NTC3NUT

Craig,
Here's a picture of the clutch on an MT-12.

NTC3NUT

Here's a picture of the shoes off the clutch. The large hole is 1/8", the smaller hole is 3/32". The very last hole on the bottom is the original mounting hole. This set-up worked great on my MT-12's. Good Luck!

NTC3NUT

Craig,
FYI, Here's a photo of one of my modified manifolds. I cut 1/2" off, then ported the inside of the motor flange mount. It increased my MT-12's rpm range substaintially. A stock manifold is shown for comparison.

NTC3NUT

Here's an inside photo of the motor flange mount. A stock manifold is shown for comparison.

Craig

Thanks for the pictures and info.I have cut my manifold a 1/4 inch,but maybe I try cutting some more off.I will let you know how the modifications work for me.Thanks

NTC3NUT

No problem man, anytime I can help.....

coastaltony

iTrader: (13)

NTC3NUT
I just got another stock NTC3
Can I just use a dremmel tool to grind down the servo saver screw?
Back to my earlier post re: Golden Horizons
They already have a few aluminum upgrades for the NTC3, maybe if they get some requests, they will offer the left hand nuts and the diff case.

NTC3NUT

If you mean the screw thru the spring, then yes. Tighten it down to your desired level, then cut it off with your dremel.

theRED5

My 'puter crashed and I lost my link to this site....can someone enlighten me about the rear toe in mod ? (I read through 35 pages...)

I put a baffle in-between the cylinder head and the carb.,it goes to the roof of the sedan body, separating the engine from the fresh air coming in the rear window.

My NTC3 is fully sorted, I have been having good luck. But as soon as the diff gears and other than plastic diff cases come out it'll be perfect. So those white gears are Assoc parts?

I use the 3 shoe clutch with the copper springs (replace them every month) I trimmed a pie slice shape off the backside of the clutch shoe and it allows the STS 3P turbo to kick all its power in.

I AM the Driver.

stefan

I suppose I'm about the only one who know what that screenname means, right Chuck?

ME-student

i just tried this set up on Saturday, i was impressed by its performance. i expected it to have a lot of bottom end and less top end power since the header length is much longer. but bottom and top end power was as good as the dual chamber pipe. i only ran two laps and didnt get the temp. stupid rain....i will do more testing this coming weekend.

mike_Webb

When I did that I had a hard time keeping the temp down on my engine and it seemed really sluggish.

ME-student

mike_Webb: thats weird.... i use 2 rear exhaust headers..
wonder why..... maybe because you need to retune your engine first.. not sure.. but i will spend more time on it this weekend.

mike_Webb

I used a copper 90degree bend to get it goign down to the second header into the pipe. I set my Mugen M12 which runs great at 3 out on the low end and 4 on the high end, mid flush and it was coming in with the regular pipe at about 240-245 on that day. I then put that pipe combo on and had to tune the engine to 4 1/2 out on low and 5 3/4 on high, with the mid 1/4 righer to get it from overheating. It was coming in at 310 with my normal settings. I was able to drive it around for about 9 min and bring it in at about 260. I guess I could play with plugs and stuff but I was told it is better to get it on the pipe quicker then running it in the header. Give it a try though

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

coastaltony heres a fix for the rear toe link untill the reverse
nut is available or until you find one just slide in 5/32 linkage
collar into the tie rod you might have to dremel the collar to fit
here a pic