20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
10-07-2011, 10:32 AM
#4081
Tech Fanatic
Olly all blinking rc extras are expensive here and if you
shop abroad (china,usa) you get hit with an import
tax before they will deliver.
My TC6 was £350 iv'e seen them for the same in DOLLARS
thats why its good to ask i will hunt around for the new version.
Just paid £26.85 sorex 28's on my way home from work.!!!!!!!!
shop abroad (china,usa) you get hit with an import
tax before they will deliver.
My TC6 was £350 iv'e seen them for the same in DOLLARS
thats why its good to ask i will hunt around for the new version.
Just paid £26.85 sorex 28's on my way home from work.!!!!!!!!
10-08-2011, 01:36 AM
#4082
Tech Regular
Oil for diffgear
"Diff" oil and "Shock" oil are the same in that they are both silicon oil, just shock oil tends to have much lighter weights (Diff oil typically only goes down to 1000cst, shock oils down to 200cst or thinner). I would start with AE 80wt (1000cst), I really liked this on our high bite indoor track.
10-08-2011, 01:39 AM
#4083
Tech Regular
Gear oil
About oils.
Shock oil is like "slick fluid".
Gear oil is like "glue fluid, it glued or made more sticky fingers" when you
put it on skin.
Anyway, if y are hardcore y can use shock oil in gear diff but it can "quickly" go away ;-)
I just prefer 800cst diff oil (sticky fluid) then 800cst shock.
But all thing depend on what driver need.
Regards!
Shock oil is like "slick fluid".
Gear oil is like "glue fluid, it glued or made more sticky fingers" when you
put it on skin.
Anyway, if y are hardcore y can use shock oil in gear diff but it can "quickly" go away ;-)
I just prefer 800cst diff oil (sticky fluid) then 800cst shock.
But all thing depend on what driver need.
Regards!
So what oil best to use for the geardiff on low grip asphalt/tarmac outdoor, 13.5t. Please in WT.
What brands are there?
Where to buy these? (also in Europe)
10-08-2011, 01:49 AM
#4084
Tech Regular
1 mm hole in shock cap
"They have soft bladders out, and soon will have ECS shafts. I am testing a dual-arm steering setup and top-deck cutouts. The softer bladders are very nice --- I drilled a 1mm hole in the plastic cap and it makes zero rebound without a "foamy" feeling very easy to do."
I will some RSD soft bladers with 1-1-1.5 pistons soon.
Have you some feedback of dual arm steering ? Like TC4, but i have heard that TC3 steering was the reason why the TC3 was magic ?
Look at the Russian car steering....
"For the arms (especially the rear with toe-in) I just sanded near the arm mount where it might rub the bulkhead. This is essential if you run 2-3* toe-in with a narrow track width."
"I wouldn't mind titanium hinge pins myself "
I use lunsforg hinge pins, but i feel it is more smooth with standard ones, but in the order hand lunsford pins are lighters.
So the light of lunsford with the titanium smooth of the ballstud should be perferct.
Thank you for your answers
Fred
I will some RSD soft bladers with 1-1-1.5 pistons soon.
Have you some feedback of dual arm steering ? Like TC4, but i have heard that TC3 steering was the reason why the TC3 was magic ?
Look at the Russian car steering....
"For the arms (especially the rear with toe-in) I just sanded near the arm mount where it might rub the bulkhead. This is essential if you run 2-3* toe-in with a narrow track width."
"I wouldn't mind titanium hinge pins myself "
I use lunsforg hinge pins, but i feel it is more smooth with standard ones, but in the order hand lunsford pins are lighters.
So the light of lunsford with the titanium smooth of the ballstud should be perferct.
Thank you for your answers
Fred
Is that in the middle where the bolts go through it?
With what equipement do you rill the holes?
My former car was Corally RDX PHi09. Sold that but still have all kinds of springs for that car. Do these fit for the TC6? If so than I don't have to buy extra springs.
Last edited by Kensei; 10-08-2011 at 04:39 AM. Reason: additional question
10-08-2011, 03:03 AM
#4085
Tech Fanatic
As for oil, it also depends on your driving style and track layout, there isn't a miracle setup works for all, and also do you use gear diff front and back or rear and spool ?
I found 50wt rear working well with cleaning putty fine on front until it got too hot and car became very tail happy, I am going back to spool next week to start and depending on result will fit the front diff with heavy oil (100000) or putty again 9depending on temperature).
To buy oils, any shop will sale some, depending where you live (you do not say where in Europe) Apex models in UK is reliable.
10-08-2011, 03:45 AM
#4086
When you remove the caps, in the black part there is a small mark (moulding) drill this with a 1mm drill bit.
As for oil, it also depends on your driving style and track layout, there isn't a miracle setup works for all, and also do you use gear diff front and back or rear and spool ?
I found 50wt rear working well with cleaning putty fine on front until it got too hot and car became very tail happy, I am going back to spool next week to start and depending on result will fit the front diff with heavy oil (100000) or putty again 9depending on temperature).
