Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

cheers champ, thou this forum helpped alot and so did a few others.......

together we share, and enjoy our FUN


HAPPY TIMES

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

More questions...

How do you change the roll center on this thing? It doesn't look the the hinge pins are adjustable. Has this been an issue at all?

Also, who here is running a front diff? How do you take it out without having to remove one of the front bulkheads?

BTW... I will be reading all 6,376+ posts. Currently only on post #350.

ALG

You have a long way to go, but you will learn.
have fun!!!!

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, lots of fun alright... Currently up to post #695.

For those of you that have shortend your wheelbase, how does it compare to just narrowing your trackwidth? Wasn't that enough? What is your current trackwidth with the shortened wheelbase? Thanks

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

The shortened wheelbase helps primarily with mid corner rotation and provides the most gain on lower speed technical corners, without the mod the car tends to scrub hard mid corner around tighter corners.

The narrowed front end (around 195 w/ modified shock ends & ball studs) helps the front of the car roll into the corner and really helps carry speed on turn in.

The real problem with the front end is working on it. On my cars all the composite parts required lots of filing and reaming to get a good smooth fit and when it comes time to change the diff you have a real job on your hands. The new adjustable ackerman bellcrank gives some nice fine tuning but is extremely fragile. Unlike other bellcrank designs like those found on the x-ray & serpent the magic threads their ball studs directly into the inserts with no room for nuts so even on minor impact the strip out. The easy access front end is available now but as a $100 option part only, considering all competitors have this std now TM needs to find a way to incorporate a version into their kit. The fastest way for them to fix their k-factory bell crank would be to make their inserts out of aluminum instead of soft plastic. Now since many of us have to run such narrow front ends to induce more roll TM could either mold a new bulkhead to lower the front lower pins reducing the need for the narrow front end or mold a new front arm that raises the shock mount so it doesn't rub on the wheel when running such a narrow setting.


mark

ALG

With the trackwidth shorter, I fell the car more nervouse on the first part and with the "Short Step" short wheel base I feel the car that has a tighter turn specially for track that have U Turn or tight corners.

You must make the mod and feel the car.
Remember a tail loose car is always faster but harder to drive!!

I feel that the "Short Step" is for the advance driver, it's one more tunning tool that you have.

Rember, if you dont like the mod, you can always get a pair of new arms or put the space(the one you made) on the front part of the rear arms.

Gansei, has made an extra short step, making the mod on the front szection too

Rodney

iTrader: (1)

Hi
So how do you shorten the wheel base on the G4?
Cheers Rod

Johnny9s

Quick question during my build. I am running on a low traction/bumpy parking lot track. Should I use the rear sway bar or not?

Thanks,
John

asil

Just start with 0 degree and then try seperating blades.. and decide accordingly


Asil

razzor

The std setup doesnt have adjustable roll centre but the new Kfactory Speed Shot front end does.Ive played with it but always come back to the std arm position as the best for me.The Speed Shot does however make the changing of diff/spool a breeze compared to std setup that you have to remove one side of the bulk head.

razzor

I run around 196/7 width on the front and the 2mm shorter on the rear.
it definately helped the car rotate better and carry more corner speed ,my hassle has been finding the limit for my driving style.This though has been the one factor that has improved on my car and helped me be faster as i am very quick through the infield on my club track.Need to get a better setup for braking or at least more confidence with the car for later braking as i tend to be a bit early on the brakes giving away the advantage i gained.
Beauty of this sport is the tweaking and figuring out ways to get faster
I am running just on 2 years in onroad gas with last year being with teh G4S and its been a awesome learning curve.

Enjoy the read there is a lot of info.

razzor

You could still use the rear sway bar and take out teh front or soften it.
The rear bar is not that hard so suites low grip tracks.
But hey try it out and let us know what you think

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Thank guys! Appreciate all the good info on upgrading the car, trackwidth, roll center, shortening and the Speed Shot. Know that all of this will be consolidated and posted in one place for future reference.

Currently I'm on post #1055. I can only read about a 1,000 posts a day before I start to lose focus.

The more I read about the car and the cool stuff you guys are doing with it, the more interested I become in owning one and seeing first hand how it compares to the other cars I have.

razzor

Hey RM ,you get a G4s it might just change your mind

Seriously though it i dont see it lacking compared to the big three ie:
Mugen, Kyosho, Serpent.

Looking forward to the site
Would be great to add it to the G4s favourites

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

Question on Motors?

A: somehow i totally funny enough put Oil Filter oil in my motor after run stage, then i added fuel and started it and ran it for a TANK!!! Motor is OS TZ

once ran the tank through to clean the Oil Filter oil - i then put after run in....


Ok have a laugh all, but yeah was a slow day in my books

B: will my motor be harmed?


Also in regards the IDM - motors, one of our lads have bought one here but has no luck in getting Glow Plugs "calling PATTO where do you shop for glow plugs"?


cheers