NEW XRAY T2
#4921
Yea, it needs more contact area for better wear. But maybe they think it would cause binding if they did that.
#4922
Originally Posted by protc3
i have the bodies ready,i am finishing the outdrives and then i send them out for hardening.it shouldnt take much longer.
#4925
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by cornerspeed
Yea, it needs more contact area for better wear. But maybe they think it would cause binding if they did that.
#4926
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
After reading the last few posts I went and looked at both of my T2's... one is my 19t foam car and the other my rubber tire car. Both have been run hard and neither has had a blade changed yet. I can see no blade wear on either car.... I remember changing a blade on my 05 once.... but I think it was due to a bad crash
#4927
Tech Champion
iTrader: (208)
Originally Posted by cornerspeed
Yep. its the rears that wore out like that. Wierd I would think. I just wanted some feedback from those that have been running it for a while now. I go through front blades in about 2 runs with a spool. Which is normal for me.
#4928
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by ottoman
After reading the last few posts I went and looked at both of my T2's... one is my 19t foam car and the other my rubber tire car. Both have been run hard and neither has had a blade changed yet. I can see no blade wear on either car.... I remember changing a blade on my 05 once.... but I think it was due to a bad crash
#4929
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Hi Guy,
i was new to T2 i do not know whether this is normal. when i place my top deck in the chassis i found out that after i put everything in and going to screw it the deck was slanted a bit to right side. then after i screw it i found out the top of the steering bellcrank was slanted to the left side? is that normal? thanks
i was new to T2 i do not know whether this is normal. when i place my top deck in the chassis i found out that after i put everything in and going to screw it the deck was slanted a bit to right side. then after i screw it i found out the top of the steering bellcrank was slanted to the left side? is that normal? thanks
#4930
You might try flipping the top deck over. The hole on top is off centered that the bellcrank fits into.
#4932
I was having a lot of problems out of my rear blades recently (running mod). They were wearing the inside of the blades to the pin in only 2 runs because the blades were not grabbing the "ball" of the dogbone tightly enough...in other words, there was a lot of up-and-down slop.
To prevent this, I started doing this modification:
Put the blade on the dogbone and lightly squeeze it with a pair of pliars so that it "grabs" the ball of the dogbone. Then, just heat up the top part of the blade (the "apex") with a heat gun, and let it cool while you are still squeezing it. It will then have a lot better contact area with the outdrive and wear a lot better. After doing this mod, I have run the car about 10 runs without having to change the blades .
I am going to add this tip to our XRAY T2 Tips & Tricks page pretty soon, but since the subject came up, I went ahead and explained it here.
To prevent this, I started doing this modification:
Put the blade on the dogbone and lightly squeeze it with a pair of pliars so that it "grabs" the ball of the dogbone. Then, just heat up the top part of the blade (the "apex") with a heat gun, and let it cool while you are still squeezing it. It will then have a lot better contact area with the outdrive and wear a lot better. After doing this mod, I have run the car about 10 runs without having to change the blades .
I am going to add this tip to our XRAY T2 Tips & Tricks page pretty soon, but since the subject came up, I went ahead and explained it here.
#4934
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by Nexus Racing
I was having a lot of problems out of my rear blades recently (running mod). They were wearing the inside of the blades to the pin in only 2 runs because the blades were not grabbing the "ball" of the dogbone tightly enough...in other words, there was a lot of up-and-down slop.
To prevent this, I started doing this modification:
Put the blade on the dogbone and lightly squeeze it with a pair of pliars so that it "grabs" the ball of the dogbone. Then, just heat up the top part of the blade (the "apex") with a heat gun, and let it cool while you are still squeezing it. It will then have a lot better contact area with the outdrive and wear a lot better. After doing this mod, I have run the car about 10 runs without having to change the blades .
I am going to add this tip to our XRAY T2 Tips & Tricks page pretty soon, but since the subject came up, I went ahead and explained it here.
To prevent this, I started doing this modification:
Put the blade on the dogbone and lightly squeeze it with a pair of pliars so that it "grabs" the ball of the dogbone. Then, just heat up the top part of the blade (the "apex") with a heat gun, and let it cool while you are still squeezing it. It will then have a lot better contact area with the outdrive and wear a lot better. After doing this mod, I have run the car about 10 runs without having to change the blades .
I am going to add this tip to our XRAY T2 Tips & Tricks page pretty soon, but since the subject came up, I went ahead and explained it here.