:40 PM
  #6274  
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Originally Posted by CarFanatic
Just started building my kit. So far really like how easy it's going togeather!
If you have issues, don't get frustrated. Ask, the more I run the car the better I appreciate the design and quality.
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Old 11-27-2014, 10:45 PM
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I have read a ton of the D413 stuff in here, watched all the D413 vids, etc ... and here is my ONLY real question, and REAL concern for the car ....

Shock caps ... WHY not use the B5 V2 ALUMINUM top caps on the HPI??? Should fit yea?

Some use the B5 composite ... but going from the pop-on to composite screw on? Plastic is plastic, it will strip and come off. If the aluminums fit, Im going that route.

Heres what I see ... an 1/8th scale paltform scaled down. Simple and tough, easy to tune. Done. Lets work out the bugs, and get some serious 4mod racing done, where we ALL finish the race.

I pulled the trigger ... think I got the last D413 in stock at Tower.

2 ball diffs, 3 belts, a slipper and a clicker? I got enough to do in the pits ... D413 for me!!!
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Old 11-27-2014, 11:11 PM
  #6276  
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Originally Posted by jaywelchy
I have read a ton of the D413 stuff in here, watched all the D413 vids, etc ... and here is my ONLY real question, and REAL concern for the car ....

Shock caps ... WHY not use the B5 V2 ALUMINUM top caps on the HPI??? Should fit yea?

Some use the B5 composite ... but going from the pop-on to composite screw on? Plastic is plastic, it will strip and come off. If the aluminums fit, Im going that route.

Heres what I see ... an 1/8th scale paltform scaled down. Simple and tough, easy to tune. Done. Lets work out the bugs, and get some serious 4mod racing done, where we ALL finish the race.

I pulled the trigger ... think I got the last D413 in stock at Tower.

2 ball diffs, 3 belts, a slipper and a clicker? I got enough to do in the pits ... D413 for me!!!
AE aluminum caps won't fit at all, but AE plastic caps thread on tightly. This has been discussed multiple times in this thread.
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Old 11-27-2014, 11:13 PM
  #6277  
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Originally Posted by nv529
AE aluminum caps won't fit at all, but AE plastic caps thread on tightly. This has been discussed multiple times in this thread.
The Kyosho caps fit tho I hear.
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Old 11-28-2014, 02:47 PM
  #6278  
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Originally Posted by nv529
AE aluminum caps won't fit at all, but AE plastic caps thread on tightly. This has been discussed multiple times in this thread.
I missed it for sure then ... good to know, bummer too.
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Old 11-28-2014, 03:58 PM
  #6279  
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Originally Posted by jaywelchy
I missed it for sure then ... good to know, bummer too.
Call me crazy but I have a feeling power stroke caps will fit it, look at Ty's caps.
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Old 11-28-2014, 08:26 PM
  #6280  
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I bought the associated caps and stand offs. It looks like I will need the screw for the stand offs to slide on and some bolts. Am I correct on this? Any one have parts numbers for these?
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Old 11-29-2014, 05:23 AM
  #6281  
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Default stainless steel fasteners

Originally Posted by Jason84
It's titanium ..... Ever buy a hinge pin kit ?? That is just a rod and now this is how many screws ?? Do the math.....
I just bought a stainless kit from RCScrewz. Nice kit, has lots of extras even body screws. The only thing missing is the button head diff screws (2Mx10). I was told to use the cap screws in the kit but had interference issues.

it really makes the car look nice. After only a couple months at the track the original hardware was looking pretty sad.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-rcscrewz.jpg  

Last edited by jjl1; 11-29-2014 at 05:36 AM. Reason: added picture
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Old 11-29-2014, 06:38 AM
  #6282  
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Just be careful with the stainless screws. The material is softer than a good steel screw, so the hex's tend to strip faster and easier.
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Old 11-29-2014, 09:50 AM
  #6283  
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Default Thanks all

Just want to say thanks to all the contributors here that helped me along the way during my build. Yes I did read ALL the pages like I do with all my builds.

Only problem I encountered was a lower shock screw in the rear arm that was overtightened. I am usually pretty careful at not over tightening screws but SOME of the plastic parts seem quite soft compared to my Kyosho's. Only real concern of mine is how many times I can repeatedly loosen and tighten a screw into the plastics before it loses it's hold.

Anyways I had a practice run at the track yesterday and had a great first impression. Out of the box it was much easier to drive than my DEX410 V3 which took some time to setup but once it was it was very very nice to drive. Seemed to be balanced well front to back with a shorty and track and track manners were predictable. Once I tweak a wee bit more I'll be the envy of this class. Sure I too was concerned about slop but I'm over it now... well somewhat over it especially when I caress my K cars.

I will say that the flex in this chassis seems perfect for small indoor tracks. The torsional flex in the carbon is sweet for carving tight into turns, yet stiff enough so it doesn't bow or dip between the wheels. I think overall the ability to tune with flex (arms) is very innovative... I see other designers copying this for wheeler designs in the near future.

The body is just silly in my opinion, I mean we all know it. I wish it was as durable as everything else. I shoe goo'd the crap into the seams. I ordered the JConcepts body to use when the stock body gets demolished which won't be long.

Anyways here are some pics to share.





Huge props to may painter for my body. Did a great job turning this shoebox into something sleek

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Old 11-29-2014, 09:59 AM
  #6284  
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Very nice electronics install and the body looks great.
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Old 11-29-2014, 10:10 AM
  #6285  
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That body is sweet!
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