Hot Bodies Cyclone
12-31-2008, 10:37 PM
Here is my process that I follow...
Diff building tips:
1) Clean hands and have a nice clean flat surface to work on.
2) Sand the diff rings on both sides with 600 grit wet dry sand paper. (Figure eight pattern seems to be the best). Take your time here seems like the diff rings need lots of TLC to get them flat and even. I use an old diff half for this part or you will burn a hole in your finger (this from personal experience). Motor spray on the sandpaper and then start your figure eight pattern. Add motor spray as needed. Clean rings with motor spray once sanding is complete.
3) Clean the 3mm diff balls with motor spray and set a side for now.
4)Gather and clean eight thrust balls and the thrust washers. Put the first washer on the diff screw and put a good amount of black AE grease on the washer. Put all eight thrust balls in the grease and then put the other washer on top of the thrust balls. Insert into the small diff half. Set aside.
5)Install the washer, diff ring, spring, bearing, and t-nut into the large diff half. Coat the diff ring with a small amount of silicone grease and rub it in (the clear grease). Set aside.
6)Take the small diff half and install the bearing on top. Install the diff ring and coat with a small amount of silicone grease and rub it in. Install the pulley. Take the clean diff balls on a clean paper towel and squirt some silicone grease on them. rub in the grease so that all of the balls are coated. Insert each diff ball onto the pulley (I use a small tool to do this, they seem to stick pretty easily due to the grease).
7) Diff is now ready to assemble. Take each half and put them together and start to screw in the diff screw. Once it starts to catch tighten until the pulley can't still rotate while holding each diff half. Then back it off one full turn. The diff is now ready to break in.
8)Diff break-in...Turn on your car and put the right side tires (left side should be off the surface) on the bench and then very slowly pull the trigger. Let the tires spin for 15-20 seconds and then stop. Let the car cool off for a few minutes then do the other side. After the car cools again tighten the diff a half turn and then repeat. Repeat this process until the diff is just tight enough for your racing application.
Some added info:
Slight grooves in the diff rings are a good thing, but should not get too deep. Sanding the rings is a really important step that cannot get skipped every time you rebuild your diff.
Hope this helps!
Diff building tips:
1) Clean hands and have a nice clean flat surface to work on.
2) Sand the diff rings on both sides with 600 grit wet dry sand paper. (Figure eight pattern seems to be the best). Take your time here seems like the diff rings need lots of TLC to get them flat and even. I use an old diff half for this part or you will burn a hole in your finger (this from personal experience). Motor spray on the sandpaper and then start your figure eight pattern. Add motor spray as needed. Clean rings with motor spray once sanding is complete.
3) Clean the 3mm diff balls with motor spray and set a side for now.
4)Gather and clean eight thrust balls and the thrust washers. Put the first washer on the diff screw and put a good amount of black AE grease on the washer. Put all eight thrust balls in the grease and then put the other washer on top of the thrust balls. Insert into the small diff half. Set aside.
5)Install the washer, diff ring, spring, bearing, and t-nut into the large diff half. Coat the diff ring with a small amount of silicone grease and rub it in (the clear grease). Set aside.
6)Take the small diff half and install the bearing on top. Install the diff ring and coat with a small amount of silicone grease and rub it in. Install the pulley. Take the clean diff balls on a clean paper towel and squirt some silicone grease on them. rub in the grease so that all of the balls are coated. Insert each diff ball onto the pulley (I use a small tool to do this, they seem to stick pretty easily due to the grease).
7) Diff is now ready to assemble. Take each half and put them together and start to screw in the diff screw. Once it starts to catch tighten until the pulley can't still rotate while holding each diff half. Then back it off one full turn. The diff is now ready to break in.
8)Diff break-in...Turn on your car and put the right side tires (left side should be off the surface) on the bench and then very slowly pull the trigger. Let the tires spin for 15-20 seconds and then stop. Let the car cool off for a few minutes then do the other side. After the car cools again tighten the diff a half turn and then repeat. Repeat this process until the diff is just tight enough for your racing application.
Some added info:
Slight grooves in the diff rings are a good thing, but should not get too deep. Sanding the rings is a really important step that cannot get skipped every time you rebuild your diff.
Hope this helps!
01-01-2009, 03:13 AM
Your also best to put a little threadlock on your diff screw as there is a possability of the dif loosening off 
01-01-2009, 11:01 AM
Here is my process that I follow...
Diff building tips:
1) Clean hands and have a nice clean flat surface to work on.
