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Old 12-31-2012, 08:11 AM   #676
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Originally Posted by racer034life View Post
I may have to buy this car and a few spares to play around with. Are any of you racing this at your local clubs. If so are you racing carpet or out doors? how does the car handle?
I'm racing my S1 locally at my club's indoor carpet track in the 17.5 blinky class. I use Sorex 28R pre-mount tires and 2S lipo packs. My car handles great and I took TQ and the A-main win on my first outing with this car beating several guys running sedans that cost much more.
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:54 AM   #677
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Will this may have to be my next car. I just bought a TC6 as my first on-road car for carpet this year. But I do like this car I just may need help with set-up on this car.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:06 AM   #678
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So tried running 5000wt in the rear diff and the car seemed to like it better than the 3000wt. The r1 diffs are truly different then any other in terms of oil that can be used. If I put
5000 wt in say any other diff it would be way too much.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:20 AM   #679
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Gotta echo Jeffs comments there, I finally got round to putting some power in the car yesterday, (10.5 boosted) at the warm up meeting for our winter nationals, the car handled the power perfectly with my set up from 21.5 boosted with the exception of upping the diff oil from 3k to 4.5k
If I had access to 5 or 6 I would have tried that if I'm honest,

The A main was really tight with just 10 seconds covering the top 20 and 5.5 covering the top 10... Luckily I scraped 10th with a pretty average run but was really happy with the car, just my driving and a severe hangover causing the problems haha
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:20 AM   #680
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Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
So tried running 5000wt in the rear diff and the car seemed to like it better than the 3000wt. The r1 diffs are truly different then any other in terms of oil that can be used. If I put
5000 wt in say any other diff it would be way too much.
Hi Jeff,

Which one of your setups are you running? Are you still widening you car at the hexes? I want to try some of your setup changes this weekend.

Thanks...
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:40 AM   #681
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Building my Spec-R - what tension should i be setting on the belts?
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:01 PM   #682
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Building my Spec-R - what tension should i be setting on the belts?
Loose as you can before they skip/slip at all. Note they will loosen up and stretch a little after running the car a few times.
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:08 PM   #683
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Originally Posted by PitNamedGordie View Post
Hi Jeff,

Which one of your setups are you running? Are you still widening you car at the hexes? I want to try some of your setup changes this weekend.

Thanks...
I race with Jeff, and before he replies himself, I can tell you that our club just changed to a new layout which means less grip from the carpet itself than normal. I believe he is widening the car in the suspension mount themselves. I believe he may not have had any shims at the hexes this race. When the grip builds back up then the shims will be needed again. We usually have 75 to 95 entries so it won't take long

I got some of Jeff's shims to place between the hexes and the rims on my car, they are really nice!!! He did a great job on them.

Steve
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:30 PM   #684
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Does anyone know if the Spec-r (SPR-R1P303) steering knuckle and rear hub is an exact fit for the Xray T2/T3?
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:01 PM   #685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PitNamedGordie View Post
Hi Jeff,

Which one of your setups are you running? Are you still widening you car at the hexes? I want to try some of your setup changes this weekend.

Thanks...
Hey My current setup goes like this.
front end:
camber: -1.5 deg
caster: 4 deg
toe: 1 deg out
ride hieght: 5mm
sway bar : 1.4mm
wheel hubs: 4mm (kit)
hub spacers: none
droop: 3mm uptravel from ride hieght
link position: #3 with 3mm of spacers under ball
zero spacers under arm mounts
running a gear diff with silicone ear plugs to lock it up
shocks : 45wt ae oil drilled caps and 2.9 spring 0% rebound 62mm length
shock mount: #4 on tower and "D" on lower arm

rear:
camber: -2.0 deg
toe-in: 3 deg
ride hieght: 5mm
sway bar : 1.2mm
wheel hubs: 4mm (kit)
hub spacers: none
droop: 2mm uptravel from ride hieght
link position: #3 with 3mm of spacers under ball and # 2 on hub with 2mm spacer
zero spacers under arm mounts
diff oil: 5,000wt
shocks : 35wt ae oil drilled caps and 2.6 spring 0% rebound 62mm length
shock mount: #6 on tower and "C" on lower arm

chassis:

arm mount shims : front end- fr 4mm R-1mm, rear end fr-4mm R-1mm
4mm bellcrank spacers and # 2 hole on knuckle with 1mm spacer
no bell crank brace

only using the front 4 screws and only 2 screws in the rear for topdeck
using center point servo mount

arm mount inserts :

front : #1 insert in outside position. on all front mounts

rear:#2 insert in outside position on all rear mounts

note: this widens the cars inner hingpin by 1mm per side .



Quote:
Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
I race with Jeff, and before he replies himself, I can tell you that our club just changed to a new layout which means less grip from the carpet itself than normal. I believe he is widening the car in the suspension mount themselves. I believe he may not have had any shims at the hexes this race. When the grip builds back up then the shims will be needed again. We usually have 75 to 95 entries so it won't take long

I got some of Jeff's shims to place between the hexes and the rims on my car, they are really nice!!! He did a great job on them.

Steve
for those that do not know i have made some hex spacer kits that are 12 pc kits that come with .5mm, .75mm and 1mm hex spacers. they are cnc machined i sell the kits for $10 so if anyone is interested pm me and the price does not include shipping.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:37 AM   #686
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My setup sheet thanks to petitrc.com http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/spec...le20121229.pdf
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:22 PM   #687
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Looking at the manual... I can't figure out where there's both a 10x13x4 and 10x15x4 bearing that goes over each side of the diff/spool outdrives. What's up with that?

EDIT: Nevermind, I see now that the 10x13x4 is just a spacer.

-Mike
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:01 PM   #688
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Trying to decide weather to get an R1 over the S1 just got harder .. S1 is on sale for $99 at RC mart.... I dont mind paying more dosh but the S1 seems insane value.
All of my driving will be asphalt track. I thought I was set on the R1 but its a really tough choice!
Help!
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:12 PM   #689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpecRC View Post
Trying to decide weather to get an R1 over the S1 just got harder .. S1 is on sale for $99 at RC mart.... I dont mind paying more dosh but the S1 seems insane value.
All of my driving will be asphalt track. I thought I was set on the R1 but its a really tough choice!
Help!
Under $100 is a killer price and the car is very capable. On asphalt, I believe you want a slightly more flexible car anyway so having graphite for outdoors may not be ideal anyway.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:20 PM   #690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpecRC View Post
Trying to decide weather to get an R1 over the S1 just got harder .. S1 is on sale for $99 at RC mart.... I dont mind paying more dosh but the S1 seems insane value.
All of my driving will be asphalt track. I thought I was set on the R1 but its a really tough choice!
Help!
Might be worth just going for the S1, you can always buy a ton of stuff for it to make it into an R1 if you really wanted and I doubt it would cost more if you can get the S1 for $99.

Perhaps price up an S1 with some upgrades and see which one you would prefer to get.

Also, just noticed they now do a carbon bumper holder.
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