Ask Aaron Waldron
#1051
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
Originally posted by Aaron Waldron
I ran the new molded Taper Pin fronts for the first time at Hot Rod this past week. It's awesome..the great predictable handling of the 4wd fronts we would cut down, but without the work! I would recommend dremeling or using good scissors to cut down the ribs along the tire about half of their height, but other than that, the tire is really good.
Silvers will give you more steering into the corner and less out, while reds will give you less steering into the corner, but more exit steering, and will release the corner easier than Silvers.
The X-5 looks like a pretty cool car, but parts support for the old XX-4 may hold it back. We will have to wait and see if they can get the car up to speed, I heard it did well at the ROAR Nationals.
I never ran my BK1 in mod; I would check the Losi site in the setup sheet section for a good starting point, and work your way from there. I had good luck with Matt Francis' setup as it was very stable and easy to drive, but needed something more on edge for stock racing.
I would start with this:
Front: 0 deg. toe-in, arms just above level, -.5 deg camber, outside on bellcranks, camber link 2-B with .030 under the ballstud.
Shocks: 25 wt. with 57's, orange springs, A spacer inside (.090) mounted inside on tower and arm,
Rear: stock toe-in, stock anti-squat, bones level, -1/2 deg. camber, steel dogbones, hubs middle, wing forward and bottom, camber link 2-A.
Shocks: 30 wt. with 56's, yellow springs, .050 limiters. Mounted 2 on tower, inside on arm
Battery: 1/8" back.
My BK2 setup (for smooth blue groove)
Front - 3 deg. toe-in, ride height arms level, -1 deg. camber, stock caster blocks, spindle down, inside hole on the bellcranks, short arms, camber link 2-A with one washer. One washer on both the spindle ballstud and the bellcrank ballstud. Trinity aluminum front pivot block.
Shocks: 35wt, 55's, green springs. Mounted inside in the tower, outside on the arm.
Rear: stock toe-in, stock anti-squat, bones leve, -.5 deg. camber, hubs middle, steel dogbones, wing forward and bottom, short arms. Camber link 1-B.
Shocks: 40wt, 54's, red springs, .060 limiters. Mounted inside on tower, outside on arm.
Battery: Forward
Body: stock BK2
Wing: A-8107 XXX V-wing with a 1/4 inch wicker strip.
I ran the new molded Taper Pin fronts for the first time at Hot Rod this past week. It's awesome..the great predictable handling of the 4wd fronts we would cut down, but without the work! I would recommend dremeling or using good scissors to cut down the ribs along the tire about half of their height, but other than that, the tire is really good.
Silvers will give you more steering into the corner and less out, while reds will give you less steering into the corner, but more exit steering, and will release the corner easier than Silvers.
The X-5 looks like a pretty cool car, but parts support for the old XX-4 may hold it back. We will have to wait and see if they can get the car up to speed, I heard it did well at the ROAR Nationals.
I never ran my BK1 in mod; I would check the Losi site in the setup sheet section for a good starting point, and work your way from there. I had good luck with Matt Francis' setup as it was very stable and easy to drive, but needed something more on edge for stock racing.
I would start with this:
Front: 0 deg. toe-in, arms just above level, -.5 deg camber, outside on bellcranks, camber link 2-B with .030 under the ballstud.
Shocks: 25 wt. with 57's, orange springs, A spacer inside (.090) mounted inside on tower and arm,
Rear: stock toe-in, stock anti-squat, bones level, -1/2 deg. camber, steel dogbones, hubs middle, wing forward and bottom, camber link 2-A.
Shocks: 30 wt. with 56's, yellow springs, .050 limiters. Mounted 2 on tower, inside on arm
Battery: 1/8" back.
My BK2 setup (for smooth blue groove)
Front - 3 deg. toe-in, ride height arms level, -1 deg. camber, stock caster blocks, spindle down, inside hole on the bellcranks, short arms, camber link 2-A with one washer. One washer on both the spindle ballstud and the bellcrank ballstud. Trinity aluminum front pivot block.
Shocks: 35wt, 55's, green springs. Mounted inside in the tower, outside on the arm.
Rear: stock toe-in, stock anti-squat, bones leve, -.5 deg. camber, hubs middle, steel dogbones, wing forward and bottom, short arms. Camber link 1-B.
Shocks: 40wt, 54's, red springs, .060 limiters. Mounted inside on tower, outside on arm.
Battery: Forward
Body: stock BK2
Wing: A-8107 XXX V-wing with a 1/4 inch wicker strip.
#1052
that seems like a pretty stiff suspension set up. what kind of track is hot rod? if its not a rock hard track ill try it myself
#1054
Aaron are u running the new jammin buggy do you know when its going to be available
#1055
mafia - I don't know where my MF2 setup is..it's buried in here somewhere..haha
beetle - Hot Rod is pretty much as smooth as glass. I never really race electric on anything rough so all of my setups are quite stiff.
bigl - I just got my buggy in pieces yesterday, so I haven't started running it yet.
It should be in stores before Christmas.
beetle - Hot Rod is pretty much as smooth as glass. I never really race electric on anything rough so all of my setups are quite stiff.
bigl - I just got my buggy in pieces yesterday, so I haven't started running it yet.
It should be in stores before Christmas.
#1056
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
To tell you the truth...I have always had success with the Cavaleri setup.... http://www.teamlosi.com/pictures/jpe...e_losirace.jpg I'f I'm having a hard time finding something that works...this tends to be a great all around setup. I like to use it as my base and I run it quite often.
#1057
Hahahaha I like the comments Todd added on the bottom.
#1059
I'm pretty darn sure Todd was the one who put that comment on there..I don't remember where I heard that from...
I'm not sure who does the website. I think Ken and Richard share duties.
I'm not sure who does the website. I think Ken and Richard share duties.
#1061
Hey Aaron-What color springs do you use on a track that has hard packed clay,loamy clay,and slick spots combined?
#1063
I assume you're talking about the XXX-NT?
If that's the case..I never stray from the standard Adam Drake setup, regardless of track conditions. It has proven again and again to be very consistent and works well.
If that's the case..I never stray from the standard Adam Drake setup, regardless of track conditions. It has proven again and again to be very consistent and works well.
#1065
I always run the fuel out of the engine completely and use after-run oil before I store the engine for more than 12 hours.
If you do that, you shouldn't have to do anything else to it.
If you do that, you shouldn't have to do anything else to it.