abusedrc

I would think it would be a little higher, can someone double check the math?

Con

around 20 mph is right

Boomer

that sounds about right.

fzr phil

Hi,
received my graphite tub + bits today from associated for $19.99 , ($15.75 postage )

tot's up to around £17 woo hoo!

I mainly run 1/12th, but have had my tc4 for a couple of years. last times i ran it i broke the rear toe block again. got myself a 2nd hand alloy one to try now. run a ko 746 servo with a kimbrough servo saver - broke 3 sets of plastic gears before
last few runs have been with ss5800 bl + foams but my local club is 27t only, might try it on rubbers (indoor carpet). alreadt have steel diffs, spring kit. next is the shock upgrade kit and new bodyshell.

all the best

Phil

cheech4

iTrader: (2)

im running into a problem, i upgrqaded the composite outdrives of the tc4 to the HGI alloy out drive, I have the T nut kit its all installed. i replaced the diff rings when i ran the car the diff came loose. I was spiining inside but it wasnt catching the outdrives it seems. Whats the fix to this, Did i strip the t nut, has anyone had this problem???

AssocRacer

iTrader: (10)

i noticed this too when i replaced the composite outdrives with the lightened steel ones (i kept breaking the composite ones), and i checked the kit instructions to make sure i wasn't doing anything wrong, and i did it right. The problem is that the t-nut bottoms out on the "t's" before it actually bottoms out on the outdrive. I just added a few plastic spacers between the tnut and the outdrive and that solved the problem.

cheech4

iTrader: (2)

where do you mean in between, you mean under the t nut? and if possible can you provide a picture of these spacers??

carkillaii

iTrader: (2)

Lil help please need the part number for tc4 steering rack the hole setup thank you

AssocRacer

iTrader: (10)

i don't have an pictures, but the parts three that has the shims for adjusting the anti squat and anti dive has these little black spacers on it too, i used one of those. And yes, i meant under the t-nut. As for the part number for the steering rack, i just so happen to have one in front of me (broke mine in the main the other night ). It is 31003.

kytan

iTrader: (4)

I loosened my rear diff by 1/12 of a turn and that eased the torque steer a lot. But I think by doing that, I will loose acceleration out of corners. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Is that a recommended way to solve this? Or should I go for counter lead weights?

LJae

iTrader: (4)

The problem is that the diff spring is moved from the thrust bearing side to the t-nut side when you go to the steel/alloy diff halves from the plastics ones. You shouldn't have to add any shims or washers to the diffs. That should fix you problem.

LJae

iTrader: (4)

The steering rack number is 31003 and the swing rack hardware number is 2229. Hope that helps.

carkillaii

iTrader: (2)

thanks

encore75

iTrader: (26)

Hi all,

I'm a relative newbie to on-road...I just picked up a used Team TC4 and I'm looking to rebuild the (leaking) shocks. I've read through the forum here and it looks like the VCS2 upgrade is recommended. The roller I got came with the Yokomo caps on it, but I think I'd like to try the VCS2 upgrade.

Here are my questions:

What is the difference between the #31123 "VCS2 Upgrade Kit" and the #31120 "VCS2 Rebuild Kit" other than the shock o-ring building tool and ~$10 in price? From the pictures on the Associated website, it looks like the rebuild kit has everything the upgrade kit has except for the aforementioned o-ring tool and what looks like 4 shims. I'm assuming that the uptravel limiters are the ones on the tree, so I'm guessing that these 4 shims aren't actually needed. Since I already have the o-ring building tool from my B4, can I just get the rebuild kit for my shocks and save a few bucks?

Also, does anyone recommend any alternative ball cups to the OEM Associated ones?

Thanks in advance for your help...

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

the pictures are wrong...

the rebuild kit won't have the aluminum cap retainers...