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Old 12-01-2013, 03:42 PM
  #3481  
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Originally Posted by Wease
The one thing I wish XRay included in the manual is gearing recommendations. I assumed I could use the AE B44 as a base-line for gearing and for 3 different types of motor turns I was over-geared and thermaled my ESC as well. I had the same results with the motor coming off cool, but the ESC was on nuclear melt down .

I started out with a 7.5 and ended up settling on a 21 tooth pinion. For a 6.5 turn motor I settled on a 18 tooth pinion. On my current Reedy Sonic 6 turn motor I'm currently at a 17 tooth pinion. I would have gone to a 16 tooth pinion, but the spur isn't big enough to set the mesh correctly. It comes off pretty warm, but it makes 10 minutes without thermaling

I've not tried an 8.5, but I wanted to give you at least some information on which to based your gearing. If I were you, I'd start with a 22 tooth pinion and see how that feels.
Thanks. 22 tooth pinion is exactly what I've been using.

Like I said, very tight, small track, short bursts of full throttle (albeit with Current Limiter at 50%) but Throttle Endpoint in the radio turned way down (65%).

I'm thinking perhaps the Timing Boost might be the problem. It's presently set at #3 (25 degree boost). Maybe I'll back that off and/or try a smaller pinion and then turn up the Throttle EPA instead.
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jmkalt
Thanks. 22 tooth pinion is exactly what I've been using.

Like I said, very tight, small track, short bursts of full throttle (albeit with Current Limiter at 50%) but Throttle Endpoint in the radio turned way down (65%).

I'm thinking perhaps the Timing Boost might be the problem. It's presently set at #3 (25 degree boost). Maybe I'll back that off and/or try a smaller pinion and then turn up the Throttle EPA instead.
With lower turn motors you shouldn't need any boost. An 8.5 isn't a crazy low turn, but it has plenty of power without boost. I'd turn the boost off and increase your throttle EPA.

What speeder are you using? Although some speeders say they can run down to a 7.5 motor, it's a different ball game when the system is in a 4wd vehicle. The vehicle is heavier, there is a lot more load on the system running twice the drive train as a 2wd counterpart, and usually you're pushing a 4wd car harder.
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:19 PM
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Anyone using the setup station with their xb4? If so are u guys using those shims 108928 ?
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Wease
What speeder are you using? Although some speeders say they can run down to a 7.5 motor, it's a different ball game when the system is in a 4wd vehicle. The vehicle is heavier, there is a lot more load on the system running twice the drive train as a 2wd counterpart, and usually you're pushing a 4wd car harder.
Tekin RS Gen2. I forgot to mention that earlier.
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:07 PM
  #3485  
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Originally Posted by jmkalt
Thanks. 22 tooth pinion is exactly what I've been using.

Like I said, very tight, small track, short bursts of full throttle (albeit with Current Limiter at 50%) but Throttle Endpoint in the radio turned way down (65%).

I'm thinking perhaps the Timing Boost might be the problem. It's presently set at #3 (25 degree boost). Maybe I'll back that off and/or try a smaller pinion and then turn up the Throttle EPA instead.
Turn all boost etc down and don;t be afraid of gearing down for a run to see what temps etc you get. Driving with a smooth trigger helps as well. And less motor is a consideration. I prefer to use some full throttle with a 10.5 rather than turned down bunch of stuff with a 8.5
Originally Posted by Speedychris22
Anyone using the setup station with their xb4? If so are u guys using those shims 108928 ?
I used something from the spares box. Didn't seem to need anything special. With the Hudy station...
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jmkalt
Tekin RS Gen2. I forgot to mention that earlier.
I know Tekin says that speeder will work with the 8.5, but in that car it will be pushed to its limits. Removing the boost and gearing conservatively will help, but I suspect it's always going to run on the warm side. I use an RS Pro for that reason. The RS Pro is no longer available, but the RSX is about to hit the shelves and that's the speeder I'd recommend. The RS Pro and RSX are built to handle the increased load, higher turn motors and harder running while staying cool.
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Old 12-01-2013, 09:48 PM
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I run the Orion r10 pro. I wouldn't consider the tekin rs at all in this car or any 4 wheel with more than a 13.5 motor. Either get a R10 pro, tekin rsPro or tekin Rsx when it comes out.
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:18 PM
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I run Viper escs. Small and good.
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:40 AM
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The tekin RS is not suitable for modified motor use in 4wd. You'll end up breaking it and have junk performance. its fine in 2wd high turn applications however.
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:45 AM
  #3490  
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Default new 2014 front wishbones weak?

has anyone noticed the new 2014 front wishbones being a lot weaker than the originals? I find they break at the holes to screw on the carbon bits and take a lot less of an impact to break.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by neallewis
has anyone noticed the new 2014 front wishbones being a lot weaker than the originals? I find they break at the holes to screw on the carbon bits and take a lot less of an impact to break.

How did that happen?
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:42 PM
  #3492  
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Originally Posted by dMITIj
How did that happen?
racing indoors, landed on a soft gym crash mat a bit off centre on to the right front. nothing i would expect to break the car, but there was a loud cracking noise and the wishbone completely gave way. bent an outdrive as well, as the arm ripped off the corner. looks like it gave way right on the new holes used when attaching the carbon stiffeners. a lot weaker than the old ones.
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:50 PM
  #3493  
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Originally Posted by neallewis
racing indoors, landed on a soft gym crash mat a bit off centre on to the right front. nothing i would expect to break the car, but there was a loud cracking noise and the wishbone completely gave way. bent an outdrive as well, as the arm ripped off the corner. looks like it gave way right on the new holes used when attaching the carbon stiffeners. a lot weaker than the old ones.

okay not good, maybe you should write the xray dep. and let them know how easy it broke, and then let us all know what they said?
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Old 12-03-2013, 07:04 AM
  #3494  
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Sorry to hear about the arms...
I put 5/3 diff fluid in for tomorrow nights club race But I want to ask you guys a kind of off topic question. Before I glue up these tires, anyone still run open cell foams in buggy? Particularly this buggy on tight indoor clay w 180's and jumps right out of the corners. I've been running PL IONS MC w/AKA CC and they feel almost too stiff for such a light buggy w/very little sidewall. I put the open cell that come w/the Panther super soft tires w/o glue and they feel great in my hand..
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Old 12-03-2013, 07:56 AM
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I've been running the LRP Flow in my buggy and it works really well. Although one of my buddies has been running a proto RSX in his touring car for a few months now and it's been working really well. Much better than all the RS Pro's he went through trying to run mod with them.
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