GCT69

iTrader: (10)

TNX kilruf, one more thing do you have the part number of the LW and what does it do anyways?

Jam-ehz

iTrader: (6)

Just make sure you do get bridged blocks for clearing both belts...

LW Suspension is lighter in weight, offers additional settings (5 shock holes instead of 2, more movement to change wheelbase) to make the car more responsive and tunable. Only problem is that you have to buy the whole kit to replace a broken arm, and if it's the TA04/TB-02 kit, you're going to have a LOT of CVDs that won't fit the TA05.

If I'm not mistaken, I think you have to swap the axle bearings out for smaller ones too... does anyone know if the kit includes them?

Wow, these Tamiya CF towers are thick.. 3mm.. sure thicker than the TB-02 ones..

Noticed the High-Precision diff has a little smaller diameter at the outdrives.. Probably to make clearance for the ring, but it does make it a bit easier to slip off the diff carriers without having the adusters come apart. It shims a bit different too, I've found .2 on the left and .1 on the right, although they give you 6 .1mm shims.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

The newer 1XA-XD blocks can be flipped and include two 3mm spacers that allow you to maintain the same suspension shaft height.

Arms are available seperately. I'm running 46mm swingshafts on mine with no problems.

The kit does inlcude 5x9mm bearings for the axles.

Supra66

In the diff building step, it is indicated that the anti-wear grease be used for the one piece thrust bearing. While checking the 414 and evo IV manual, they simply use the reg diff grease. I am wondering what is the effect of using thicker grease in the thrust bearing?

I know tamiya makes TA04 hard suspension arms and rear uprights. Do they make the hard front steering knuckles as well?

It seems like everyone has sold out the front one-way. Any idea when they will hit the shore here?

Jam-ehz

iTrader: (6)

Ah.. nice.. that solves the problem with having to buy bridged blocks and not being able to swap them...

Cool.. I guess the X-blocks allow for a slightly shorter arm length for the 46mm's. Do you think the extra 2mm would make a big difference?

Do they come with the uprights and steering axle as well, or are they all separate now? How much more are they than TA04 parts?

So what are the major pros/cons with a smaller bearing? Weight, I guess, but does efficiency or durability change?

Jam-ehz

iTrader: (6)

Diff grease is for the diff balls and plates, but not the bearing. AW Grease or Black Associated Grease is best, because it won't leak out, and keeps the bearing rolling with lots of usage. Using thinner stuff can get contaminated easier by dirt, and once the thrust stops rolling, your diff will unscrew, or the screw will snap like mine did, since nothing's keeping it smooth through the diff rotation. Even with AWG things can happen, but you'll be better off with it than regular grease. Just pack it in till there's no space left. I keep an extra thrust bearing and screw in my kit just in case.

Yup, 53579, TA04 Hard Front Upright.

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

No real cons just leave the factory grease in them. When they get cleaned they seem to self destruct with 1 board hit. Every issues from local racers and people here on the boards seems to come back to "freed" up bearings.

Rod, so what you think so far?? Narrow suspension seems good so far. Running close to Satoshi's set-up just a few changes here and there. Had a few issues with the stock out-drives and 19t. We have huge traction right now in SIR though. I put some Yok outdrive savers on for now until I can get the new diff joints. Have you heard of any changes to the motor? Fred did not know about the pinched can.....

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Heya Dan, so far it's okay. I'm gonna run it more this weekend and work on taking a tiny amount of steering out. If I could get that and maintain corner speed, it'll be good.

I am also using a narrow block setup similar to Satoshi's but everything else, I just made up One of my rear outdrives did show signs of blowing out so I took a dremel and put a notch around them so that those Tamiya outdrive rings would snap on. I also had to dremel a little bit of the upper inner camberlink mount so that they would not hit. Ya know..TRF..Tamiya Ready to File J/K

Hmmm yeah, the pinched can motor...what's up with that? I asked Fred about it and he said he'll need to think about it.

Martin Crisp

Hey Guys,

What is this thing about a "pinched" motor?

Do we have to use dogbones or can we use universals?

I hope to pickup my chassis next week. Tom has sold all of his stock, so he is trying to find a chassis for me.

Martin

Martin Crisp

Has anyone tried to use the TA05 front diff in the 415? Does it work?

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

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Difuser

iTrader: (2)

Tom sold you out huh, Martin you need to talk to that boy......

The pinched motor is the 25T GT tuned motor from Tamiya. It is not a rebuildable unless you were used to running the old Midnight Stock motors where they just needed a little "persuasion" for a good cut.

LW suspension is in for hop-ups so Uni's should be just fine as I read the rules. Along with anything bolted to it........

As for the diff it should work it will just need some creative shimming. It overall is narrower but still offset for the pulley. I know the spool will not fit from the 415.

Martin Crisp

Hey Dan,

image that, tom actually wants to sell these things

the 415 spool won't fit eh! too wide?


Rod,

I was surprised to read that you want to reduce steering given the double diff setup. What kind of springs, droop and rear toe are you running that create so much steering?

M

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

I'll figure stuff out tomorrow..I don't want to see what's on the car right now because it's too hot to go in the garage. But the car is almost there. When I say reduce steering, what I meant was that I had to be extra careful in the carosel after the kink or else it'll step out. Other than that, the car is pretty good everywhere else on the track. Imagine that? Dual diffs with steering? WTH? Don't worry about the setups too much Martin, just about anything will work on this car.

Yeah, the 25T motor that we have to use for handout has a pinched can so you can't remove the endbell...I let Fred know about it and he was all "doh" so I'm not sure what's going on now. Canada-eh!

Jam-ehz

iTrader: (6)

TCS Grudge Match Car Rules:

1. Chassis: The new TA-05 with the Ferrari 430 Body
2. Options allowed: Bearings, Lightweight screws, Lightweight suspension. Universals and aluminum suspension blocks (These are the only options available at TA at this time)
3. No one-ways or spools allowed. The TA-05 must use front and rear Ball diffs.
4. The body used must be the Ferrari 430. Think of it as a Ferrari Cup race.
5. Tires: Take-Off Pre-glued CS-27. These will be available for Purchase at Tamiya America during the event for $25.00. (Maximum of two race sets allowed)


Will there be a concourse for the Past Champs' Ferrari bodies?