Hot Bodies Cyclone
03-16-2010, 05:37 AM
03-16-2010, 07:34 AM
I also usually run with un-cut top decks since i feel it gets inconsistent (especially when cutting the front deck). In Poland though i cut the rear deck to get the rear stable since the track was HUGE.
Me and M Vassmar (T3) has had some great racing this season in our regional series but i've always been a couple of seconds behind both on high and low traction. This weekend i took TQ with 0.2 seconds and the car feels a lot more consistent than before. In the finals i had the win until a lapped car spun out on front, we crashed and i had to settle for second.
Another tip i have for you all is something i got told by Hiro, is lowering the front knuckle a bit, i lowered it 0.7 mm.
I went back and forth a lot with this in Poland, i always ended with it lowered since the car felt alot more consistent in the sweepers making it traction roll less.
I also run 2 degree blocks in front, my chassis with steel holders did not have the RF holes drilled so i did them in a mill at work.
Last edited by Tommy Bergfeldt; 03-16-2010 at 01:41 PM.
03-16-2010, 08:08 AM
Hey guys, I asked a few days ago about solving a rear traction problem with my cyclone and I am working on the changes. Does anyone know what changes to the front diff might help rear traction or help stop the rear from overtaking the front? I am currently running a solid front drive. Would it be better to go to a ball diff or one way up front? 
AME rear shock tower has 2mm higher shock mounting holes so when you put shocks on the car, piston position will be lowered by 2mm. Lower piston position means that more oil volume above the piston (more pack). It will generate more traction overall. It might be cause of the push problem next, but like Tommy suggested, you can add extra steering by lowering the spindles.
Thanks,
03-16-2010, 09:29 AM
Good run Hiro !! I cant believe I choked with a lead...oh well, The guys told me that you would of caught me anyways your car was faster. I hope you run the series.
03-16-2010, 10:10 AM
As Hiro said, I have some rear grip problems with this car on carpet... So I tried the AME rear shock tower. That thing is a godsend... totally transformed my car. The rear end was so much more stable. Since it's taller, it extends the shock more. That puts the piston more at the bottom of the shock itself, creating more pack. That pack keeps the weight in the rear from just flopping all over the place... so it's much more stable in those really quick transitions.
I also have tried the lowered steering knuckle. It's supposed to balance out the static roll center a little better. Try it with 1.5mm under the front suspension blocks. It works very well when combined with the AME rear tower. It feels like more grip overall when the two of these are combined.
-Korey
03-16-2010, 10:18 AM
I like the chassis a lot, feels a bit more consistent in every condition.
I also usually run with un-cut top decks since i feel it gets inconsistent (especially when cutting the front deck). In Poland though i cut the rear deck to get the rear stable since the track was HUGE.
I also usually run with un-cut top decks since i feel it gets inconsistent (especially when cutting the front deck). In Poland though i cut the rear deck to get the rear stable since the track was HUGE.
-Korey
03-16-2010, 11:03 AM
I like the chassis a lot, feels a bit more consistent in every condition.
I also usually run with un-cut top decks since i feel it gets inconsistent (especially when cutting the front deck). In Poland though i cut the rear deck to get the rear stable since the track was HUGE.
Me and M Vassmar (T3) has had some great racing this season in our regional series but i've always been a couple of seconds behind both on high and low traction. This weekend i took TQ with 0.2 seconds and the car feels a lot more consistent than before. In the finals i had the win until a lapped car spun out on front, we crashed and i had to settle for second.
Another tip i have for you all is something i got told by Hiro, is lowering the front knuckle a bit, i lowered it 0.7 mm.
I went back and forth a lot with this in Poland, i always ended with it lowered since the car felt alot more consistent in the sweepers making it traction less.
I also run 2 degree blocks in front, my chassis with steel holders did not have the RF holes drilled so i did them in a mill at work.
I also usually run with un-cut top decks since i feel it gets inconsistent (especially when cutting the front deck). In Poland though i cut the rear deck to get the rear stable since the track was HUGE.
Me and M Vassmar (T3) has had some great racing this season in our regional series but i've always been a couple of seconds behind both on high and low traction. This weekend i took TQ with 0.2 seconds and the car feels a lot more consistent than before. In the finals i had the win until a lapped car spun out on front, we crashed and i had to settle for second.
Another tip i have for you all is something i got told by Hiro, is lowering the front knuckle a bit, i lowered it 0.7 mm.
I went back and forth a lot with this in Poland, i always ended with it lowered since the car felt alot more consistent in the sweepers making it traction less.
I also run 2 degree blocks in front, my chassis with steel holders did not have the RF holes drilled so i did them in a mill at work.
view your car in the photos on RedRC, ETS site!
and I saw the mod FF on your chassis!
Unfortunately, this Sunday I had a crash with another rider, and broke exotek chassis, in the hole Rear/Right of diff bukehead!
and ruined the seat pivot ball of RF + ruined the seat pivot ball of RR 3°
Disaster!
I now look if you can adjust!
I'm really pissed off this thing!
-
I removed the original lipo battery brace, and I installed this(battery brace TOP Racing + torsional control HB for Spacer), I found myself very well, balanced car and weight only 1343g
see if you can help this configuration
03-16-2010, 11:38 AM
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03-16-2010, 01:05 PM
Korey, are you still running the front end mod on your Exotec ? If so 2 deg or 1.5 deg ?