To buy oils, any shop will sale some, depending where you live (you do not say where in Europe) Apex models in UK is reliable.
As for oil, it also depends on your driving style and track layout, there isn't a miracle setup works for all, and also do you use gear diff front and back or rear and spool ?
I found 50wt rear working well with cleaning putty fine on front until it got too hot and car became very tail happy, I am going back to spool next week to start and depending on result will fit the front diff with heavy oil (100000) or putty again 9depending on temperature).
To buy oils, any shop will sale some, depending where you live (you do not say where in Europe) Apex models in UK is reliable.
10-08-2011, 04:32 AM
#4087
Tech Regular
Shocks and geardiff
When you remove the caps, in the black part there is a small mark (moulding) drill this with a 1mm drill bit.
As for oil, it also depends on your driving style and track layout, there isn't a miracle setup works for all, and also do you use gear diff front and back or rear and spool ?
I found 50wt rear working well with cleaning putty fine on front until it got too hot and car became very tail happy, I am going back to spool next week to start and depending on result will fit the front diff with heavy oil (100000) or putty again 9depending on temperature).
To buy oils, any shop will sale some, depending where you live (you do not say where in Europe) Apex models in UK is reliable.
As for oil, it also depends on your driving style and track layout, there isn't a miracle setup works for all, and also do you use gear diff front and back or rear and spool ?
I found 50wt rear working well with cleaning putty fine on front until it got too hot and car became very tail happy, I am going back to spool next week to start and depending on result will fit the front diff with heavy oil (100000) or putty again 9depending on temperature).
To buy oils, any shop will sale some, depending where you live (you do not say where in Europe) Apex models in UK is reliable.
- as for gear oil: setup will be geardiff (Spec-R) in the rear, spool in the front. Low to medium traction asphalt tracks. Hear people using shock oil 35wt, 40wt and 45wt. Any suggestion after adding this additional info?
- I read somewhere that there is specific gear oil that is kind of different from shock oil. I live in The Netherlands. What brands of specifiek gear oil to purchase and where, apart from Apex models in UK?
- kit setup is a bit on the weak side? Where to adjust? (I see no one race with the kit setup)
As to springs? Go to silver in the back? I am used to race with 14,5 in the back and 17 in the front with my Corally RDX Phi09 that I sold now. With this car I almost everywhere used shockoil 35WT all around. Only on a very hot day sometimes 40WT.
14,5 back and 17 front, that would be silver in the back and blue in the front. Would that work? I've looked at some setupsheets on rc10.com and rcpetit.com and my preferences aren't used very much I think, that is fr17/b14,5 with 35WT)
- as to sway bars, any suggestions? (for short technical tracks and long fast tracks with long sweepers). For short techical tracks I used front and back 1.25mm and for long(er), faster tracks I used front 1.25mm and back 1.00mm. With the TC6 1.00mm isn't available and maybe not necessary? Would 1.50mm front and back be too stiff?
- as to camber? I am used to in front always between 1.5 and 2.0 and in the back always between 1.0 and 1.5. I think in most of the setupsheets I analysed the TC6 drivers are higher with camber especially in the front. Could that have something to do with the Corally RDX PHi09 having other chassischaracteristics than he TC6 I am going to purchase?
However in a roadtest that was in the German magazine "Car Modell" the author and testdriver used for instance camber 1,5/1,0.
10-08-2011, 07:01 AM
#4088
Tech Initiate
The stock steering setup definitely feels more aggressive, which is fine for stock classes. I really notice a difference with the dual arm setup with low turn motors/mod motors, and on larger or more flowing tracks. It gives smooth, precise steering. I am using the XRAY setup, but tinkering with placement and servo location.
Especialy the x ray dual arm sterring ?
Thank you for your help.
Best regards
Fred
10-08-2011, 07:58 AM
#4089
On high bite I like 16.5/15.5 front and 14.5 rear Reflex springs. For lower grip carpet and asphalt I like 14.5 front/12.5 rear, also Reflex springs.
On low grip asphalt and carpet I start with 20-30wt shock oil in the rear gear diff so it doesn't rotate as hard. When bite comes up, so does the thickness and I'll go to 70-80wt shock oil/1000 diff oil.
I have never used swaybars on the car. Personally I think it can be unnecessary weight and they can tweak. However, there are times they can be used. I just don't like them
I generally run 6* caster blocks with 1* camber front, and 1.5-2* rear.
Make sure you drill the 1mm so that it doesn't get too close to the edge of the bladder and such.
500k oil seems the equivalent of cleaning putty/eraser and works good. If you prefer putty/eraser be sure to add a bit of oil for lube.
I'll get pictures later! Still have to unpack from last night!
And the gear diffs held up to a 3.5 Orion brushless quite well. 70wt shock oil rear, putty/500k front. I wound up with the slipper spool up front for the main to get a bit more steering. I can see dual gear diffs working well on high bite carpet!
