Trinity G4 - Team Magic G4 E-Type
01-30-2004, 09:11 PM
#452
sloppy steering!
I have found my problem with this elusive sloppy steering. The first time I have serviced my car since I built it, was tonight. After a LONG race night last night, I couldnt take it anymore. Ihad to find a resolution for this floating steering. So I removed the top plate, frt trans assembly, and inspected all the parts for wear and tear. Note I built this car in March 03', and rebuilding/servicing it for the first time. The steering rack is like BUTTER!, but the horn leaves a lot to be desired. I get the question all the time, do you have steering servo breakages, or binding rack, and I reply NO. BUt this steering sloppiness was too much. So, I put some time into it, and found the problem. With using the factory horn(KO), and my Airtronics servo, the lip on the inside of the horn, was rubbing the case, therefor not allowing the screw to fully seat on the horn. I removed the excess material, reassembled the servo assembly, and tested it. WOW! Its amazing what a little time and patience does for me.
Now my next project is to retrofit the Kyosho V one RR EVO servo saver assembly to my car, and test that setup. I love it in my EVO, but it sits on the bench alot of the time. I will keep you informed on the progress.
Last I need a setup for a High traction track the is very techincal. I am open to anything to try. ANd does anyone have the part # for the updated tank? I was getting creamed on pitstops, every 5 1/2 minutes, while others are running 6-7minutes. I had to run super smooth trigger finger to maintain. I had fun though, TQ'd by 2 laps, finished 2 laps down.
Now my next project is to retrofit the Kyosho V one RR EVO servo saver assembly to my car, and test that setup. I love it in my EVO, but it sits on the bench alot of the time. I will keep you informed on the progress.
Last I need a setup for a High traction track the is very techincal. I am open to anything to try. ANd does anyone have the part # for the updated tank? I was getting creamed on pitstops, every 5 1/2 minutes, while others are running 6-7minutes. I had to run super smooth trigger finger to maintain. I had fun though, TQ'd by 2 laps, finished 2 laps down.
01-31-2004, 02:42 AM
#454
does it matter?
Lycan,
By far, the K Factory chassis is 1,000,000 x's better than the stock stamped plate. The quality, durability, and the jaw dropping asthetic value, are worth the difference in weight. Also neat features would be a lower graphite wing to mount your rx on face up, and kit supplied pins for balancing. To change the chassis, it takes about 20 mins. I love my K Fact chassis.
By far, the K Factory chassis is 1,000,000 x's better than the stock stamped plate. The quality, durability, and the jaw dropping asthetic value, are worth the difference in weight. Also neat features would be a lower graphite wing to mount your rx on face up, and kit supplied pins for balancing. To change the chassis, it takes about 20 mins. I love my K Fact chassis.
01-31-2004, 11:52 AM
#455
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Totally agree
I've just added one to my car and it is awesome, should have been the first item on my list of hop-ups.
I tried to use the pins to balance the car but it just flops over from side or the other. I cant for the life of me get the thing to stay "up". Will keep trying.
I've just added one to my car and it is awesome, should have been the first item on my list of hop-ups.
I tried to use the pins to balance the car but it just flops over from side or the other. I cant for the life of me get the thing to stay "up". Will keep trying.
02-01-2004, 06:56 AM
#456
I just won A main finals today driving this car. What can i say I really love this car. Qualified 2nd and won by 5 laps leaving all the other car brands including Serpent latest 710, V1RR Evos and MTX3 which I really like before I drive this car. It handles perfectly to my needs. I even set my track fastest record during last race. Regarding the the new tank, it really is has more cc than the old one eventhough it looks just as the same( haven't got time to measure the cc though). I can squeeze around 45 sec to 1 min with this tank.
02-01-2004, 07:29 PM
#458
Tech Fanatic
dameetz... Great job!!! I have a question for everyone... I'm using a Airtronics M8 radio and servos on one car and the same radio and Hitec servos on the other. Both cars are gliching bad... Run aways at full throttle ect... I'm losing throttle signal at about 40-50 feet and steering starts to go at 50-60 feet. All fresh batteries and charged... This problem has destroy one car already.. For the life of me, I can't figure it out... I've re-wired the car at least 5 times, bought new radio, receiver, and crystals.. Same problem. Is there anyone else having the same problem using the M8??? I didn't have this problem using my old MX-3 or really old CX2P... What radio's are you guys using and how are you wiring your cars??? I notice that both the steering and throttle servos rest very close together in the chassis.... Any and all replys on this is much appreicated!!! Oh, I've been to Airtronics twice on this and they are telling me there is nother wrong with any of my equipment... but I have a totally cherried car in pieces... And the other I won't run unit this problem is corrected...
