Serpent 733 1/10 200mm touring
#1186
Tech Regular
Does anyone know the part # for The Adaptor 2-speed / oneway pro / orange? I dont see it on the serpent website.
thnx
thnx
#1187
Tech Regular
#1188
Well, from all your comments on the oneway bearing, I am wondering am I deserve to have a free replacement of the oneway and the first gear which were damaged without any warnings or at least I couldn't find any words saying about the lube of the oneway from the manual before my incident. Will the World model contact me here in HK or Serpent will contact me, thanks.
#1189
Tech Elite
Well, from all your comments on the oneway bearing, I am wondering am I deserve to have a free replacement of the oneway and the first gear which were damaged without any warnings or at least I couldn't find any words saying about the lube of the oneway from the manual before my incident. Will the World model contact me here in HK or Serpent will contact me, thanks.
I am sure if there was a mass problem, than that would be different. Take the tank for instance. I know here in the US, for every kit that was sold, the manufacture sent a replacement tank to the dealers to be delivered to the customers that bough from the first batch.
Also keep in mind that the "World model" company themselves would not contact you. Typically you have to deal with your local dealer or the company you bought the product from. They would then go through the proper chanels to get the situation fixed, based on their policy.
Good luck either way,
DJ Apolaro
#1190
#1191
I would not think so. There is no way for the Manufacture to validate something like that. Maybe you can get with your local supplier that you bought the car from, however that kind of part is hard to warranty.
I am sure if there was a mass problem, than that would be different. Take the tank for instance. I know here in the US, for every kit that was sold, the manufacture sent a replacement tank to the dealers to be delivered to the customers that bough from the first batch.
Also keep in mind that the "World model" company themselves would not contact you. Typically you have to deal with your local dealer or the company you bought the product from. They would then go through the proper chanels to get the situation fixed, based on their policy.
Good luck either way,
DJ Apolaro
I am sure if there was a mass problem, than that would be different. Take the tank for instance. I know here in the US, for every kit that was sold, the manufacture sent a replacement tank to the dealers to be delivered to the customers that bough from the first batch.
Also keep in mind that the "World model" company themselves would not contact you. Typically you have to deal with your local dealer or the company you bought the product from. They would then go through the proper chanels to get the situation fixed, based on their policy.
Good luck either way,
DJ Apolaro
#1192
Tech Elite
I will relay the message for you.
DJ Apolaro
DJ Apolaro
#1194
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
Hey DJ
Just for you Mr Wayne; The traction was super high. I would not use this set-up normally. Too stiff in the front, but I was tring to make the car transition really fast for the chicanes.
Front
droop 0
stock sway bar
green springs layed down
2 hole piston 1,000 wt oil
car short and 2mm of actual caster or 4mm of clips (same thing)
-1 toe on each side
1.75 left and 1.5 right camber
4 ride height
37 shore 56mm - Twister (non light weight)
198 width
Rear
droop 3
2.3mm sway bar inner position
pink springs 2nd hole from bottom
3 hole piston 900wt oil
car short
+2 toe on each side
3.25 left camber and 2.75 right camber
5 ride height
camber link inner bottom on tower and inner on hub with 1mm shim
2 back screw out for more flex on the bottum of chassis. The ones that hold the motor mount thingy.
40 shore 58mm Twister (non light weight)
199 width
For normal traction I would use blue front spings, red rear springs and 2.5 rear toe. Also maybe flip the shock pistons front to rear. Just switch the spings, the shocks themselves are the same size.
If I missed anything, just ask. I leave out of town in the morning. Will be back Monday night. Will reply then.
Later,
DJ Apolaro
Front
droop 0
stock sway bar
green springs layed down
2 hole piston 1,000 wt oil
car short and 2mm of actual caster or 4mm of clips (same thing)
-1 toe on each side
1.75 left and 1.5 right camber
4 ride height
37 shore 56mm - Twister (non light weight)
198 width
Rear
droop 3
2.3mm sway bar inner position
pink springs 2nd hole from bottom
3 hole piston 900wt oil
car short
+2 toe on each side
3.25 left camber and 2.75 right camber
5 ride height
camber link inner bottom on tower and inner on hub with 1mm shim
2 back screw out for more flex on the bottum of chassis. The ones that hold the motor mount thingy.
40 shore 58mm Twister (non light weight)
199 width
For normal traction I would use blue front spings, red rear springs and 2.5 rear toe. Also maybe flip the shock pistons front to rear. Just switch the spings, the shocks themselves are the same size.
