Sow&Steady

This is one ol' meister who hates snakes ...

baller360

where do you think I can get some option parts for the serpent 710? I know 3 racing carries parts for it but is there any other?
and do any of you other guys wish that the serpent 710 had a lowere rear and front shock tork I think there to high and becuase of that I can't fit some bodies that I will like to put on it.

Derby Bros Racing

iTrader: (7)

i finally got my front ball diff from the border shop.
can't wait to try it out at my track!
at my local track, one way would be almost impossible to drive, the locked front diff is not really that great either. so the front ball diff is the way to go.

i'm thinking of putting mugen shocks on my 710 so i don't snap the shock shaft anymore. i don't know if this is a good idea though... let me know what you guys think.

chachi

I am getting a new P/S for my sx12 MS-RT and am trying to decide betweem MCP or non-MCP. Is there any noticeable difference in performance using the MCP piston?

InitialD

What option parts are you specifically looking?

What bodies are you trying to put on? Lola Can Am bodies? If you're putting legal touring car bodies, I don't think there's any problems with the height of the shock towers.

InitialD

I've seen shock shafts breaking on the 710 when the impact is hard and direct at the shocks. In any case, you'll still break it or bend it.

InitialD

You'll want the MCP version. Higher silicone content to withstand higher abrasion and higher temp.

Performance wise, there's no difference. Perhaps if you count the fact that you can go leaner and hotter (generally means faster and more powerful), then yes, the MCP version would be better.

InitialD

Be careful. The front roll more, more front traction, more steering.

Back rolls more because of lower roll center, more rear traction, less steering.

InitialD

If your rear tails under power out of the corner, what I do is to adjust and soften the rear diff little by little until you get stable rear under power. You could also soften the rear shocks (or harden the front) a tad but the former method is easier and less of a hassle.

Pyramid

The rear shock length might have been the problem for you to convert unles by making new shock tower. Putting the lower arms the other way around (L>R, R>L) might be able to raise the shock holes up to accept shorter shock but then you will have to find a away to secure the arms pin/shaft.

Yes, the serpent shock shaft might be the hardest among all but also the weakest. Try to search previous (1-2 pages old) post where I mention for solutions with original shocks for proven crash shock problem.

Derby Bros Racing

iTrader: (7)

what's the solution?
is it a new part or a modified part from some other car?
thanks in advance.

InitialD

Read here;

I've actually not needed to do the above. No shock shafts broken (yet). If you hit directly at the shocks, of course it's break. If the shock shafts does not break, perhaps something else will break.

Pyramid

Little mod from existing parts. Basically, you will want to make the top plastic cap 1mm thinner. Cut the one that goes to the ball first (the one with ejector pin circle mark). Bring to machinist for better cut. This will make the shock cap move freely with ball installed. The problem in broken shaft or body is JUST because when the whole damper twisted on impact, it could not move. IT IS NOT the front (in case you have problem on front) that isn`t installed straight.

Pyramid

Hey thanks D, didn`t see that one coming...

I did broke the shaft on time with S705.. couple times broke on composite body. That was my first GP1/10 car.. oh boy, that car really giving me a hard time but not on the selling as it was completely different story at a GREAT timming.

Finally, S710, change my perception about Serpent This is something that they should have done long time ago.. at least right after the famous impulse I guess. NOW, I have more time to catch up Mr. D postings..

Derby Bros Racing

iTrader: (7)

thanks guys