On low grip asphalt and carpet I start with 20-30wt shock oil in the rear gear diff so it doesn't rotate as hard. When bite comes up, so does the thickness and I'll go to 70-80wt shock oil/1000 diff oil.
I have never used swaybars on the car. Personally I think it can be unnecessary weight and they can tweak. However, there are times they can be used. I just don't like them
I generally run 6* caster blocks with 1* camber front, and 1.5-2* rear.
Make sure you drill the 1mm so that it doesn't get too close to the edge of the bladder and such.
500k oil seems the equivalent of cleaning putty/eraser and works good. If you prefer putty/eraser be sure to add a bit of oil for lube.
I'll get pictures later! Still have to unpack from last night!
And the gear diffs held up to a 3.5 Orion brushless quite well. 70wt shock oil rear, putty/500k front. I wound up with the slipper spool up front for the main to get a bit more steering. I can see dual gear diffs working well on high bite carpet!
10-08-2011, 10:53 AM
#4091
Keep in mind as the car turns it will rotate more because as the gears continue to turn the fluid feels "thinner" as it speeds up. Also, when you let off the throttle, the gears rotate better since there is no power applied. It takes getting used to in slower classes, especially front AND rear, but it is worth it. The increased corner speed is more noticeable on a smaller carpet track.
10-08-2011, 11:48 AM
#4092
Tech Fanatic
Exactly what happened with soft putty, I could rotate diff easily, funny thing is I remove the putty today and it was nice and stiff again.
10-09-2011, 12:28 PM
#4093
Tech Regular
Soft bladders
In what way are the soft bladders different from the ones in the kit?
Are they of thinner material, or so?
And if so, are they as durable as the ones in the kit?
What doe the soft bladders do for you, that is for the car, when racing it?
What about chassisflex?
XRay has a lot of options with screws here and there in there topdeck and chassis.
I realize that chassisflex especially on low grip asphalt is a must. But I prefer to tune the suspension.
How is it with chassisflex with the TC6?
Are there possibilities to tune the chassis and/or topdeck with screws in or out?
Or is it just the setup as in the kit? With all screws in?
Are they of thinner material, or so?
And if so, are they as durable as the ones in the kit?
What doe the soft bladders do for you, that is for the car, when racing it?
What about chassisflex?
XRay has a lot of options with screws here and there in there topdeck and chassis.
I realize that chassisflex especially on low grip asphalt is a must. But I prefer to tune the suspension.
How is it with chassisflex with the TC6?
Are there possibilities to tune the chassis and/or topdeck with screws in or out?
Or is it just the setup as in the kit? With all screws in?
Last edited by Kensei; 10-09-2011 at 01:21 PM.
10-09-2011, 01:32 PM
#4094
Im having an issue I dont recall being posted up about. Just getting my TC6 up and running and I put the servo in. The problem is the servo horn is hitting th bottom side of the top deck and flexing the top deck as I turn back and forth. Any solutions? I'm using a KO servo with the J servo arm.
10-09-2011, 01:52 PM
#4095
Finally Finished
Okay so Ive read all 4,093 posts for the TC6. Built my first kit. Ordered the first round of backup parts. And I'm ready to make my first post.
Build Review
Screws without numbers made the chassis very flat. (thanks forum)
1 CVA was very stiff, lots of work to loosen it up. I believe it was the pin slot that was too tight. Spent a ton of time cleaning up this issue.
This was my first on-road build. (previous builds SC10,B44) Tons of new parts, unfamiliar pieces, layers upon layers of parts and pieces.
Only two minor issues with the build that could be considered AE. With as many fittings that this kit has, Id say that's not too Bad.
Setup Questions
Id like to set this thing up with the bone stock setup as this will be my first TC try. (17.5 Non Boosted, Ozite Carpet, 70-90' straightaways)
Then try another setup for feel....Back to stock.....another setup.....till I understand what changes equate to what "feel" I get when I drive. Then I can go from whatever setup "feels" better, then personally adjust from there?
Sounds like the jury is still out on a lot of things, but sounds like everyone is happy with their purchase. Ill be getting a chance to try this thing out in November. Still plenty of work to do before the first race.
Build Review
Screws without numbers made the chassis very flat. (thanks forum)
1 CVA was very stiff, lots of work to loosen it up. I believe it was the pin slot that was too tight. Spent a ton of time cleaning up this issue.
This was my first on-road build. (previous builds SC10,B44) Tons of new parts, unfamiliar pieces, layers upon layers of parts and pieces.
Only two minor issues with the build that could be considered AE. With as many fittings that this kit has, Id say that's not too Bad.
Setup Questions
Id like to set this thing up with the bone stock setup as this will be my first TC try. (17.5 Non Boosted, Ozite Carpet, 70-90' straightaways)
Then try another setup for feel....Back to stock.....another setup.....till I understand what changes equate to what "feel" I get when I drive. Then I can go from whatever setup "feels" better, then personally adjust from there?
Sounds like the jury is still out on a lot of things, but sounds like everyone is happy with their purchase. Ill be getting a chance to try this thing out in November. Still plenty of work to do before the first race.