2) Sand the diff rings on both sides with 600 grit wet dry sand paper. (Figure eight pattern seems to be the best). Take your time here seems like the diff rings need lots of TLC to get them flat and even. I use an old diff half for this part or you will burn a hole in your finger (this from personal experience). Motor spray on the sandpaper and then start your figure eight pattern. Add motor spray as needed. Clean rings with motor spray once sanding is complete.
3) Clean the 3mm diff balls with motor spray and set a side for now.
4)Gather and clean eight thrust balls and the thrust washers. Put the first washer on the diff screw and put a good amount of black AE grease on the washer. Put all eight thrust balls in the grease and then put the other washer on top of the thrust balls. Insert into the small diff half. Set aside.
5)Install the washer, diff ring, spring, bearing, and t-nut into the large diff half. Coat the diff ring with a small amount of silicone grease and rub it in (the clear grease). Set aside.
6)Take the small diff half and install the bearing on top. Install the diff ring and coat with a small amount of silicone grease and rub it in. Install the pulley. Take the clean diff balls on a clean paper towel and squirt some silicone grease on them. rub in the grease so that all of the balls are coated. Insert each diff ball onto the pulley (I use a small tool to do this, they seem to stick pretty easily due to the grease).
7) Diff is now ready to assemble. Take each half and put them together and start to screw in the diff screw. Once it starts to catch tighten until the pulley can't still rotate while holding each diff half. Then back it off one full turn. The diff is now ready to break in.
8)Diff break-in...Turn on your car and put the right side tires (left side should be off the surface) on the bench and then very slowly pull the trigger. Let the tires spin for 15-20 seconds and then stop. Let the car cool off for a few minutes then do the other side. After the car cools again tighten the diff a half turn and then repeat. Repeat this process until the diff is just tight enough for your racing application.
Some added info:
Slight grooves in the diff rings are a good thing, but should not get too deep. Sanding the rings is a really important step that cannot get skipped every time you rebuild your diff.
Hope this helps!
Diff building tips:
1) Clean hands and have a nice clean flat surface to work on.
2) Sand the diff rings on both sides with 600 grit wet dry sand paper. (Figure eight pattern seems to be the best). Take your time here seems like the diff rings need lots of TLC to get them flat and even. I use an old diff half for this part or you will burn a hole in your finger (this from personal experience). Motor spray on the sandpaper and then start your figure eight pattern. Add motor spray as needed. Clean rings with motor spray once sanding is complete.
3) Clean the 3mm diff balls with motor spray and set a side for now.
4)Gather and clean eight thrust balls and the thrust washers. Put the first washer on the diff screw and put a good amount of black AE grease on the washer. Put all eight thrust balls in the grease and then put the other washer on top of the thrust balls. Insert into the small diff half. Set aside.
5)Install the washer, diff ring, spring, bearing, and t-nut into the large diff half. Coat the diff ring with a small amount of silicone grease and rub it in (the clear grease). Set aside.
6)Take the small diff half and install the bearing on top. Install the diff ring and coat with a small amount of silicone grease and rub it in. Install the pulley. Take the clean diff balls on a clean paper towel and squirt some silicone grease on them. rub in the grease so that all of the balls are coated. Insert each diff ball onto the pulley (I use a small tool to do this, they seem to stick pretty easily due to the grease).
7) Diff is now ready to assemble. Take each half and put them together and start to screw in the diff screw. Once it starts to catch tighten until the pulley can't still rotate while holding each diff half. Then back it off one full turn. The diff is now ready to break in.
8)Diff break-in...Turn on your car and put the right side tires (left side should be off the surface) on the bench and then very slowly pull the trigger. Let the tires spin for 15-20 seconds and then stop. Let the car cool off for a few minutes then do the other side. After the car cools again tighten the diff a half turn and then repeat. Repeat this process until the diff is just tight enough for your racing application.
Some added info:
Slight grooves in the diff rings are a good thing, but should not get too deep. Sanding the rings is a really important step that cannot get skipped every time you rebuild your diff.
Hope this helps!
Thanks ..... I followed your directions and just built probably the smoothest diff I have ever built.