RC_Alan
RC_Alan
02-01-2004, 08:29 PM
#459
Doesn't anybody use failsafes? Anyway I use the JR XS3.
Z550 for throttle and the airtronics 94358 for steering.
Ofna failsafe too. Here are some pics. I broke my receiver mount, so I had to come up with another way to mount the receiver. I took a .99 antenna wrapper. Looks like a long h plate for a mini z and just screwed in place of the receiver mount and used zip ties.
Z550 for throttle and the airtronics 94358 for steering.
Ofna failsafe too. Here are some pics. I broke my receiver mount, so I had to come up with another way to mount the receiver. I took a .99 antenna wrapper. Looks like a long h plate for a mini z and just screwed in place of the receiver mount and used zip ties.
02-01-2004, 10:16 PM
#460
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Hi rc_alan,
I run an M8 also. I havent had any interference/glitching probs.
However, I dont run the Sanwa reciever. I use a Ko-propo 302F.
The car does glitch quite badly when the transmitter is turned off (100x worse than any other car I've owned before) but as soon as the radio is turned back on its sweet. No interference of any sort.
Could it be coming from the engine/clutch?
Lycan
I run an M8 also. I havent had any interference/glitching probs.
However, I dont run the Sanwa reciever. I use a Ko-propo 302F.
The car does glitch quite badly when the transmitter is turned off (100x worse than any other car I've owned before) but as soon as the radio is turned back on its sweet. No interference of any sort.
Could it be coming from the engine/clutch?
Lycan
02-01-2004, 11:49 PM
#462
Nice car
good spot for the fuel filter 
02-01-2004, 11:56 PM
#463
Set up
This is my set up when I won the main yesterday:
Front:
Droop 2
Left Camber 2.5 deg
Right Camber 2.0 deg
Toe out 1 deg
Ride Height 6 mm
Track Width 199 mm
Shocks position inner hole using K Fac Carbon Shock Holder
Shocks oil 400 (Tornado Silicone Shocks Oil)
Shocks Spring Mugen Purple Spring
Rear:
Droop 4
Left Camber 6.5 deg
Right Camber 5.5 deg
Toe in 2 deg
Ride Height 7 mm
Track Width 200 mm
Shocks Position inner most using stock plastic mounting
Shocks Oil stock 600
Shocks Spring stock Silver
I m using Speedmind 37 shore all around. One more thing if you want a better and smooth braking use the SQUARE brand red pad. I got it from rcmodel.com, it is actually for V1RR but it fits perfectly to G4 steel brake caliper.This thing is awesome. I never got fading problem and never once I adjust the brake ATL during the mains final. It will make braking very smooth and consistent.
Front:
Droop 2
Left Camber 2.5 deg
Right Camber 2.0 deg
Toe out 1 deg
Ride Height 6 mm
Track Width 199 mm
Shocks position inner hole using K Fac Carbon Shock Holder
Shocks oil 400 (Tornado Silicone Shocks Oil)
Shocks Spring Mugen Purple Spring
Rear:
Droop 4
Left Camber 6.5 deg
Right Camber 5.5 deg
Toe in 2 deg
Ride Height 7 mm
Track Width 200 mm
Shocks Position inner most using stock plastic mounting
Shocks Oil stock 600
Shocks Spring stock Silver
I m using Speedmind 37 shore all around. One more thing if you want a better and smooth braking use the SQUARE brand red pad. I got it from rcmodel.com, it is actually for V1RR but it fits perfectly to G4 steel brake caliper.This thing is awesome. I never got fading problem and never once I adjust the brake ATL during the mains final. It will make braking very smooth and consistent.
02-02-2004, 03:20 AM
#465
Camber
Initialy I adjust the camber to 3 deg left and 2.5 deg right but it ended up the tyres worn out unevenly ( outer ) so I keep on adding more camber until it wears evenly. I guess it depends on the track design (mine has lots of 180deg tight turn ) and rear roll center of any car design as well, because my MTX just need around 3 deg but my V1RREvo need the same camber deg as my G4.