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Old 06-09-2008, 07:56 AM
  #1456  
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droop screw's on our cars or better yett on ANY alum chassy car is the worst freekin design ive ever seen.....all they do it Gouge little holes in the chassy and loose the setting within a couple heats.....companies should really think up something better or do like Robert At Matrix concepts did and use replacable droop tabs...so u can actually set it without fear of Notching the chassy and needing to replace it for the fact u cant set droop anymore......im sorry..but were all not sponsored driver's and cant just take a chassy whenever we want...and at 100$ a pop...i just dont set my droop anymore....ill make it Barely TOUCH the chassy...and even then on big landing's or Tumbles the chassy still gets notched...URG....but ya on the bigbore thing cherokee if its the Hobao BB's...there too long...and the jammmin's..well....i kno there a wee shorter then the mugen 5T/5R shocks...so there still gonna be Overly long for the losi....and i dont know what ur buddy's doin with all the extra droop.....i would fear the bones would start popping out n stuff with Too much travel....i dunno find out more and let us know.
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Old 06-10-2008, 09:46 PM
  #1457  
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I have a pro roller that is brand new. I havent even put servos on it yet. I was going to get all the stuff put on it and I noticed when the center diff is turning while on the truggy it feels like something is binding. I have looked while spinning the center diff and can not see anything such as the brake linkage rubbing. There is no wear or marks on the diff case. It is just not smooth in spots while turning. Again this thing is brand new. Has anyone seen this and if so what do I need to check? Could it be the internal diff gears even though its new? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 06-11-2008, 06:33 AM
  #1458  
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BRAND new trucks will feel notchy at first....everything needs to seet in...if the problem is still there after the first couple tanks i would look into it further.
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Old 06-11-2008, 07:03 AM
  #1459  
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Thats what I was hoping. Thanks so much.
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Old 06-11-2008, 07:20 AM
  #1460  
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Originally Posted by rcdaddy
Thats what I was hoping. Thanks so much.



there is 1 thing u can do if the rear diff is notchy after the fact...add a couple .1 shims behind the bearing on the ring gear side....this will push the mesh JUST far enuff to make it smooooth as silk but u do have to "snap" it into place...which can be a pain if ur in a hurry.
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:39 AM
  #1461  
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Neobuggy posted today the Lightweight zero off-set rims for the 8T.
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Old 06-13-2008, 12:03 PM
  #1462  
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Originally Posted by air8
Neobuggy posted today the Lightweight zero off-set rims for the 8T.


Interesting. ...but u mean Half off rims tho.
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Old 06-13-2008, 01:34 PM
  #1463  
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Uhhh, sorry but you lost me. Half-off's as in half the weight? I'm slow, sorry.
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Old 06-13-2008, 01:53 PM
  #1464  
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Originally Posted by air8
Uhhh, sorry but you lost me. Half-off's as in half the weight? I'm slow, sorry.
u said they were lightweight zero-off wheels....meanwhile there half off....Mugen's run zero.

its ok Air...we all have our days.
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Old 06-13-2008, 05:52 PM
  #1465  
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Air- Offset
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Old 06-13-2008, 08:30 PM
  #1466  
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LOL. I think I am off-set.

So the zero off-set rims are referred to as half-offs?
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Old 06-14-2008, 12:30 AM
  #1467  
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Integra was correcting a minor mistake in what you said & now it is a big confusing dilema:
"Neobuggy posted today the Lightweight zero off-set rims for the 8T."
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Old 06-14-2008, 01:36 AM
  #1468  
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I just put in a set of the M2C oversized outer hinge pins (on the hubs) and hope that will help me not to bend them. I ran the stock ones for a while and as long as I ran very clean they were fine, but one bad rut or tumble and the rear end went away due to the pins being bent. Anyone try the M2C pins? Look to be pretty stout, but took away some meat when I drilled out the arms and hubs and hope those parts don't brake because of it.
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Old 06-14-2008, 02:12 AM
  #1469  
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
I just put in a set of the M2C oversized outer hinge pins (on the hubs) and hope that will help me not to bend them. I ran the stock ones for a while and as long as I ran very clean they were fine, but one bad rut or tumble and the rear end went away due to the pins being bent. Anyone try the M2C pins? Look to be pretty stout, but took away some meat when I drilled out the arms and hubs and hope those parts don't brake because of it.
Don't worry they are awsome and the hubs and arms can take some real bad beatings without breaking.

mzl Hellsavage
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Old 06-14-2008, 03:41 AM
  #1470  
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Does anybody know what size the threads are in the alumimum front spindles? Thanks Mark
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