Sydewynder

The TP short can will put too much weight on the right side of the rear pod. Get a regular sized 21.5T.

There are a lot of different motor brands being run at Norcal. Novak, Trinity, etc. I'm using an old skool Fantom D3 motor. Just need to gear it correctly. If you need help just ask.

A shorty pack should make min. weight of 1050g.

I would get the carbon version of the side links and center football piece you posted from TQRC's site. TQRC is outta stock right now.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

I don't think the short can is ROAR legal either. The full sized Plutonium motor is. Its a popular motor at the track and supported at Norcal. I still think my D3.5 is a little faster and I'm able to do a 15 minute main without overheating. I'm running the eXpress D3.5 with 12.3 standard rotor. The Maxzilla has a 12.5 torque rotor I believe and should have a ton more torque while running even more cooler. But with F1, you want something smoother.

The fastest 21.5 I've tried is the Tekin 21.5 RPM motor. It is very fast but I ran into heat issues and had to turn down timing quite a bit. Still fast but the D3.5 is more linear throttle. If you'll be at the next onroad race, you can check it out.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Thanks guys I might not be done building mine by that race so will make it the next time. Are they running on road this weekend? Saw the calendar its only off road. Will probably order the D3.5 then.

I saw the carbon links on rcmart so might order them but build with the stockers for now tq is sold out and so is everyone else.

Sydewynder

The next onroad race is scheduled for Sept. 1st. See you then!

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Looking fwd to it!

simmo0916

Hi Guys!

Many thanks for all the tips over the last month or so. It has been a great help. My 101 is now built, and I'm very happy with it. Made a few mistakes along the way, But with the help of this forum and a little bit of reasoning on my own part, It turned into a really fun build!

It wont be road worthy for another couple of months, as I still need a motor, Radio and battery.

On that note, Could you guys take a look at my Electronics plan and tell me If I'm going to run into any problems please?

ESC is a Reventon S. I plan to change the motor wiring for larger gauge wire, and change the Deans connector it came with to the 4mm bullet connectors.

Motor will be a Reedy Sonic Mach 2 21.5T.

Radio will be a Spektrum DX4s with a SR410 reciever.

Battery will be a shortly Lipo from Reedy.

Tyres will be Pits 571 and 572.

I plan to add a blinking red light to the rear of the car - Does this just plug into my receiver for power?

Anyways, Thats the next couple of months, Really cant wait to get this thing moving now!

Cheers for any input.

Qatmix

Electrics look fine to me

Here is a tutorial for a red flashing light

http://www.thercracer.com/2010/01/f1...-tutorial.html

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Don't want big wire for F1
16-18g is enough, and better for free pod movement

terry.sc

Personally I would go for the Hobbywing Xtreme Stock. The early Reventons weren't that reliable so got a bad reputation, but they are sorted now. The Hobbywings are quite popular, and are cheaper than the Reventon.

For wiring you want to go thinner, not thicker. Too thick a wire will act as a spring and tweak the rear pod. Thinner wire will allow the pod to move freely. The 21.5T motors mean you can get away with 18g wire.

This depends on whether you plan to race at BRCA events or not. If not you can use Turnigy nanotech lipos from Hobbyking for 1/4 the price of the Reedy pack. If you are planning on doing big events you will want a motor and battery from the BRCA homologation lists. Brushless motors are all very similar, it's more down to personal choice rather than motor of the month in F1s. My personal choice of motor would be Thunder Power or Speed Passion.

-jacob-

iTrader: (7)

my first Tamiya build... Now i understand why Tamiyas are soooo expensive.
Here is my finished product:

Jamie Hanson

iTrader: (39)

That is a good looking car. Where did you find those wire separators? That is pretty trick.

simmo0916

+1 on that - I need those in my Car!

simmo0916

Hi there,

Im still working on my electrics for this car! But im struggling to see how you got all that in! Are you using a low profile servo? I am too, But I have nowhere near that amount of room left over! Whats the battery and servo If you dont mind?

Looks really good!

Rick Vessell

iTrader: (10)

Those look like spark plug wire separators. You can pick them up at your local auto parts store. Just extra weight IMO. And like the others have posted, you want small wire for the motor.

simmo0916

Is there some sort of rule of thumb for what size wiring can be used with certain motors?

You say 21.5T motors are fine with 16G wire - If I intend to run my TRF with a 13.5T for example, would I need bigger wire?

Apologies, I dont know a great deal about this sort of thing