Tamiya TB-Evolution III
#196
Tech Adept
Hi all,
I have constructed my TBIII also. However I found that it is quite hard to push the front one-way and rear ball diff into the gear cast. According Tamiya's HP , it seems to be the design which used to hold the two gear firm. But I still hear that it is better to trim the gear cast so that the bearing can be push completely inside. Do you guys experience that and what do you think about. Trim it down or not??
Thanks!
I have constructed my TBIII also. However I found that it is quite hard to push the front one-way and rear ball diff into the gear cast. According Tamiya's HP , it seems to be the design which used to hold the two gear firm. But I still hear that it is better to trim the gear cast so that the bearing can be push completely inside. Do you guys experience that and what do you think about. Trim it down or not??
Thanks!
#197
Tech Regular
Originally posted by mr4-tc sp
Hi all,
I have constructed my TBIII also. However I found that it is quite hard to push the front one-way and rear ball diff into the gear cast. According Tamiya's HP , it seems to be the design which used to hold the two gear firm. But I still hear that it is better to trim the gear cast so that the bearing can be push completely inside. Do you guys experience that and what do you think about. Trim it down or not??
Thanks!
Hi all,
I have constructed my TBIII also. However I found that it is quite hard to push the front one-way and rear ball diff into the gear cast. According Tamiya's HP , it seems to be the design which used to hold the two gear firm. But I still hear that it is better to trim the gear cast so that the bearing can be push completely inside. Do you guys experience that and what do you think about. Trim it down or not??
Thanks!
I've found that screwing in the diff covers too tight can actually hurth the smoothness of the driver train. I ended up backing the screws off slightly until the drive train freed up.
#198
Tech Adept
Hi itchynads,
Thanks a lot!
I have already done the same action as you. What I doubt is if I cut off the part, and make the even, would it be smoother than screw back method?
Thanks a lot!
I have already done the same action as you. What I doubt is if I cut off the part, and make the even, would it be smoother than screw back method?
#199
Tech Regular
Originally posted by mr4-tc sp
Hi itchynads,
Thanks a lot!
I have already done the same action as you. What I doubt is if I cut off the part, and make the even, would it be smoother than screw back method?
Hi itchynads,
Thanks a lot!
I have already done the same action as you. What I doubt is if I cut off the part, and make the even, would it be smoother than screw back method?
#200
Tech Adept
Thanks a lot!
In one word, TB EVO III is just a good car!
In one word, TB EVO III is just a good car!
#201
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
Set-up ???????
Hey guys,
My car is on its way!!! I should have it Monday or Tuesday!!! yahooo.
I cannot race it till I put a front diff in it-but that'll just allow me more time to make sure the drivetrain, etc is free and everything perfect!!!
I would like your guys comments on this set-up I am going to start with. I am going to run the car on Ozite carpet on foam tires on a 88' x 50' fast roadcourse. Stock and 19 turn. NO Mod.
Front shocks will be 60 wt. Associated oil with smallest hole piston. Associated yellow spring. Shocks mounted one hole in on tower. No or very thin sway bar. Plaid Jaco tires. Diff very tight.
Camber link second longest possible and as high as possible. Low roll center with zero kick-up and 6 degree castor blocks.
2 degrees toe out, camber set for tire wear. 4mm ride height. Front arms middle wheelbase.
Rear shocks will be 40 wt. oil with smallest hole pistons. Associated purple or copper spring. Shocks leaned in to third hole on tower. No sway bar. Purple tires.
Camber link long and high as possible. 2 degrees toe in. arms in low roll center with zero kick-up or antidive. Arms full forward. 4mm ride height.
I know this is all guess work-but as I have NEVER owned a Tamiya before-maybe you guys know stuff I dont about general set-ups!!!
My car is on its way!!! I should have it Monday or Tuesday!!! yahooo.
I cannot race it till I put a front diff in it-but that'll just allow me more time to make sure the drivetrain, etc is free and everything perfect!!!
I would like your guys comments on this set-up I am going to start with. I am going to run the car on Ozite carpet on foam tires on a 88' x 50' fast roadcourse. Stock and 19 turn. NO Mod.
Front shocks will be 60 wt. Associated oil with smallest hole piston. Associated yellow spring. Shocks mounted one hole in on tower. No or very thin sway bar. Plaid Jaco tires. Diff very tight.
Camber link second longest possible and as high as possible. Low roll center with zero kick-up and 6 degree castor blocks.
2 degrees toe out, camber set for tire wear. 4mm ride height. Front arms middle wheelbase.