I found my old AME rear tower and I think I'm going to give it a try. With my Exotek I found that I couldn't keep the rear end under the car, hopefully this should help.
What tires are you running and are you running carpet or asphault ?
Thanks Hiro/Korey !!!!
I found my old AME rear tower and I think I'm going to give it a try. With my Exotek I found that I couldn't keep the rear end under the car, hopefully this should help.
What tires are you running and are you running carpet or asphault ?
Thanks Hiro/Korey !!!!
03-16-2010, 07:27 PM
internal gear ratio
Just wondering if anyone else has tried this and got the same results.
With the new speed controllers the FDR has gone from what used to be 3.5ish in spec classes up to over 6 and 7. To get the gearing easier I changed from the 18T pulleys to the old 16T pulleys.. with the same FDR the engine was 10 degrees cooler.. I thought the 16T pulleys were meant to have more rolling resistance therefor making the motor hotter. This doesn't appear to be the case well from what I saw.. it was done on different days so I was just wondering if other have noticed this or tried this with the higher FDR values.
Cheers
With the new speed controllers the FDR has gone from what used to be 3.5ish in spec classes up to over 6 and 7. To get the gearing easier I changed from the 18T pulleys to the old 16T pulleys.. with the same FDR the engine was 10 degrees cooler.. I thought the 16T pulleys were meant to have more rolling resistance therefor making the motor hotter. This doesn't appear to be the case well from what I saw.. it was done on different days so I was just wondering if other have noticed this or tried this with the higher FDR values.
Cheers
03-16-2010, 11:44 PM
Hi Tommy Bergfeldt,
Do you mind to share your setup at the recent ETS Poland? would appreciate that as i will be joining a big car pet race in Asia soon. Cheers!
Do you mind to share your setup at the recent ETS Poland? would appreciate that as i will be joining a big car pet race in Asia soon. Cheers!
03-17-2010, 12:18 AM
I figured I'd post up my setup from this weekend from our big carpet race. Enjoy!!!
03-17-2010, 12:59 AM
Here's my ETS rd4 in Poland setup 
03-17-2010, 02:12 AM
Many thanks to both Korey and Tommy for the setups!
Tommy, just some curiosity i hope u can clarify
1) why did u use older pro 4 arms? is it simply becos of the durability or becos of it being a better setup for steering?
2) I notice u used standard hex at front, while ure using both FF and FR blocks at 1.5. Tat means ure running wider width at front compared to ur rear. Does this gives u better cornering since its larger track in Poland? If smaller track, will u stil use wider front or narrower front for better steering and reaction?
3) Lastly, are u using the pro 4 UJ which is slightly longer to accomodate the longer width when using the FF n FR blocks mod?
Thank you so much in advance and i wish you all the best in your comin race. Cheers!
Tommy, just some curiosity i hope u can clarify
1) why did u use older pro 4 arms? is it simply becos of the durability or becos of it being a better setup for steering?
2) I notice u used standard hex at front, while ure using both FF and FR blocks at 1.5. Tat means ure running wider width at front compared to ur rear. Does this gives u better cornering since its larger track in Poland? If smaller track, will u stil use wider front or narrower front for better steering and reaction?
3) Lastly, are u using the pro 4 UJ which is slightly longer to accomodate the longer width when using the FF n FR blocks mod?
Thank you so much in advance and i wish you all the best in your comin race. Cheers!
03-17-2010, 02:42 AM
I like the chassis a lot, feels a bit more consistent in every condition.
I also usually run with un-cut top decks since i feel it gets inconsistent (especially when cutting the front deck). In Poland though i cut the rear deck to get the rear stable since the track was HUGE.
Me and M Vassmar (T3) has had some great racing this season in our regional series but i've always been a couple of seconds behind both on high and low traction. This weekend i took TQ with 0.2 seconds and the car feels a lot more consistent than before. In the finals i had the win until a lapped car spun out on front, we crashed and i had to settle for second.
Another tip i have for you all is something i got told by Hiro, is lowering the front knuckle a bit, i lowered it 0.7 mm.
I went back and forth a lot with this in Poland, i always ended with it lowered since the car felt alot more consistent in the sweepers making it traction roll less.
I also run 2 degree blocks in front, my chassis with steel holders did not have the RF holes drilled so i did them in a mill at work.
I also usually run with un-cut top decks since i feel it gets inconsistent (especially when cutting the front deck). In Poland though i cut the rear deck to get the rear stable since the track was HUGE.
Me and M Vassmar (T3) has had some great racing this season in our regional series but i've always been a couple of seconds behind both on high and low traction. This weekend i took TQ with 0.2 seconds and the car feels a lot more consistent than before. In the finals i had the win until a lapped car spun out on front, we crashed and i had to settle for second.
Another tip i have for you all is something i got told by Hiro, is lowering the front knuckle a bit, i lowered it 0.7 mm.
I went back and forth a lot with this in Poland, i always ended with it lowered since the car felt alot more consistent in the sweepers making it traction roll less.
I also run 2 degree blocks in front, my chassis with steel holders did not have the RF holes drilled so i did them in a mill at work.