01-01-2009, 12:53 PM
01-01-2009, 01:01 PM
01-01-2009, 08:47 PM
Tech Fanatic
what gearing to start out at the snowbirds with novak brushless
what a good fdr or spur/and pinion to start out with a brushless novak 17.5 turn motor thxs reggie
01-01-2009, 11:52 PM
01-02-2009, 11:23 AM
Hey Clint,
If you use the tc upper deck, or the 2.5mm "solid" upper deck it has the little wings on the side for the posts. The chassis that have the holes for the posts are the chassis that comes in the tc kit, the 3.6mm solid chassis for foam tire carpet racing, and I believe the 5 cell chassis does as well. Pretty much anything with the plastic battery trays works with the posts.
I use them on my foam tire carpet setup, but I've honestly very rarely even thought about using them on asphalt or rubber tire racing in general. I have stiffened up the front and it seems to make it a little more responsive off center, but overall I get a little bit of a push from running the posts on the front of the car.
-Korey
If you use the tc upper deck, or the 2.5mm "solid" upper deck it has the little wings on the side for the posts. The chassis that have the holes for the posts are the chassis that comes in the tc kit, the 3.6mm solid chassis for foam tire carpet racing, and I believe the 5 cell chassis does as well. Pretty much anything with the plastic battery trays works with the posts.
I use them on my foam tire carpet setup, but I've honestly very rarely even thought about using them on asphalt or rubber tire racing in general. I have stiffened up the front and it seems to make it a little more responsive off center, but overall I get a little bit of a push from running the posts on the front of the car.
-Korey
01-02-2009, 03:50 PM
Hey Clint,
If you use the tc upper deck, or the 2.5mm "solid" upper deck it has the little wings on the side for the posts. The chassis that have the holes for the posts are the chassis that comes in the tc kit, the 3.6mm solid chassis for foam tire carpet racing, and I believe the 5 cell chassis does as well. Pretty much anything with the plastic battery trays works with the posts.
I use them on my foam tire carpet setup, but I've honestly very rarely even thought about using them on asphalt or rubber tire racing in general. I have stiffened up the front and it seems to make it a little more responsive off center, but overall I get a little bit of a push from running the posts on the front of the car.
-Korey
If you use the tc upper deck, or the 2.5mm "solid" upper deck it has the little wings on the side for the posts. The chassis that have the holes for the posts are the chassis that comes in the tc kit, the 3.6mm solid chassis for foam tire carpet racing, and I believe the 5 cell chassis does as well. Pretty much anything with the plastic battery trays works with the posts.
I use them on my foam tire carpet setup, but I've honestly very rarely even thought about using them on asphalt or rubber tire racing in general. I have stiffened up the front and it seems to make it a little more responsive off center, but overall I get a little bit of a push from running the posts on the front of the car.
-Korey
Thanks for the info. When I use to run for Xray I always ran the chassis stiffeners on carpet with rubber tire's. Car was dialed and I'd like to duplicate it with the HB if possible.
01-02-2009, 04:12 PM
Ahh I see. The only mid/rear deck that has the wings for the rear posts is the uber thick one for foam tire carpet racing. The kit TC chassis has holes for both the front and rear posts though.
01-02-2009, 04:25 PM
akerman
What are the effects of akerman?
Is there a difference between shimming the servo saver or using position 1 on the steering knuckle.
Is it normal for the rear to always feel a alittle stiffer than the front
Is there a difference between shimming the servo saver or using position 1 on the steering knuckle.
Is it normal for the rear to always feel a alittle stiffer than the front
01-02-2009, 04:26 PM
This carpet track has some high traction and I'm wondering if the other cars that are doing well have an advantage due to the slightly stiffer chassis?
Last edited by STLNLST; 01-03-2009 at 12:45 AM.
01-02-2009, 04:32 PM
I haven't tried it on this car yeat but when I ran the MI2....going to the position 1 hole on the knuckle seemed to increase the steering response initially. The car seemed a bit too twitchy IMO I will try it out the next time on the rug though.
01-02-2009, 05:39 PM
This carpet track has some high traction and I'm wondering if the other cars that are doing well have an advantage due to the slightly stiffer chassis? The HB is 2.0 and the other cars ar 2.5. The BMI HB has a thicker chassis and offers stiffer posts. Scotty doesn't have a spare BMI chassis though
01-02-2009, 07:07 PM
that BMI setup is trash, i dumped that junk and got some genuine HB 3.6mm parts to stiffen the car up for foam tire use. the BMI kit made the passenger side rear CVD bind and it forced you to use T2 rear hinge pins. As soon as I put the genuine parts on the car felt sooooooo nice!
And how did the chassis cause the CVD to bind?
And as for the rear hinge pins its an extra tuning option the stock chassis dosen't offer for foam racing.