Rear shocks will be 40 wt. oil with smallest hole pistons. Associated purple or copper spring. Shocks leaned in to third hole on tower. No sway bar. Purple tires.
Camber link long and high as possible. 2 degrees toe in. arms in low roll center with zero kick-up or antidive. Arms full forward. 4mm ride height.
I know this is all guess work-but as I have NEVER owned a Tamiya before-maybe you guys know stuff I dont about general set-ups!!!
Last edited by rayhuang; 01-02-2003 at 10:47 AM.
#202
Tech Adept
rayhuang: WOW, you already started thinking the setup for your new car. I rather think about it when I'm in the track. I believe the EVO3 comes with front oneway not diff. I'm getting my car TOMORROW!
#203
Re: Set-up ???????
Originally posted by rayhuang
Hey guys,
My car is on its way!!! I should have it Monday or Tuesday!!! yahooo.
I cannot race it till I put a front diff in it-but that'll just allow me more time to make sure the drivetrain, etc is free and everything perfect!!!
I would like your guys comments on this set-up I am going to start with. I am going to run the car on Ozite carpet on foam tires on a 88' x 50' fast roadcourse. Stock and 19 turn. NO Mod.
Front shocks will be 60 wt. Associated oil with smallest hole piston. Associated yellow spring. Shocks mounted one hole in on tower. No or very thin sway bar. Plaid Jaco tires. Diff very tight.
Camber link second longest possible and as high as possible. Low roll center with zero kick-up and 6 degree castor blocks.
2 degrees toe out, camber set for tire wear. 4mm ride height. Front arms middle wheelbase.
Rear shocks will be 40 wt. oil with smallest hole pistons. Associated purple or copper spring. Shocks leaned in to third hole on tower. No sway bar. Purple tires.
Camber link long and high as possible. 2 degrees toe in. arms in low roll center with zero kick-up or antidive. Arms full forward. 4mm ride height.
I know this is all guess work-but as I have NEVER owned a Tamiya before-maybe you guys know stuff I dont about general set-ups!!!
Hey guys,
My car is on its way!!! I should have it Monday or Tuesday!!! yahooo.
I cannot race it till I put a front diff in it-but that'll just allow me more time to make sure the drivetrain, etc is free and everything perfect!!!
I would like your guys comments on this set-up I am going to start with. I am going to run the car on Ozite carpet on foam tires on a 88' x 50' fast roadcourse. Stock and 19 turn. NO Mod.
Front shocks will be 60 wt. Associated oil with smallest hole piston. Associated yellow spring. Shocks mounted one hole in on tower. No or very thin sway bar. Plaid Jaco tires. Diff very tight.
Camber link second longest possible and as high as possible. Low roll center with zero kick-up and 6 degree castor blocks.
2 degrees toe out, camber set for tire wear. 4mm ride height. Front arms middle wheelbase.
Rear shocks will be 40 wt. oil with smallest hole pistons. Associated purple or copper spring. Shocks leaned in to third hole on tower. No sway bar. Purple tires.
Camber link long and high as possible. 2 degrees toe in. arms in low roll center with zero kick-up or antidive. Arms full forward. 4mm ride height.
I know this is all guess work-but as I have NEVER owned a Tamiya before-maybe you guys know stuff I dont about general set-ups!!!
#204
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
between owning my own business, owning my own track, raising my daughter, taking care of my house, wife, three cats and running my very small, but fun RC racing business, I dont know where I find the time to think up all this crap!!!
You gus are right-I should just set-it up as the book says, but I love to overthink everything!!!
Hmmm...maybe thats why I am always so stresed out..... hehehe!!
You gus are right-I should just set-it up as the book says, but I love to overthink everything!!!
Hmmm...maybe thats why I am always so stresed out..... hehehe!!
#206
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
EVO3 Drive train
Has anyone else found the need to break-in the drive train on the E3?
My car seemed to have a rough spot that would hang up when rotating the spur.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tamiyatrf/
My car seemed to have a rough spot that would hang up when rotating the spur.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tamiyatrf/
#207
Re: EVO3 Drive train
Originally posted by madjack
Has anyone else found the need to break-in the drive train on the E3?
My car seemed to have a rough spot that would hang up when rotating the spur.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tamiyatrf/
Has anyone else found the need to break-in the drive train on the E3?
My car seemed to have a rough spot that would hang up when rotating the spur.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tamiyatrf/
#208
Tech Regular
No shaft for me ill stick with my 414MII