Schrijver99

With the futaba 9450 servo and builded as in the manual the steering left and right was not the same now it is.

Original the ballcup couldn't pass the servo horn because the horn had to pull the ballcup passed the centre of the metal servoconnetion. Now with horn not at 90 degrees with the servo but with the lever this is smaller.

EVOLUTION

From some of the pics so far the car look good.

Julius,show us some pics of your "team car" !!!

Julius

I could show you, but then I'd have to kill you

EVOLUTION

Well I'm not yet ready to die for a 710 but can we just change it to a small injury?

one-nil

dropped into Snake King's in Mong Kok yesterday and saw a 710 built up. He said he sold around 30-something already and only had one left. Looked so purdy and felt so good in my hands I almost bought it and here was I only looking for some small bits for my ntc3. This car is s-c-a-r-y!

Thaasman

Then why didn't you bought it!?
Just throw away that piece of j**k

Pyramid

Not a problem at all...

Pyramid

S9550 is also flater/shorter by about 1mm from the metal gear (where you put your servo horn) to its mounting ears. Thats why with 2mm spacer in between the horn and plastic ball cup will not touch the belt when turning. I personally think this is the best fit servo for S710.

GoldFinger

If your track is only 46x22mm and 2.8-3.5 Mtr infield widht, I must admit it that it was not so impressing. Considering that my kit is being RTR on Friday and like Pyramid said that still very very much new things and combinations that we should try.
I still managed to finish second in our local Sunday race (A main 45 minutes). (believe me that i was only the lucky one, the other fast guy did not make it through finish)

After spending 1 gallon with this car, this is what I found:
- So exciting, coz there are so much "kungfu inside" this car that waits to be discovered.
- Rene/Julius/... was right. the car seems so light to drive. About acceleration, i was competing with other cars that equipped with 7.3~7.6 1st gear ratio and I almost forgot that im only using stock gear ratio.
- Im not sure wether stronger material or better constrution, but this snake handling does not change after having some T-boned and couple of airshow.
- Handling balance is very well, tire wears after 45 min is almost the same.(same shore, no split for start).

Im not giving my setup, coz Im not so sure yet.
I do notes : highest position of upper front arm ; upper position of lower rear arm and shortest position for upper rear arm is a good starting point to make a balance setup in small tight track.

For those whom hates serpent, my advice (wise one) ; just go buy and drive this car you will improving your setup skill and knowledge by reading the setup book and apply to your car.
Then sell them again if you dont like it, you wont feel regret with the knowledge youve got.

For serpent die hard who drive 705 with modded front arm, changing the upper front arm position to hiighest will makes a same feeling with make a new hole in 705. Except the outside camber did not change when the car is leaning, which is better cornering when you slam your car into a hairpin.

Look forward to hear any other input from you guys...

InitialD

Yes, I noticed this too. I trim my throttle EPA to have less left travel. I'm not sattisfied with this particular nag after building building the kit and look for suggestions to the solution.

InitialD

Well, even if not needed, you guessed right ! I did it on mine. That is why it took me a bit of time too. A also degreased all the rubber sealed bearings and lubed them again. So that too took a bit of time.

Yes, my favourite foam tires are Speedmind !

InitialD

Let me get this straight... To get the steering the same left and right, you need to shorten the linkage to 40 mm and then the servo horn at 90 degree to the linkage and not 90 degree to the servo casing?

BTW, what linkage and ball cups did you use? It seems it is quite impossible to get to 40 mm even though you trim the ball cups...

GoldFinger

I use the kyosho ball end, the one that came for MP 7.5 with stock turnbuckle.
But I will replace it with serpent shock lower ball end.

Just lign the ackerman arm to pointing 0 deg. and your EPA diff will not more than 5 point. If you force to lign the horn 90 deg. , you will ended up with 32 point EPA difference and right turning is still can not be maximal .Like I said in my first post regarding this issue.

And you still need to put 1mm spacer in horn linkage, 2mm will touching the belt.

Julius

In theory having a 90 degree angle between servo and arm gives equal travel. If you cut the ball cups, you'll need to shorten the thread on the link as well. Otherwise you won't be able to make the link shorter.

Julius

Good to hear you had a good first outing. I think having a well balanced car from the box confirms we made a step in the right direction.

Considering the tire wear and the balanced feel, I think you might try:
- one step softer front tires (even better wear balance fr/rr and more steering)
- Stiffer damping (35wt) or the shocks a little more upright which gives a stiffer spring ratio and stiffer damping = quicker response.
- Try the DRS link in the upper position =helps steer the rear a little more. (you may need the longer upper link position to keep balance out of the turns)

Did you run against cars with a front diff? How was the braking into the hairpins. How is the overall feeling compared with the 705?