TimPotter

iTrader: (15)

Tino..... 13.5 man.... 13.5....

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

13.5 you say, I think I'll actually do that.

mac853

Hi for HB TC users.

Could somebody tell me what item# of the front steel drive shaft set of 3racing and HB for Cyclone TC, please

Best regards

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Don't use this parts !
my friend used in 1 pack battery easy to broke !
use HB la !

HB will in mid of this month arrive !

mac853

But which part # from HB ?
In the case the parts of the Cyclones change always, then i never drive any HPI/HB cars before, so confused!

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

#61043 44mm Heavy Duty Universal Drive Shaft (Front/Steel/2pcs)
#61044 44mm Heavy Duty Universal Drive Shaft (Rear/Steel/2pcs)

Thanks!

mac853

But that inside piece of axle is really the same length of the Cyclone TC using, isn' it?
Just because i took note of that new cars are using different arms?
How about in the compatibility, if the connection are the same?

Best regards

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Ver.2
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....roducts_id=555

Manny

Which driveshaft holds up best when using a spool? I currently have my choice of the MIP aluminum or the 3racing driveshafts but I want to get the ones that are the most durable. I know the 3racing ones have a bad reputation but I've just used them for a day of racing and they're fine (luckily no major crashes yesterday)

Jaz406

iTrader: (50)

I had the 3 racing caster blocks on my Cyclone and they did not last through one light crash with out bending so they get no more of my money

Jaz406

iTrader: (50)

I've got a Hacker 17.5 and it's great and compares equal to my Novak.

mac853

OK, then #61398 match 61043, isn'it?
Thanks!

But do they fit too the ver.3 spool(#61086) with these drive shafts?
Then, could somebody tell me why the HB shocks haven't hardware made by teflon, like shock pistons, why not like Tamiya is doing?

Best regards

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Hi guys

more prospec ball diff questions.

after exhausting most of my supply of standard diff (3/32 balls) I decided to jump on the bandwagon and placed my first order to rcmarket (good service btw).

I built the diff this weekend, I put the metal outdrives on straight away.

Now - is there a common mistake that people tend to do when building this baby? because in order to prevent it from slipping, I have to tighten it to unacceptable levels... Someone help me save a few minutes tonite as I'll pull it apart, degrease and reassemble (and yes I saw the post on page 497) and tell me straight away what I did wrong

Couple of more q's re that diff if I may

1- on the previous thrust bearing, hara's advice was to only use 7 balls... you guys all use 8 now with the 3mm inside diameter?
2- do you grease the main balls, or do you drop little dabs of grease in the spur holes and then drop the balls in?
3- the little HB pots of grease - are they as good as the legendary AE silicone and graphite grease, supposedly the best in the business, ever, which I'm beginning to get short of, and was thinking of reordering?
4- Q2 on the HB greases - wouldn't the grey one be exactly the same thing as Tamiya's AWG? it feels very similar...

Thanks for the advice all
Paul

tomracing

well perhaps you did the same as I first did when I got the new diff and built it without looking at the instructions...
and that is build it the sameway as the old one, where the bolt, thrust bearing and spring were put in one side of the diff and the plastic nut was inserted in the other side
actually if you look at the instructions of the new diff the bolt and thrust washer go in one end and the plastic nut and spring go in the other that made it a lot easier for me to tighten the diff

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Tom

I have to admit you made me nervous, but no, I dissassembled the whole thing yesterday and it was assembled properly.

I degreased all the way down to the last thrust ball, reassembled with AE black grease and stealth lube... it still was slipping a bit too much for my taste, but it's much better now it's broken it. Saturday is raceday, we'll see how it becomes after a couple of packs.

A couple of things are still making me nervous
1- I used the alloy outdrives. Where the "flat" is machined to lock the diff ring, there is a little "lip" which still shows where the old "circle" used to be (hope this is clear enough). I tried to sand it down to guarantee a flat surface for the ring to press on, but to no avail... This means the pressure won't be the same all around the rings, which means the rings will wear out at that very spot. this sucks.
2- when used "by hand" once mounted in the car, the diff feels ok (not xray ok, mind you, this is still miles away from my old car's (FK05) diff quality) when the right wheel is turned, but a bit gritty once you turn the left one...

Any perspective from our expert team drivers?

Thanks folks,

Paul