Tamiya TRF801XT
#2431
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
most people here got their truggy on closeout from tamiya from a few years ago, at least thats when i got mine, its old, heavy, has weak front arms, some think the entire kit is fragile, i have no other truggy experience, mainly buggy but was a cheap way to get into a second class, to see if i like it, and i loooove truggy, i cant compare what it drives like, i started from scratch and just played with it until i felt it was neutral for my driving...i like how smooth the drivetrain is, and i like how it drives... im not serious enough to justify buying new kits every year something new comes out, but it was worth the cost to upgrade the arms and experiment with c-hubs, knuckles, shocks and driveshafts, was still cheaper than a new kit, and at the rate new kits are being introduced, its crazy to run a kit for 6months and sell it here to get the next... im not hardcore competitive, just a "club" level hobbyist, having fun
if you find one cheap, i personally think there fantastic, plenty new kits that are better, but for what it is, i like mine, and ill keep running it until i run out of drivetrain parts
if you find one cheap, i personally think there fantastic, plenty new kits that are better, but for what it is, i like mine, and ill keep running it until i run out of drivetrain parts
I am running 3.8 rock rage wheels on mine with a Proline Yeti svt body. Running 6s with a Castle Mamba Monster esc and 1900kv brushless can. 45t spur and 15t pinion. Absolutely rips and probably would be better off on 4s, but 6s is what I got. First time out I stripped the metal pinion and spur within the first 15ft. Went to a plastic spur from either a Kyosho or Losi buggy/truggy.
Also building an 801x as an SCT rig since its the same wheelbase as a slash or sc10 or the like. At the moment just figuring out how to mount the body posts and bumpers. running it on just 2s with a HobbyWing Xerun Pro SCT esc and 4700kv 3536 motor. Considering dropping down to a 3800kv so I can run 3s and have the same rpm values as the 801XT. That said its not exactly underpowered on 2s... just needs nice quality batteries. Think 100c discharge rates.
I know this thread is a LONG read but its well worth it. Take notes on what is compatible in terms of replacement parts and you will be much better off down the road for it.
#2432
Tech Rookie
That's awesome man, I just got done running my Tamiya 801xt on a local track. Running 4s with monster mamba 2200kv. Love the truck, just bought a t bone basher front. Only issue I'm having with this truggy is the a arms, I've boiled them, but seems to still break. I'm sure you know it's a pain to find parts, I actually built a second kit last month to have parts. Is there any replacement arms you can recommend? I've looked it up and found a few ideas but what to see how your a arms are doing.
-Mike
-Mike
#2433
Tech Rookie
Anyone have any thoughts on changing the front a arms?
#2434
Tech Champion
The drivetrain on this truck is good, but the rest is mostly very poor quality. The arms are of course the main weak point. But the shock towers and shocks are also quite bad.
It was definitely worth a 100 bucks though..
If there were a good solid easy arm solution I'd be a lot happier about having mine plus one spare kit as a backup.... The overall experience of having the truck would be much, much better.
It was definitely worth a 100 bucks though..
If there were a good solid easy arm solution I'd be a lot happier about having mine plus one spare kit as a backup.... The overall experience of having the truck would be much, much better.
#2435
if you go far back in the thread somewhere, i posted pictures on what i did, i used xray xt8 arms front and rear, and kyosho mp9 readyset front hubs and knuckles
i was able to use the stock "long arm" driveshafts with this setup and minimal fitting with the dremel here and there, mainly to ensure free movement around the c hub and arm, than drilled pilot holes for new droop screw locations.. the kyosho parts came complete with bearings, screws, post bushings... i havent broken an arm since i put it together, even though i bought like 3 sets of replacement xray parts
i also have a set of d8t tessmann edition cvds, i was gonna see if they were long enough to swap back to the tamiya front knuckles and hubs with the xray arms, if i could find aluminum kyosho front hubs for cheap, id use them... the readyset hubs and xray arms are really flexy at the hub end, and the tamiya hubs have options for link locations the kyosho stuff doesnt...
hope that helps
i was able to use the stock "long arm" driveshafts with this setup and minimal fitting with the dremel here and there, mainly to ensure free movement around the c hub and arm, than drilled pilot holes for new droop screw locations.. the kyosho parts came complete with bearings, screws, post bushings... i havent broken an arm since i put it together, even though i bought like 3 sets of replacement xray parts
i also have a set of d8t tessmann edition cvds, i was gonna see if they were long enough to swap back to the tamiya front knuckles and hubs with the xray arms, if i could find aluminum kyosho front hubs for cheap, id use them... the readyset hubs and xray arms are really flexy at the hub end, and the tamiya hubs have options for link locations the kyosho stuff doesnt...
