Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread >

Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree333Likes

Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-07-2016, 07:24 AM
  #3796  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 27
Default

Has the final drive ratio changed with the new 3 gear.
Marvel is offline  
Old 10-07-2016, 07:35 AM
  #3797  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
jmcelroy42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,079
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

No
jmcelroy42 is offline  
Old 10-07-2016, 07:41 AM
  #3798  
Tech Master
Thread Starter
 
BentKa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,380
Default

Originally Posted by Marvel
Has the final drive ratio changed with the new 3 gear.
No, diff and topshaft are the same.

Bent
BentKa is offline  
Old 10-07-2016, 08:13 AM
  #3799  
JAE
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,974
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

If ease of conversion/convenience plays a role in your decision in buggy selection, the xb2 is the easiest buggy to change diffs, gearboxes, etc with minimal work. My 2 cents
Originally Posted by mupchu
I am trying to choose a new buggy, and while one track near me is going carpet, there is also a dirt track going up. So if not sure which kit to buy, and i'd like to be able to setup car to run either . . . is it cheaper to get carpet and get the parts to convert, or vice versa? To be honest I am leaning towards the dirt version if I can simply convert it to laydown if I need it.


any thoughts?
JAE is offline  
Old 10-07-2016, 08:16 AM
  #3800  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Seattle, Wa.
Posts: 55
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Are the 3 gear parts available anywhere yet? I've called a couple of the main parts stores for Xray, but they don't have them yet......
cyclebrkr is offline  
Old 10-07-2016, 08:24 AM
  #3801  
Tech Master
Thread Starter
 
BentKa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,380
Default

Originally Posted by cyclebrkr
Are the 3 gear parts available anywhere yet? I've called a couple of the main parts stores for Xray, but they don't have them yet......
A few shops in Europe have them, but not sure all distributors have ordered them.

And not all shipments have reached every corner of the world yet.

You have to remember the new kit is still not officially released yet and the kits obviously have priority on the new parts.

But production is going full speed so most distributors and shops will have stock of the new parts very soon

Bent
BentKa is offline  
Old 10-07-2016, 08:33 AM
  #3802  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Seattle, Wa.
Posts: 55
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the info!
cyclebrkr is offline  
Old 10-07-2016, 09:58 AM
  #3803  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
 
symmetricon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: houston
Posts: 4,882
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

If you wanna get the 3 gear parts in the US call up RCAMERICA... parts should arrive Oct 20-25th
symmetricon is offline  
Old 10-07-2016, 11:05 AM
  #3804  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 4,596
Trader Rating: 166 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BentKa
Parts needed to convert XB2 CE from a 4 gear laydown to a 3 gear setup:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031

Bent
Any word on updates to the Dirt edition?
jpcopeland1 is offline  
Old 10-07-2016, 11:16 AM
  #3805  
Tech Master
Thread Starter
 
BentKa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,380
Default

Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Any word on updates to the Dirt edition?
As mentioned previously an updated Dirt Edition is still a couple of months away

Bent
BentKa is offline  
Old 10-08-2016, 01:03 PM
  #3806  
MiQ
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 36
Default



I got the xb2 '17 here in europe. First 2wd buggy for me and addition beside the xb4 '16. Built it friday and raced it today in local "winter season opener race". Build was effortless again, xray quality (so much less work to build than 4wd part wise).

Kit comes straight with 2x1.6 and 2x1.7 which is nice! I built it straigth with the kit setup. We have medium grip tight carpet track and the car was great, maybe little more turning in should been good but still manageable. I managed to get win in my first 2wd race, 2nd place was xb2 '17 also. First test in practise rounds was at morning!

In the build manual there was in the instructions 3x1.7 pistons for back, I had to double check. More proof reading next time

Question for Bentka. I'm going to get the needed alu bits etc. for EOS carpet but we have in our winter series with low to medium grip indoor concrete/quarry tile style tight tracks. Can you list in order which option parts are good to have in lower grip, considering value/effectiveness. The graphite chassis in example seems to be expensive and much work for one weekend at lower grip track, if you catch my drift. Thanks

Last edited by MiQ; 10-09-2016 at 12:06 PM.
MiQ is offline  
Old 10-08-2016, 06:59 PM
  #3807  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 4,596
Trader Rating: 166 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BentKa
As mentioned previously an updated Dirt Edition is still a couple of months away

Bent
Cool, in no hurry to change anything. Car is really good after another day of racing, tuning. I really like it now. I ended up with Yokomo Green rear springs, and that fixed the butt bounce. Car is great.
jpcopeland1 is offline  
Old 10-09-2016, 12:34 AM
  #3808  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 189
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Any of you lucky punters that already have the '17 able to list the differences to the '16 car? My current YZ2 CA is due for a replacement and a XB2 is on my radar.
Glarke is offline  
Old 10-09-2016, 12:37 AM
  #3809  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 2,907
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default

Anybody have a Mod setup for the XB2 dirt edition for clay (medium/high bite) track?
Phillip F is offline  
Old 10-09-2016, 07:42 AM
  #3810  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (13)
 
RobsRacin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: CT
Posts: 900
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Finally have my car really good, other than needing just a smidge more steering for our tight turf track. The car is perfect through the sweepers and lesser angle corners, but just doesnt have enough in the 180's and I have to stab the brake to get the car to rotate. Would a longer link up front help that at all? Im running center on the tower, and inside on the hub(inside as towards the car and not towards the wheel). Im not sure if I want to try to loosen the rear up as if it gets any looser in the rear it may want to step out on the sweeper.
RobsRacin is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.