262LikesXray T4 18
07-17-2018, 03:49 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'18 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time. Feel free to add anything you feel is useful to the community!
New for 2018: Similar to 2017, the T4'18 kit comes available in the U.S. with either a Graphite chassis (Part no. XRA300024), or Aluminum Flex chassis (Part no. XRA300024A) along with all of the great features introduced last year. We recommend the Graphite chassis for starting on asphalt, and the Aluminum Flex for starting on carpet. The big changes for 2018 are much lower center of gravity, courtesy of the Ultra Low Profile (ULP) shocks/towers and narrower weight distribution by shifting the motor in towards the center-line of the car. In moving the motor closer to the center, the topdeck and layshaft bulkheads have been re-designed. Also new this year, the motor mount includes more holes which extend further toward the rear of the car to improve traction. With the new shorter shocks, the 2018 will use the same springs as previous T4 models. What's NEW at T4 2018? Convert your '17 to '18 specs with these parts: - NEW chassis plate (3 options to chose from, Graphite, Aluminum, Alum. Flex) - NEW topdeck - NEW ULP shocks (4mm shorter than 2017) - NEW ULP shock towers (4mm shorter than 2017) - NEW Motor mount (1mm narrower than 2017) - NEW Motor mount plate - NEW layshaft bulkheads - NEW 51mm ECS ES driveshafts 301145 T4'18 CHASSIS 2.2MM GRAPHITE 301199 T4'18 UPPER DECK 2.0MM GRAPHITE 302084 ULP SHOCK TOWER FRONT 3.0MM GRAPHITE 303001-O T4'18 ALU LAYSHAFT BULKHEAD RIGHT - ORANGE 303002-O T4'18 ALU MOTOR MOUNT - ORANGE 303003-O T4'18 ALU MOTOR MOUNT PLATE - ORANGE 303085 ULP SHOCK TOWER REAR 3.0MM GRAPHITE 305221 ECS (ES) DRIVE SHAFT 51MM FOR 2MM PIN - HUDY SPRING STEEL(tm) (1) 305334 ECS ES (EXTRA STRONG) DRIVE SHAFT 51MM - HUDY SPRING STEEL(tm) - SET 308043-O ULP ALU SHOCK ADJUSTABLE NUT - ORANGE (2) 308308-O ULP ALU SHOCK ABSORBER-SET - ORANGE (2) 308324 ULP ALU SHOCK BODY (2) 308334 ULP COMPOSITE SHOCK PARTS 308354-O ULP ALU SHOCK CAP-NUT WITH VENT HOLE - ORANGE (2) Tips & Tricks: Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body Setting static camber How to mount weight on your chassis Part1 How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies Simple troubleshooting guide How to mount the battery on your chassis How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson Mastering the Sanwa M12S: Utilizing Exponential and RMode How to mount weight on your chassis Part2 Mastering the Sanwa M12S: Utilizing TH-Hold ULP Shock: Building the new ULP Shock w/ Zero Rebound by Dominic Quek Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful build tips for the T4'16 on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit. These tips will still apply on the current model. 1- Carbon Parts 2-Suspension 3-Solid Axle and Differential 4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain 5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD) 6-Front & Rear Suspension 7-Tweak 8-Anti-Roll Bar 9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL) 10-Bumper & Body 11-Shocks 12-Steering Center Brace: The manual indicates using a 2mm shim under the center brace when attaching to the chassis plate. The gap is actually 3mm, so a 3mm shim should be used here. Tuning Note: On Carpet we have found that adding screws or doubling up the graphite brace will make the car react quicker to steering input, & change direction faster. Raising the graphite brace off of the aluminum bulkheads by placing a shim under it on the front and rear holes will reduce response. Using the tie-rod will reduce initial response to input, but will generate more in-corner traction or 'side-bite'. Using no brace will generate even more of this 'side-bite' but all of this is at the expense of corner speed. Best to use the tie-rod or no brace only in low-traction conditions. Additionally, the center brace increases forward traction, so removing it will potentially increase wheel-spin out of low speed corners. New Graphite Hubs: Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options. ARS Tuning courtesy of Ed (TryHard): If you set the ARS up with no shims under either inside or outside ball positions, it actually adds toe-in under compression, at around 1° at 5.2mm ride height (how much it adds depends how much the car compresses, obviously  )Adding shims reduces the amount added (1mm under one of the links gives about 0.5°), until the link has 2mm worth of shims (1mm either side, or 2mm on one side) makes the ARS neutral. Adding more shims then turns it into reducing toe in under compression. Whilst that might sound a bit backwards, it's actually not quite as simple as it sounds. By having the links to add toe, you gain forward traction. Also consider as the car rolls, the inside wheel is in negative compression, and the outside in compression. So the inside is toe-ing out, and the outside toe-ing in, so the whole rear is then 'steering' in the direction of the turn. Obviously the inside wheel has a lot less influence than the outside as it's far less loaded, but the effect is still there. Optional & Tuning Parts to consider: XRA301146 T4'18 ALU CHASSIS 2.0MM - SWISS 7075 T6 **For very high traction** (Approx. 