Paul L

Thanks!

The Vid is a bit cheesy, LOL but it gets the point across

cool!

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Paul, is this just for the heavy weight? In the Xray manual it only lists filling the diff approximately half way when using lighter weight fluids. Do you fill your diff like this on rebuilds regardless of weight?

I have been using a front diff for a while but only filled it up with the recommended amount. What I notice is it is stiff when first turned but as you move the fluid around it gets easier. I imagine at the end of a race the front is pretty loose. I will give this a shot.

Also, my car seems super dialed when I put it on the track and I can be pretty aggressive with it. As the race progresses I notice I am either losing speed or the other cars are speeding up. Kinda like I am loosing my edge.

What are some things I can look at? I am running a stock t4 setup with the exception of a front diff with 500,000 cst fluid.

Our track is very small and very technical. Lots of point and shoot corners. I actually drive it more fluid but the field I race against is very point and shoot. I get slammed into a lot!

robk

iTrader: (22)

Paul check your PM

Tekin Prodigy

iTrader: (73)

Hey Paul, It's Chad from Jeffs RC Studio. Hope everything is going well. I wanted to pick your brain a little bit about several questions so bare with me please. First, at nats, I know the traction was high, and you have that on your setup sheet, and you ran 2.3 all the way around, with 350 cst oil, basically very soft. Lately some of your setups like at the ETS Final are stiffer, 2.5-2.8 front, 2.5 rear, 3 hole pistons, and so forth and the traction was medium. It is my understanding from the xray setup book, softer setup creates traction, and is advised on lower traction tracks. Basically, opposite of what your are doing. So who is right, you or the Xray setup book haha? Basically please explain your reasonings for these choices...

Secondly, The trending choice of running a thicker rear diff oil has become apparent of late. I myself have gone up to 3000 in the rear, and like it. I see others like yourself and hagberg using 4-5000 cst lately. Can you elaborate on this and how it effects the handling of the T4 and why it is becoming popular.

Lastly, ever since running your mod motor at Jeffs, I have been itching to run mod more. I just put a 4.5 in my car and was curious if you can explain, which you have 100 times on hear probably, but can you explain how you run your front and rear belt tension for mod vs someone who runs stock, which I know you dont.

Anddd haha im kidding, im done. Thanks for taking your time and answering questions on hear Paul. Have a good day.

Troy Carter

iTrader: (22)

Hey Paul,

Thanks for coming out to Leisure Hours a couple weeks back. It was nice to speak to you and thanks for your help with the car.

I didn’t get the chance to run that car in the main after I crashed coming around to the line and broke the car but it was really great to watch you and Andrew drive. I bet I learned 10x watching that round than racing in it.

This past weekend I switched from the 2.3-2.6 springs with associated 30w (350csi) oil all around to the 2.5-2.8 springs with 32.5 (388). I thought it would be a bit more twitchy with the firm springs/oil but that didn’t seem to be the case. The car didn’t jerk as much as I sawed on the controls and seemed to settle better going from brake to turn. Also, the fast sweeper was easier to navigate with the firm springs it seems. So, bottom line to me is that it was easier to drive.

It was a new layout so I don’t know if I was faster or not but it sure seemed better like that. For me, the car is really good right now and I think I’m going to leave the setup pretty close to where it is now and just try to drive better the rest of the year. Maybe small tweaks where needed but nothing major I think.

So the real question I have…Can you make your hats in something other than black or white? Blue or grey maybe?

Thanks,

Fladust

iTrader: (1)

Hey Paul,

It's Dustin from Jeff's RC Studio. I'm curious about droop its effects and what you suggest is a good start point, and how it changes from class to class.

yodace

iTrader: (8)

Is there a write up on the hagburg mod somewhere?

Troy Carter

iTrader: (22)

hagberg mod

Paul L

Hi, Sorry for the delay in my response. I pretty much fill all my diffs all the way up and let the extra oil leak out when im putting it together, this way it is always totally full. I would first try rebuilding your 500K front diff and make sure their is no air. If it still feels like it is changing threw the run then i would try something thicker to begin with, maybe 1million. It sounds like it will be WAY thicker but i think you will be surprised that it will be a nice step thicker, same when going from 1million to the 2.5million. It is possible that your drop off in the run is from the front diff thinning out, other than that it could be a number of things, Power, balance of your set up etc. So try the diff first and we will go from their.
I will be releasing Pre built Xray diffs and ECS shafts on teamgravityrc.com very soon .

Thanks!

Done. Thank you sir!

Hi Chad. LOL, no problem. When it comes to set up I dont think their is ever a True rule of thumb, Basically i went away from my nats style set up at ETS because i was getting smoked, and with a stiffer set up like alex, I still got smoked, lol. I generally do run softer set ups when the bite is high though, the car drives less edgy and carries more corner speed for me normally.

Thicker rear diff oil is a trend but with it the cars are getting harder to drive off of the corner, I still feel like 2 or 3K is still the most preferred. 4k will do a faster hot lap but it is a very fine line to being out of control. It is really difficult to run a thick rear diff on a low bite track.

I like to run my front belt on the tight side and my rear belt on the loose side. I feel like on corner exit the car is easier to drive. With the rear belt being so short i feel like with equal tension the rear belt will have more initial drive, (short belt = less slack and less stretching under load), so running the front belt a bit snug and the rear a bit loose helps with this.

hope that all helps. Thanks!

Hi Troy, Glad that you found a set up that you are a bit more comfortable with!. As i said above i think that set ups can go either direction for certain circumstances. It has been a while since i tested a stiff Vs soft package at LH. next time i am their i will try it. Thanks.
As for the hats I will price it out with my next order, I am almost out now anyways. Not sure i can afford to have 2 or 4 more hat PN's though.

Thanks!!

Hi Dustin. I normally start at 3mm's above ride height. If i need the car to rotate more in the center of the corner i will take a hair out of the front and add a bit to the rear. if i need more stability i will decrease the rear. In any case i will rarely go less than 2mms or more than 4.5mms above ride height anywhere. as for different classes I dont know, I think i would just tune to the car no matter what motor.

Thanks


Thanks!!

Paul L

The Gravity Pro Shop has a few cool new things on it now. First The "Old school weight" is fully in stock, The Black and chrome looks sweet. Second I just posted the "EXPERT BUILT" Section which is in limited quantity and actually competitively priced for what you get. Check it out. Thanks!

Troy Carter

iTrader: (22)

I'm not too worried about the color, I'm rockin' a black one as of today. I just prefer something other than black or white.



Interesting thing is that my T3 '12 car was very twitchy and I switched to a softer setup and the car was much better proving that there isn't a set in stone rule of thumb for setup. Thanks again for the help.

Paul L

Thanks for the support!

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Yeah, those prices are getting! Can you elaborate on the difference between the front and rear diffs? Looks like the out drives? I have just ran the normal out drives in the front.

Paul L

The front diff having the heavy oil in it has a much larger chance of the blade coming off and wrecking the standard aluminum outdrive, if that happens with the spring steel outdrive it will not ruin anything, this is why i include the spring steel outdrives with the front diff only. also the standard aluminum outdrive has more chance of expanding in the slot for the blade or breaking. This is only a concern for the front diff with the heavy oil or putty as it goes threw more load because of its thick nature. The front diffs are basically made to be bullet proof and rarely if not never rebuilt. This reflects on the cost of a rear diff and a front diff on the site, If you click on the product, it gives the Xray part numbers and a total retail price of the assembly. Prolly not the cheapest on line but not the most expensive either and its the only pre assembled.

Thanks!

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

oops, i meant great! stupid autocorrect.