Shameless121

iTrader: (5)

Question for everyone... Is anyone having front or rear or both diffs leaking oil? I had to rebuild both of mine yesterday after it's first time out on the track. Anyone know the cause or a solution? I'm using stock diff oil in both front and rear... Help!! Thanks

hacker

iTrader: (141)

just a note for people wanting to put sway bars on this car and thinking of buying ta05 version to fit.

they have a ta06 sway bar kit #54309
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54309

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

iirc, this set has softer bars overall. so instead of the hardest bar, a softest bar has been added.

Hurricane Sonic

this is how I modify it to install servo on RHS...


only grind this part flat on both side...


because the steering arm is grind-ed add 7mm shim here and 1mm between the arm and the steering rod...


another side just install the arm like how the manual told u...


whole view, make sure it is smooth and not too loose...

the chassis is no need to grind like mine, it won't affect the movement...

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

The carbon reinforced chassis cant come out fast enough! This one has an insane amount of flex!

masterhit

iTrader: (16)

Do you feel it is too flexy for racing, or is there another application that you feel a stiffer chassis is better (i.e. drifting)?

I have raced mine on medium bite carpet and the car was very competitive in stock form. With minimal tuning and a base set-up it was within a few tenths of my BD5W in blinky stock. I attribute the time difference more to a lack of a ball diff in the rear and minimal track time with the car.

Mike Slaughter

hacker

iTrader: (141)

it would be good to see if you put a spool and ball diff on your ta06 and see if you get the same or better lap times against a $600 car

masterhit

iTrader: (16)

That was kinda my point for buying it! I was curious about that myself.

To be fair though, it really ends up being a $400+ car (before shipping, speedtech + tower prices). A screw kit is a must to prevent owner suicide, as aluminum hexes and XB blocks to get some more toe in it.

To survive our Midwest carpet tracks were tight lanes and 2"x4"s are the norm titanium turnbuckles are a must have as well over the Tamiya aluminum ones.

Then the massive diet plan my car went on, with low profile servo, new mylaps small transponder, leaving off any unnecessary plastic bits, aluminum screws, Tekin with lighter wire, etc.....

And then there was the millwork this weekend to make motors fit better, and different batteries fit better, and a cut-out beneath the motor to aid in cooling....

All of a sudden a "luxury" car doesn't sound that expensive.... But no were near as much fun!

Mike Slaughter

Bappe

well if you want to be that serious then you might want to go to the 417

important upgrades what i feel is:

rollbars
screwkit in alu or titsnium(i always learn at least one new bad word when building a car with phillip screws..)
suspension blocks in alu
wheel hexes in alu
caster block in graphite

this will make the car better in handling and more durable

and when tamiya releases all the plastic bits in grahite then those will be a hot ticket too

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

Measuring droop is hard on this because of the chassis. The point where the droop screws touch the chassis is so soft that you can actually see the area sag down from the preload of the shocks. The rear is ok, but it is especially bad at the front. When you measure droop, you have to put into account this sag also. Just eye out the droop and make sure the L/R wheels touch the ground evenly. Love how you can fix tweak by twisting the chassis with your hands

But I'm not dissing the car in anyway. My lap times are right there with the other high end cars. Just some kinks that need to be straightened out. Just wish it was lighter. My car is 1420g, while the other cars are just above 1350g. The CF reinforced parts are lighter, I really hope tamiya releases them soon.

masterhit

iTrader: (16)

I have a BD5W, and all the BD5WX bits sitting on the bench, and a TC6..... It is all about the layout for me.

Luckily I resisted making a crack like "Why would I want a 417 when I have a real car (BD5W) already"?

I agree with the castor blocks and roll-bars. So, it is now a $420-470 with the roll-bars and depending on how many of the blocks are replaced with aluminum and if you go for the titanium screw kit......

I'm all about the stock chassis however. Built up with the battery mounted I feel the flex is pretty decent.

Of course, my opinion only.... For it's respective TCS class I'm sure it will be a killer!

Mike Slaughter

hacker

iTrader: (141)

the car can be had for $200, post around $35 depending on location.

you don't need ti screws, just replace with hex screws the ones you think you will most likely need to undo, like access to diffs, battery tray.
You don't need alu blocks. There are alot of items you don't need, however they are options should you wish to make your wallet lighter.

personally, I don't think I'm going to bother with the sway bars, there is hardly any roll generated from the layout. I could do with 3.5degree rear toe in, so will get the appropriate block, so $12. Maybe a spool, $15. Wheel hex's, I got some 3racing ones for $10

At the end of the day it will still feel good when you can say "you got beaten by a plastic car!"

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

Believe it or not, this car rolls quite a lot. When I installed sway bars, the car became even more planted. I would change to alum blocks especially the front. The plastic ones will break on a bad crash.

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

You can try shoogoo-ing a piece of cutter blade break-off at where the grub screw lands on, hat will help prevent it from digging into the chassis and give a bit more accurate reading.

Bappe

well the car doesnt get sooo expensive (yet )

car: $218
rollbars: 13.5
sus blocks: 34 (tamiya split and yeah racing solids)
wheel hexes: 6.4 (3racing)
Screws (only have steel hex screws right now) 20
carbon caster block 5.9

total: $298.8

the car is still about $250 away from the 417!

all parts are bought from stellamodels.net and rcmart.com


alu blocks is needed, at least the D block in the back, i got hit from behind and the right suspension just collapsed, turned out that the hinge pin had POPPED OUT from the block! ther plastic is way to soft in the blocks