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Old 06-15-2006, 07:11 PM   #4921
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Yea, it needs more contact area for better wear. But maybe they think it would cause binding if they did that.
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Old 06-15-2006, 07:43 PM   #4922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i have the bodies ready,i am finishing the outdrives and then i send them out for hardening.it shouldnt take much longer.
Keep us posted on your progress!!
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Old 06-15-2006, 07:49 PM   #4923
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I havent had rear pins wear prematurely if that helps and I ran some mod and 19t before (2004) and recently. Actually, recently probably 20, 30 packs of mod and rear pins are fine.
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Old 06-15-2006, 09:25 PM   #4924
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I ran Shumacher blades on one of my TC3s for 5 years with no wear. Front or rear.
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Old 06-16-2006, 09:19 AM   #4925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerspeed
Yea, it needs more contact area for better wear. But maybe they think it would cause binding if they did that.
I have used some aftermarket diff halves that were wider on my TC3 and didn't have any problems with binding. They worked pretty well actually, but I think XRAY could solve this problem by simpy using a different material. Something that a little more durable
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:36 AM   #4926
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After reading the last few posts I went and looked at both of my T2's... one is my 19t foam car and the other my rubber tire car. Both have been run hard and neither has had a blade changed yet. I can see no blade wear on either car.... I remember changing a blade on my 05 once.... but I think it was due to a bad crash
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Old 06-16-2006, 02:28 PM   #4927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerspeed
Yep. its the rears that wore out like that. Wierd I would think. I just wanted some feedback from those that have been running it for a while now. I go through front blades in about 2 runs with a spool. Which is normal for me.
I talked to Butter the other day and he is running mod changing blades about every 2 runs he said.
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Old 06-16-2006, 02:38 PM   #4928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ottoman
After reading the last few posts I went and looked at both of my T2's... one is my 19t foam car and the other my rubber tire car. Both have been run hard and neither has had a blade changed yet. I can see no blade wear on either car.... I remember changing a blade on my 05 once.... but I think it was due to a bad crash
Dude...I don't know what you're doing cause every XRAY guy I know has a bucket of extra blades in their pit bag cause they go through them so fast.
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Old 06-16-2006, 05:55 PM   #4929
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Hi Guy,
i was new to T2 i do not know whether this is normal. when i place my top deck in the chassis i found out that after i put everything in and going to screw it the deck was slanted a bit to right side. then after i screw it i found out the top of the steering bellcrank was slanted to the left side? is that normal? thanks
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Old 06-16-2006, 06:01 PM   #4930
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You might try flipping the top deck over. The hole on top is off centered that the bellcrank fits into.
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Old 06-16-2006, 06:18 PM   #4931
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blades wear out in stock and 19 turn also.that is there purpose.to absorb the impact and save the outdrives.this is not just on the t2 but all cars that use them.it is even harder on them when using a oneway or a spool.
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Old 06-16-2006, 06:46 PM   #4932
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I was having a lot of problems out of my rear blades recently (running mod). They were wearing the inside of the blades to the pin in only 2 runs because the blades were not grabbing the "ball" of the dogbone tightly enough...in other words, there was a lot of up-and-down slop.

To prevent this, I started doing this modification:
Put the blade on the dogbone and lightly squeeze it with a pair of pliars so that it "grabs" the ball of the dogbone. Then, just heat up the top part of the blade (the "apex") with a heat gun, and let it cool while you are still squeezing it. It will then have a lot better contact area with the outdrive and wear a lot better. After doing this mod, I have run the car about 10 runs without having to change the blades .

I am going to add this tip to our XRAY T2 Tips & Tricks page pretty soon, but since the subject came up, I went ahead and explained it here.
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Old 06-16-2006, 06:50 PM   #4933
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That's a good tip Nexus. Did that help on the front too?
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Old 06-16-2006, 07:09 PM   #4934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus Racing
I was having a lot of problems out of my rear blades recently (running mod). They were wearing the inside of the blades to the pin in only 2 runs because the blades were not grabbing the "ball" of the dogbone tightly enough...in other words, there was a lot of up-and-down slop.

To prevent this, I started doing this modification:
Put the blade on the dogbone and lightly squeeze it with a pair of pliars so that it "grabs" the ball of the dogbone. Then, just heat up the top part of the blade (the "apex") with a heat gun, and let it cool while you are still squeezing it. It will then have a lot better contact area with the outdrive and wear a lot better. After doing this mod, I have run the car about 10 runs without having to change the blades .

I am going to add this tip to our XRAY T2 Tips & Tricks page pretty soon, but since the subject came up, I went ahead and explained it here.
Arun you are the man.
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Old 06-16-2006, 07:16 PM   #4935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOTMAN
Dude...I don't know what you're doing cause every XRAY guy I know has a bucket of extra blades in their pit bag cause they go through them so fast.
I dont know... maybe its a asphalt thing... I race carpet
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