COBRARACING

Yes 100% true the hobbywing product is available from rab and renato bencci

tdunster

I have noticed that some XeRun 17.5t motors are listed as 2300kv and other XeRun 17.5t motors are listed as 1900kv.

I assume I have the 2300kv version (slotless) and I was wondering if I should be focusing on the recommended 13.5t settings more so than those for the 17.5t ?

Thanks in Advance,


Alan.

cherry2blost

iTrader: (1)

Hi Guys, just to let you know some good news, just had a mail from the UK Electric Board:

The factory will be able to see that the motor has been approved by visiting the BRCA website www.brca.org (in a few days).

The sample is now unusable. It has been completely stripped, including:-
Cutting the sleeve to remove the bonded stator.
Sectioning the stator with a hacksaw to remove the windings and stator laminates.
Wires stripped of lacquer to check diameter.

The above has to be done on Spec. motors to be able to check the wire diameters and number of Turns correctly.

The Motor should be shown on the BRCA approved list within 2/3 days.

So come buy them use them enjoy them at:

http://www.racersinexile.org.uk/135T...0_2750474.aspx

http://www.racersinexile.org.uk/135T...0_1606812.aspx

http://www.xtreme-rc.org.uk/catalog/...roducts_id=586

Thanks for the patience guys, we will put in the 10.5, 17.5 and 21.5 in time for the next season.

emerge

iTrader: (6)

Guys can anyone PM me with a solution to the brakes on the 119. Basically I have none. I have the brakes and reverse set to 100%, and even the trims on the m11 to 160 and exp on 100%. I have recalibrated the controller leaving everything at 100 and also placing it at 70 and still nothing. In case it matters its an xtreme wih standard cap. I also have had 40% drag brake at one stage an the car just wouldn't stop. Basically the car is undriveable.

snabbgas

+1


But for me the 119 has very good brakes.... when the car almost stands still.
When the car is at near full speed the breaks is almost zero. Then when the speed reduces the brakes becomes progressively better resulting in a big overshoot and a car that suddenly stands still.

How do i downgrade to 1224? I have tried v1.6 v1.62 v1.63 and non of them lets me downgrade either the 2in1or the speedo.

M7H

Do you have the v1.63 with 101224 in it on your pc, if not, Cobra still has it on his site I think.
Then first in the v1.63 / 110119 version, downgrade your ESC to V2.0_100518, then downgrade your 2 in 1 box to V1.07_101224
Close the program, and start the v1.63 / 101224, and upgrade your ESC....

scytherat

0119stock does have good brakes. I have noticed on mine there is an absolutly tiny delay on them which i only notice at the end of a very fast section of track, havent tried adjusting the trim yet on mine though, thats what im gonna adjust tonite

TeamWTF

iTrader: (11)

I Tried adding 5% drag (The lowest setting)

This seemed to help with the 'delayed' feeling

I think it has a lot to do with gearing and endbell timing... What motor/ratio/timing are you running?

emerge

iTrader: (6)

Thats fine that you guys have good brakes. What should I check though because mine really don't work at all

emerge

iTrader: (6)

Fdr 4.5 and motor at 5+ timing. But it's a ballistic so it comes with 30+ timing from the factory. And I have 18 on esc.

Lohan

I am curious as to whether or not the bugs and glitches that I have heard rumoured about the 10224 software have been ironed out as yet? I ask this coz I am thinking about installing it over my 5618 firmware

snabbgas

Wouldn't it be easier if everybody specified the endbell timing in absolute degrees in the cases it is known?

As emerge here to be understod had to ad what timing the Ballistic has in it's factory setting instead of everybody got used to talking absolute.

I mean +5 here or -5 there it is bloody confusing...

emerge above has a Ballistic and he runs 35deg endbell timing.
I have a Ballistic and at the moment i am running 20deg endbell timing.
Easy right?

I mean person A has motor X and runs +5deg.
Person B has motor Y and runs -5deg.
The motors has different factory setting and both are running the same endbell timing.
Silly if you ask me!

Every respected manufacturer should specify how many absolute degrees of timing their motors has in its factory setting?

emerge

iTrader: (6)

Well to novaks defense they actually specify 30 degrees factory setting endbell timing which is why they don't need much and heat tends to start to go pretty high with every little bit of timing you add.

But in saying that what has this got to do with my brakes lol

snabbgas

I know that Novak specifies the factory timing set so big kudos to them!
But since there is no universial factory setting i think that all manufacturers should specify it. Would be easier an eliminate a lot of speculation.
The motors are very close to each other with the same wirethickness, turns etc so it would be easier when trying to figure setups out between racers if everybody knew what endbelltiming they run to begin with

It has very little to do with your brakes but this forum is about a little more than that right

snabbgas

Thanks M7H! Worked when doing like you suggested!