If I missed anything, just ask. I leave out of town in the morning. Will be back Monday night. Will reply then.
Later,
DJ Apolaro
#1195
Tech Elite
I did not have time to change my oils, since I did not show for any practice. I ran 150,000 front and 80,000 rear. I would have like to try 300,000 or a solid front and 120,000 rear, but never got it.
DJ Apolaro
DJ Apolaro
#1197
Possibly if you go as hard as you guys do, you may get another "Zone" where it really works as well. However it seems with the 733 some parts of the setup book need to be rewritten
Rear droop also seems to work opposite to the 720. Lower rear downstop (more droop) giver a more stable rear end on corner entry, where on the 720 this was the other way round!
#1198
Tech Apprentice
New Serpent owner
Hey DJ & Kulius,
can post a set up for low to mid grip track????
Thanks
#1199
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
"Hi 733 Racers,
Sorry I did not post anything earlier from this past weekend, but I have been swamped with my real job. I am going to give some feedback here and also what I think is a good starting point for now. I will be doing more testing at a different track this weekend and may find something new to tell.
I went to Kissimmee this weekend. It is a large open track with high speed turns with one tight section. The track was a little green since we have not used it for a little while and not to many people showed up to race (25 people or so). In the tight section I found the car to transfer from side to side the weight much better and feel more neutral. At the beginning the car lacked rear traction off power, but I found a set-up that worked for this. Mid corner steering was really good. The 733 carries great corner speed, compared to the 720. On power I ran more toe than normal, as I was not used to all the steering this car had. The drive train was awesome and very smooth. I did not clean the bearing or remove the seals and it was great, super smooth.
Tips; Put the brake pulley on with the guide on the left. I think the instructions have it on the right (I think, as I did not get instructions). Make sure to oil the oneway for the first gear. Install battery like I said earlier in the forum. On the front sway bar it enters from the top and is tight when you use the thinker sway bars. I am going to round the edges on the outer back portion of the bulkhead where the sway bar is tight to push down on. Hope I did not confuse anyone. If you are not having this issue then do not worry.
Here is the Set-up I wound start with in the US:
Front
120,000-150,000 oil for the diff (lighter on low bite tracks)
-1 droop
middle roll center position
car long
3mm caster in front of arm
5.5mm ride height
blue spring layed down
2 hole piston
40wt oil
.5 toe out on each side
1.5 camber
stock sway bar
ackerman in back position and wide
Rear
40,000-50,000 oil for the diff (lighter on low bite tracks)
3 droop
lowest roll center position on bottom pins
car long
camber link inner and 2nd position from bottom
2mm under link on outer position
6mm of ride height
red springs in second position (orange in 3rd postion if low bite)
3 hole piston
40wt oil
3 toe in on each side
3 camber and 3.5 on outside tire
stock sway bar, I used 2.3, as track was green
Hope this helps and if I forgot something just ask. I will try to answer questions as fast as possible, but I am pretty busy with work at the moment. Also remember this was the first outting (In the US) with the car, so things may still change for me. If they do I will update the posted information.
Have fun with the new 733,
DJ Apolaro"
#1200
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
It is funny that you run such thick oil in the diffs. What Michael Salven tells me many racers here find the car runs better with thin oils. Both front and rear. He ran 50k front and 40k rear in a recent race in Germany where many cars suffered from traction roll. He says the thinner oils make the car roll much easier through the turns.
Possibly if you go as hard as you guys do, you may get another "Zone" where it really works as well. However it seems with the 733 some parts of the setup book need to be rewritten
Rear droop also seems to work opposite to the 720. Lower rear downstop (more droop) giver a more stable rear end on corner entry, where on the 720 this was the other way round!
Possibly if you go as hard as you guys do, you may get another "Zone" where it really works as well. However it seems with the 733 some parts of the setup book need to be rewritten
Rear droop also seems to work opposite to the 720. Lower rear downstop (more droop) giver a more stable rear end on corner entry, where on the 720 this was the other way round!
Diff oil: Well maybe there's some truth to it. I'll build another set of diffs with light oils and compare lap times. Lighter oil should give more traction all around... ......traction=corner speed.
Droop: I found my car likes 3mm on the droop with a 6mm ride height(60mm tire). When I went to 4mm, the car was still good but just felt different.