SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Here's my setup

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/spec...Maines_201304/

Bappe

my setup on low grip carpet was box stock with following changes:

rear shocks in hole 4 on tower, 35wt oil in all 4, tamiya white springs in front, blue in the rear
camber links in inner position on bulkheads (long links) 3mm spacer under inner position front and rear

Robbob

iTrader: (8)

Thank you, seems like most are sticking around that with minor changes to suit driver styles.



Appreciate that.



Thanks, appreciate the feedback and extra info.

lawton70

I am using the 3Racing DCJ's. After a small amount of use(2 race days) I found the joints have picked up a bit of rotational play. The joints probably make up about 1/32 to 1/16 of a rotation of the axle. For example, you hold the spool so it does not move the front wheels can still be rotated about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.

I do not have the spec-R brand of DCJ's so I cannot compare. The CVD's that came in the box seem to have less play in comparison.

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

My R1 has totally endured full season of 10.5 boosted crashes (only broke a lower front arm and a C-hub...) So I think you won't have problems with 21.5

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

As much as I love my R1s, I think front/side impacts have a pretty high chance of breaking something. I broke the front C-hubs and steering blocks on several occasions, along with the lower pins. This is in 25.5 by the way. But, parts are cheap enough and fast enough to replace, so I stick with it.

JayL

I wonder if the breaking is temp related or a batch.

my track has boards
I have hit chicanes on a front wheel full throttle and had the car jump straight up 3-4 feet with no break
I have been nailed at a stop at the end of the straight other car full throttle no breaks

all multiple times no issues
S1

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Interesting. I've broken parts in various temperatures, but I would say they were all above 60 degrees as we're indoors. I broke a C-hub by just barely sliding into the smooth side of a plastic pipe, though I suppose it could have been cracked/weakened from previous hits. Or maybe I just have bad luck

OldfartWal

iTrader: (2)

The meeting before last, I was 'dated' hard enough to launch the car about 5 to 10 metres through the air, then hit (again from behind) in the final hard enough to completely dislodge a rear shock (outdoors so never found it either).

Broke a rear pivot pin (must have been fractured) & put the car fairly hard into a unforgiving concrete barrier whilst at practice, tearing the whole front left suspension off.

Total cost to repair was about AUS$15, time to fix was about 10 minutes, not sure how a different brand would have fared, but my R1 was simple & cheap to fix.

Yep, stuff breaks, but have a quick comparison between the SpecR spare prices & the other 'name' brands & you can see why you are starting to see more SpecR cars around.

Not made better or worse than the other brands, but cheaper to fix when it does go a bit pear shaped.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Back when I had been racing for a year or two, I'd break stuff on my Shumacher Mi4 LP all the damn time. At least once per race night. C-Hubs, steering knuckles, hinge pins, hinge pin blocks, rear hubs, arms, whatever. I crashed a lot.

Same car, same class, 3 years later, I still crash sometimes, but I haven't broken anything for over a year. I still crash sometimes, sometimes still spectacular. But nothing breaks. Even in Modified this summer with the Mi4 CXL (same suspension design and plastics), I crashed a lot, some of them pretty spectacular, and never broke anything but a DCJ.

I think there's just something about how we crash when we're learning that breaks cars. Seemingly harmless low-speed smacks into a pipe can sometimes pack more of a punch than a spectacular-looking but glancing launch off a high-speed kink.

-Mike

mrjudd77

I think you are right Wal and Gripgoat. We tend to crash differently when new. I have only been racing for 12 months and for the first few months I was constantly breaking stuff and loosing bits during crashes (on my HPI Sprint 2). Since I have started racing with the SpecR I have noticed less breakages and lost parts. The car holds together better. I had originally put it down to the car itself, but I have improved my driving and changed receivers as well which also contributes to the durability of the car. Can't wait to see how it stands up to a full season of abuse both outdoor and indoor.

JayL

lol, so I am 'good' at crashing?
Does that count as a skill or just years of crashing made me good at it?

OldfartWal

iTrader: (2)

Waiting to see you at the track MRJ, RDS turned up last meeting, so we had 2 SpecR's in the field, my Pro Spec is built, just waiting for speedie & motor, heading down to the track today to price up a 2nd (& 3rd) transponder.

Not running the Pro Spec indoors, I'll be getting a 12th pancar & maybe using the R1, outdoors I'll drive the Pro Spec & having 'guest' drivers (as I have already said), drive the R1.

Kermit green may be going, I'll see, but looking to put some very ugly fluro colour schemes together.

RogerDaShrubber

iTrader: (6)

Yeah get rid of green, at night, no one can see green in their peripheral vision, while you can see it, because you are focused on the car, everyone else becomes pretty much blind to it. Do not throw the body out though, just cut some white vinyl panels out and put them on the roof, bonnet and boot, and you have the contrast needed for everyone else to see the car.

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Hi, can I use xray T4 plastic bumper for my S1? Or the Tamiya plastic bumper?

Thanks