hope that helps
#2436
Tech Rookie
if you go far back in the thread somewhere, i posted pictures on what i did, i used xray xt8 arms front and rear, and kyosho mp9 readyset front hubs and knuckles
i was able to use the stock "long arm" driveshafts with this setup and minimal fitting with the dremel here and there, mainly to ensure free movement around the c hub and arm, than drilled pilot holes for new droop screw locations.. the kyosho parts came complete with bearings, screws, post bushings... i havent broken an arm since i put it together, even though i bought like 3 sets of replacement xray parts
i also have a set of d8t tessmann edition cvds, i was gonna see if they were long enough to swap back to the tamiya front knuckles and hubs with the xray arms, if i could find aluminum kyosho front hubs for cheap, id use them... the readyset hubs and xray arms are really flexy at the hub end, and the tamiya hubs have options for link locations the kyosho stuff doesnt...
hope that helps
i was able to use the stock "long arm" driveshafts with this setup and minimal fitting with the dremel here and there, mainly to ensure free movement around the c hub and arm, than drilled pilot holes for new droop screw locations.. the kyosho parts came complete with bearings, screws, post bushings... i havent broken an arm since i put it together, even though i bought like 3 sets of replacement xray parts
i also have a set of d8t tessmann edition cvds, i was gonna see if they were long enough to swap back to the tamiya front knuckles and hubs with the xray arms, if i could find aluminum kyosho front hubs for cheap, id use them... the readyset hubs and xray arms are really flexy at the hub end, and the tamiya hubs have options for link locations the kyosho stuff doesnt...
hope that helps
#2437
the platform is 9 years old, so its really up to you to break out a ruler and caliper, measure stuff, go to the hobby shop and cross reference random parts, im really into the home brew side of r/c, mis matching and tinkering in general, but also taking cost effectiveness into account, do you really wanna drop loot on retrofits or sell it all and just get a current kit... i didnt want to spend 6 bills on a truggy+tires, just to see if i "liked" driving one... and i wasnt too into trucks to buy someone elses roller, but man, a 100 dollar shipped kit was a deal
i have so many mismatched parts on my truck i couldnt begin to point you in the right direction, but its still in one piece, too bad truggy racing is kinda dead around me, all about the ebuggy for now!
#2438
for you lazy fools still trying to keep this junk together ... hope this helps
#2439
Tech Adept
just picked up one of these as a roller with the rcmonster e conversion kit and the thing is awesome, I picked up the xray arms and kyosho mp9 knuckles and hubs like suggested by The Wrench just as backups. I think between this thread and the similar one at Ultimate rc I'm not too worried about figuring out replacement parts ...
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[IMG] [/IMG]
#2440
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
The drivetrain on this truck is good, but the rest is mostly very poor quality. The arms are of course the main weak point. But the shock towers and shocks are also quite bad.
It was definitely worth a 100 bucks though..
If there were a good solid easy arm solution I'd be a lot happier about having mine plus one spare kit as a backup.... The overall experience of having the truck would be much, much better.
It was definitely worth a 100 bucks though..
If there were a good solid easy arm solution I'd be a lot happier about having mine plus one spare kit as a backup.... The overall experience of having the truck would be much, much better.
#2441
Tech Adept
Blew my rear ring and pinion and was able to replace with the kyosho st-rr evo ring and pinion mounted to stock diff works perfectly
#2442
Tech Champion
I boiled my first set of arms and it made no difference.
I still run mine though for messing around. I wouldn't use it for big air or anything. But again, for the money it's been great. I have a whole spare kit and a few arms left over. So it does the job…
I still run mine though for messing around. I wouldn't use it for big air or anything. But again, for the money it's been great. I have a whole spare kit and a few arms left over. So it does the job…
#2443
Does anyone has an extra motor mount conversion for sale?
or any suggestion where to get it.
Thank you.
or any suggestion where to get it.
Thank you.
#2444
Tech Champion
For brushless? I got the cheap one from Kershaw. I think it's basically just an Integy conversion for an AE RC8... I don't race or do anything too extreme, but it has held up really well.. No issues in a couple years and dozens of packs through it.
#2445
Tech Champion
So, I don't even know anymore when I got them, but back when they were being sold off for $99, I got two. The first I built and converted to brushless(see above I guess..), and the second has been sitting in the garage for..... what, five years? Anyway, after taking my Associated fleet (RC8T, SC8, RC8B)* and LST2 a couple weeks ago, I got the bug to build the second kit. I have tons of tires, couple spare engines, etc etc... still. What I don't have is servos. I may just throw some cheap RTR Losi servos in there. All I plan to to is race around on a parking lot.. Very happy with the simple red paint job though..
Gonna' drop my RB Fire 11 with 2058 in it... BEASTY...
* Here's my recent outing with the AE fleet. The cars are like 10 years old, and the fuel must be at least five.. I've been taking them out basically once a year to just see if they still run. And amazingly, they do... I love nitro.
Gonna' drop my RB Fire 11 with 2058 in it... BEASTY...
* Here's my recent outing with the AE fleet. The cars are like 10 years old, and the fuel must be at least five.. I've been taking them out basically once a year to just see if they still run. And amazingly, they do... I love nitro.