MaxSp97

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Jason for the GREAT PRODUCT
I sold the 12R5 and got the DB12RR and it's the RIGHT choice.
The DB12RR is first time on the track "No practice" qualified 2 and finished 3.
The kit set up and Jason suggested the car is SOOOO easy to drive.
The car is enjoyable to drive but my driving skill is not...
I geared for SP17.5 with 55/88 the motor was a little warm and I ran out of pinions.

Calvin,

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Thanks buddy. Im glad you like the car. Thanks for the kind words

SpraydbySprague

iTrader: (64)

Jason YGPM.

jawa

iTrader: (3)

Here is my new DB12R which I wanted to use with A123 batteries (6.6V 2x1100 mah 2S2P configuration). It was not easy to place everything but I managed to make it fit. After several trial runs, I am very pleased with the driving and the handling of the car on asphalt. Thanks to Jason for his advices on setup.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Thats pretty cool buddy. Its nice to see people trying new things.

vctr1

iTrader: (16)

Jason,
whats the difference between the 12R and the 12RR...

protc3

iTrader: (13)

The differences are that the 12RR has a wider pod to center the brushless motors and also allows for taller gearing,Shock location is changes and front to rear weight bias is also shifted forward a little, The flex plates now have a long and a short fixed mounting position to allow for more adjustment, We slotted the servo holes to now be able to fit any mini servo available, and the damper tubes are a little shorter.

PHI/BMI racer

Hey all, these changes may seem small, but they made a huge difference on the car. The R was already a great car, but the RR took another second off my lap times and has stabilized the overall consistency

SlowerOne

This usually happens when using the O Ring to hold the batteries in. When you hit something, the cells move forward, hit the shock (hard!) which either breaks the ball stud, or the shock cap.

What you have done is moved the shock well out of the way, but I find that making the front of the shock higher makes the car turn in less. If you use tape to hold the cells in, then the problem doesn't happen, and you get the sharp handling back again. HTH

jasonb

Not entirly true auntie Pete

If you have a fully comitted accident you can bend the ballstud (even the medium one) I have bent a couple recently with the cells taped in mainly when you clip the inside track marker in a high speed corner then hit the outside one backwards

See you in the morning.

Jason

1rcracer

Hey team driver!!!

Now u gotta drive that car faster.... u know the pre-nats dont mean anything... Lets see at the Nats....

Keep the peace!!
and leave the neighbour alone!!!
hehehehe

Dartanian

Yeah, you cant corner cut the horse shoe at nats...

GLITTER LIDZ

iTrader: (2)

your paint job is very much like the DB12R, simple, effective, and just plain works, gotta love em both.

3rd-dan

Hi guys,

got some questions.
Perhaps they answered few sites before but i donīt wanted to read 240 pages.

So here they are.

Are the Bearings in the car similar to the CRC Generation X ?
Can i mount the alloy upper arm mounts, 1/12 Front End Pro-Brace and spacers for the rear axle for shiming out from crc?
Wich parts should i buy with my car, break easily?

I saw the db12r live at a local race driven by a good friend of mine.
Looks very good.

I stopped racing 1 year ago but now i want to race again.

And this car ( db12rr ) is my fav to buy.

I had the SP12X by corally but i wasnt as fast as with my old G3.

Hope to get some answers.

SpraydbySprague

iTrader: (64)

Yes the bearings are the same size for the rear axle and the front wheels on the GenX and DB12RR.

You can use the alloy upper arm mounts and brace, but they are not necessary at all. Just run the front end with the box stock parts.

If you are talking about the 1/4" i.d. shims CRC sells for the rear axle, yes they will work. I use the machined aluminum spacers BMI makes for the rear axle. Part #DB4050. Makes centering the axle so much easier.

As far as spares pick up some; lower front arms, 8-32 aluminum screws for the front arms, flex plates, a spare center pivot, brass king pin shims and nylon castor shims (in case you drop one of the little buggers ), front foam bumpers (from BMI, not Parma), some body posts, maybe some optional front end springs (get the linear front springs, very nice). Oh yea, pick up a package of DB4017, it's the little screw for the left clamp hub. The screw is an odd size, and if you ever need to replace it, they are nice to have on hand.

Here's a few optional parts you may want to consider later. DB5314, DB5315, and DB4316. These are the alloy ride height adjusters for the front end, very nice. DB5305 is a cool looking carbon fiber servo saver brace. I haven't broken a servo saver in years, but it's carbon fiber, so it's cool! . Of course don't forget the ultimate performance enhancing device, a BMI t shirt!


The car is quite durable, I still have the original front arms from the beginning of the season. The trick is to pre tap the mounting screw holes with an 8-32 tap. This will prevent the screw holes in the lower arms from stretching and possibly cracking.

At my local track. I've broken a couple of flex plates, and worn out some front bumpers and body posts. But that's about it. Hope this helps.

I made the jump from the SP12X to the BMI DB12RR and I'm never looking back! You will be quite pleased with the car and the company.