highwayman

iTrader: (2)

number cause of torque steer... tweak, your car is improperly tweaked...

... check first if all your shocks are still ok. (no leaks)
... adjust tweak

another reason for a slight torque steer, the rear of the car dumps to much weight on the rear, i replaced my red springs (rear) to copper and raised ride height by .5mm to compensate.

... just a couple of suggestions.

torchedlh

i've reset the tweak to factory settings (4 in the front, 3 in the rear). i also set the ride height to the stock setting all the way around. not sure about my shocks leaking tho... i'll have to take a look.

highwayman

iTrader: (2)

kinda hard to explain tweak, but 4 and 3 are droop settings, not tweak, there is no factory setting for tweak.

(also, aside from my droop screws, i try to have the same shock lengths equal.)

... tweak is more of "balance" like when a portion of your car is heavier (example... rear left, where the engine is, ) tweaking you're car is the process by which you must compensate for this, so that you'll still have a level chassis. (i.e. by direct tweaking, you put more preload on the rear left shock, indirect tweaking, putting more preload to the front left shock, and remove the same amout of preload to the right front shock.)

You can check the tweak either by an MIP tweak station or just by lifting the center of the chassis and looking which tire leaves the ground first.

there are other articles you can look for to help explain tweak better.

bbntc3

Since you guys are on the tweak subject. I used a laser tweak board and a MIP tweak station. Other than using 4 seperate scaling system I have found this Integy tool to be of some better use than balance beams.
http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...33103198664.8f

highwayman

iTrader: (2)

i agree, i find that the tweak station is a better alterenative to the scale system.

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

If you can afford the scale system that is the most accurate. The Tweak Station is a lot easier to transport to the track though. But you do want to get all four tires to have the same amount of pressure somehow.

Jon

Ophidian

iTrader: (3)

Just got my new ntc3. Anyone got any tips for problems I might see during building?

fiasco

Hi all

nice to see the ntc3 thread is still hanging in there - pun intended

I still race mine

Mercury Racer

Just follow the manual exactly, and you shouldn't have problems. the kit settings work ok.

spawn

iTrader: (6)

you might want to get the FIX for the shock towers and maybe some 4-40 1/2 to replace the 3 shock tower bolts for the front and rear. Also polish the hinge pins and pivot balls till shiny for freer movement.

Mercury Racer

... yep, u need the FIX and an RPM front bumper, the stock one doesnt work.

Bobby Flack

Lifting the car up at the center and watching how far the tires lift is "Droop" not a method of setting tweak. For tweak you have to use a balance beam or scales or make darn sure all the shocks are the same length and the spring collars are all in the exact same place, of course this does not show any weight bias problems.

I had problems with the one-way until I started using the Serpent oil, not much of it though.

Ted

Ophidian

iTrader: (3)

What's this FIX for the shock towers? And thanks for the other info everyone.

bbntc3

I have The fix and the Rear Jam nuts in a kit form, 1 kit does the whole car $25 shipped in the US. Email me
The fix uses the other 2 holes in the diff cases. Keeps the shocktowers tight on the car. Loose shocktowers is common with this car.

Ophidian

iTrader: (3)

What company makes the fix?