108g) XRA301147 T4'18 ALU FLEX CHASSIS 2.0MM - SWISS 7075 T6 **For high traction** (Approx. 93g) XRA301169 T4'18 UPPER DECK 1.6MM GRAPHITE XRA302254 Composite Steering Block - Graphite XRA302334 Aluminum C-Hub Block - Caster 0° - Orange **Only for ARS** XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4° - Graphite (ECS) **Not recommended for high traction** XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4° - Graphite (ECS) **Not recommended for high traction** XRA302711 Brass Front Lower 1-Piece Suspension Holder - Front - FF XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar XRA303360 Composite Upright 0° Outboard Toe-In - Graphite XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel **Highly recommend** XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4) XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2) XRA305352 Aluminum Wheel Hub - Offset “+0.75mm” - Black (QTY 2) XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder XRA308029 ULP ALU PROGRESSIVE SHOCK SYSTEM - SET (2) **Only for asphalt** XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2) XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2) XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2) Recent Setups: 7-Oct - Alexander Hagberg - IIC - High Traction Carpet - Mod Q2, P2 7-Oct - Craig Xavier - IIC - High Traction Carpet - SuperStock Q5, P5 
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12-07-2017, 07:19 PM
#467
Tech Adept
You are right on the increased mid corner rotation of the ULP over the SLP a trait i felt the x rays were always weaker at compared to other mamkes and looks like x ray have hit it right this time with the introduction of the ulp shocks. This is coming from a T4 15 16 17 and has been consistently tested on a factory x ray sponsored driver. It works fine on low to mid traction asphalt provided the oil used does not exceed 400 wt.
Been running the ULP shocks here on low-medium grip asphalt out here in Australia (it's summer time).
In mod, combined with the PSS inserts, 450 seems on the money. With the SLP's, I would tend to run 550 everywhere, so the lighter oil in the ULP's seems to be about right. I think in part it's down to the PSS inserts being a little more aggressive in the damping rate increase, as they are shorter. I have noticed that the new PSS also seems to prefer less droop than the old SLP/PSS combo... 5.6/4.6 is my new go to instead of 5.2/4.2. Running more, and the car just locks up in the turns.
For the Stock car, with standard shocks, 400 has seemed pretty good, but in cooler times, can deff see 350 working well.
Our tracks aren't super smooth, but so far have been just as fast with the ULP than the SLP. One thing I have noticed with the ULPs is that they seem to give the car more mid-corner rotation. Haven't yet figured out why this is yet though.
In mod, combined with the PSS inserts, 450 seems on the money. With the SLP's, I would tend to run 550 everywhere, so the lighter oil in the ULP's seems to be about right. I think in part it's down to the PSS inserts being a little more aggressive in the damping rate increase, as they are shorter. I have noticed that the new PSS also seems to prefer less droop than the old SLP/PSS combo... 5.6/4.6 is my new go to instead of 5.2/4.2. Running more, and the car just locks up in the turns.
For the Stock car, with standard shocks, 400 has seemed pretty good, but in cooler times, can deff see 350 working well.
Our tracks aren't super smooth, but so far have been just as fast with the ULP than the SLP. One thing I have noticed with the ULPs is that they seem to give the car more mid-corner rotation. Haven't yet figured out why this is yet though.
12-11-2017, 02:18 AM
#471
12-11-2017, 05:28 AM
#473
I have the T4 2017. Is it worth upgrading to the ULP shocks? I only race on carpet.
12-12-2017, 07:30 PM
#475
Tech Apprentice
Hi Guys.
On med grip asphalt is the front spring preference a linear or progressive spring. Which one tends to work best most of the time. I have the kit 2.5 and have purchased the 2.6 springs as well.
Just wondering if I need to splash out on the progressives as well.
thanks in advance
On med grip asphalt is the front spring preference a linear or progressive spring. Which one tends to work best most of the time. I have the kit 2.5 and have purchased the 2.6 springs as well.
Just wondering if I need to splash out on the progressives as well.
thanks in advance
12-12-2017, 09:49 PM
#476
Hey I apologize if this was answered previously but I didn’t make it through all the post. I have a T4’13 that I enjoy running but the chassis is almost done. Going to make this my VTA car as I’m picking up a used T4’17 for my USGT ride. However since I’m a racer on a budget I can’t really shell out for a new T4’18. Any chance the 17 or 18 chassis can be used with ‘13 hardware? Same mounting holes? Can’t seem to find a ‘13 chassis anywhere online.
12-12-2017, 09:54 PM
#477
Hey I apologize if this was answered previously but I didn’t make it through all the post. I have a T4’13 that I enjoy running but the chassis is almost done. Going to make this my VTA car as I’m picking up a used T4’17 for my USGT ride. However since I’m a racer on a budget I can’t really shell out for a new T4’18. Any chance the 17 or 18 chassis can be used with ‘13 hardware? Same mounting holes? Can’t seem to find a ‘13 chassis anywhere online.
T4 2013 Chassis, Std, Bezerk RC
12-12-2017, 10:09 PM
#478
12-13-2017, 12:12 AM
#479
Hey I apologize if this was answered previously but I didn’t make it through all the post. I have a T4’13 that I enjoy running but the chassis is almost done. Going to make this my VTA car as I’m picking up a used T4’17 for my USGT ride. However since I’m a racer on a budget I can’t really shell out for a new T4’18. Any chance the 17 or 18 chassis can be used with ‘13 hardware? Same mounting holes? Can’t seem to find a ‘13 chassis anywhere online.
Starting with the 2014 car Xray switched to a different suspension mount style that has carried up to the 2018. This means that if buying a newer chassis, you also need all new suspension mounts, which is quite a bit of dough. If say updating a 2014 car to something newer, you can save this expense. Another change from 2015 was to the bearing mounted sway bars, using different bulkheads. This isn't really a performance thing, but is easier to eliminate slop and is smoother than the 2013-14 design. Not necessary if upgrading, but worth noting. The biggest changes from 2014-now have to do with the center of the chassis. Xray moved to a new servo mount that is longer than the 2013-14 car, so if upgrading to any newer chassis you also need a servo mount. In 2017 Xray went to a hanging carbon servo plate, which is optional, and uses the same bottom chassis holes as previous cars, so it can be transferred between model years. The largest change between all the model years has to do with the motor mount. It is something that changes regularly year to year, adding new flex adjustments, moving it slightly and requiring new holes in the chassis. The layshaft mounts have changed slightly as well as integrating the left side into the motor mount, might need the matching pair as well. So if you were still on board to try and update your '13 to say a '16 chassis, you would need to buy the '16 specific motor mount, as a newer or older one would not line up well, if at all. Then you get to the ULP shocks on the '18 but that can be viewed as a tuning option, same with ARS.
So to sum up, to upgrade your 2013 you need (using the cheapest new/used ebay prices):
-Chassis $100 -could buy a cheaper off-brand...
-Suspension mounting blocks $45
-Servo mount $35
-Motor mount specific to the model year chassis $45
Optional:
-Updated bulkheads $45
-Bearing mounted sway bars $15
-ARS $35
-ECS Shafts (wasn't standard on the '13, if you don't have them already) $60
So you're looking at dropping $200+ to update your car to an older, yet still competitive model. I would value a nice T4'13 around $200, a 15-16 closer to the $300 range, and a 17 up to $400+. So For the price of your current car/upgrades you would need, it makes more sense to just buy a newer-used model. Even upgrading a 2014 would be substantially less given the suspension mounts. The T4 was very different than the T3, but since 2013 the new cars share almost 0 carbon/aluminum parts with the original T4, while merely evolutions, they are still different. So I elected to go the route of a used T4'17
All that said, I have a very nice spare carbon chassis for the T4'13 car, complete with suspension mounts. Feel free to make me an offer.
12-13-2017, 05:23 AM
#480
Gotta agree. My first Xray TC was a T4 '13 that I got in late 2012 (wow, 5 years goes by fast). I haven't bought a new Xray TC until the '18. Even though Xray does very minor changes year by year....after 5 years, it adds up, lol. 
FYI, I was never happy with my T4 '13 handling and ditched it soon after to go with another brand.. I feel Xray didn't get it right until the '15 or so. Just my opinion...
FYI, I was never happy with my T4 '13 handling and ditched it soon after to go with another brand.. I feel Xray didn't get it right until the '15 or so. Just my opinion...