Spec-R R1
06-12-2014, 03:40 PM
#3077
New Spec-R Carbon inforced suspension parts are available.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...id=60&s_sort=3
FYI, Thanks.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...id=60&s_sort=3
FYI, Thanks.
06-12-2014, 04:03 PM
#3078
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora La Reina de Los Ángeles del Río de Porciúncula, California, Unites States of America
Posts: 1,177
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Curious, Is this car a clone of the XRay T4?
06-12-2014, 04:36 PM
#3079
Tech Regular
no.
it shares some transmission components with the xray, but the suspension has the same geometry as the tamiya
it shares some transmission components with the xray, but the suspension has the same geometry as the tamiya
06-13-2014, 03:39 AM
#3081
that is brilliant, love the option of reinforced parts
06-13-2014, 09:07 AM
#3082
Tech Fanatic
New Spec-R Carbon inforced suspension parts are available.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...id=60&s_sort=3
FYI, Thanks.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...id=60&s_sort=3
FYI, Thanks.
06-13-2014, 10:58 AM
#3083
Tech Addict
That's what I read. Stiffer does not always equate to stronger or better.
Supposed to be good for outdoor racing when it is hot and you don't want your parts to flex when they warm up.
But the softer pieces may be "stronger" insomuch as they will bend before breaking.
Supposed to be good for outdoor racing when it is hot and you don't want your parts to flex when they warm up.
But the softer pieces may be "stronger" insomuch as they will bend before breaking.
06-13-2014, 03:42 PM
#3084
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora La Reina de Los Ángeles del Río de Porciúncula, California, Unites States of America
Posts: 1,177
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
If this car has the drivetrain of xray and suspension of tamiya, then that could make this car a decent parts car since I have a T4'13 and TRF418?
Was thinking of getting the cheapest car they got.. like $90.. could at least use the rear diff as a front diff on my T4 and maybe some odds and ends.. screws.. belts too could be re-used?
Was thinking of getting the cheapest car they got.. like $90.. could at least use the rear diff as a front diff on my T4 and maybe some odds and ends.. screws.. belts too could be re-used?
06-13-2014, 05:31 PM
#3085
The 418 suspension is nothing like the R1 suspension. I tested it.
06-13-2014, 10:56 PM
#3086
Tech Fanatic
I race with a guy who has a 417v5. He doesn't make it to the track much anymore, but next time he does, I'll try to compare my spare spec-r parts with his spare 417v5 parts.
06-14-2014, 08:57 AM
#3087
Hi, I have a brand new built spec r r1 pro spec for sale, I have all aluminum red screws on top, with aluminum center pulley, kawada 98t 64p gear, shimmed everything correctly, turgney 21.5 motor red brand new, 120a turgney esc red as well the new one, xray battery carbon supports, front bumper support, all edges sanded and then sealed looks amazing, tamiya ball cups, smokem front spool drives with tamiya front djc, the strongest and smoothest setup for front spool, specktrum lowprofile servo, tamiya servo saver, tamiya red ball nuts, aluminum belt tensioner, and tons of other extras, selling it for $349 without electronics and $449 with all the electronics, shipped to canada or USA lower states
06-15-2014, 01:44 PM
#3088
R2
Hi any new of the R2 commong to the market ??
just about finshed thr S2 and I like some good changes fron the S1
just about finshed thr S2 and I like some good changes fron the S1
06-16-2014, 06:31 PM
#3089
Tech Apprentice
Are there any reviews on the S2?
Has anybody raced one who can compare it against an S1?
I assume the differences are subtle.
Has anybody raced one who can compare it against an S1?
I assume the differences are subtle.
Last edited by lawton70; 06-16-2014 at 06:37 PM. Reason: wording
06-17-2014, 07:38 PM
#3090
I guess this can be my little review heh...
There are very few changes to this car to really call it new.. the motor mount is different but uses the same plastics and mounts in the same locations as the s1. the servo holder is nice as it allows a little adjustability to suit different servos, but the outside mounting point squishes all my savox servo wires.
the prospec is a little better in this as it only uses one hole for the outer position so you kind of snake the wire around it. this one just squishes it.
the narrower chassis, i dont really get as id muhc rather bottom out the chassis than my motor lol. i guess its a little lighter with less material. the material itself seems to be cut a little nicer than my s1 was but nothing really new to report there. you could run an s2 chassis on an s1 and vice versa.
new dif has its benefits. they finally did away with that gawdawful double ballbearing design that leaks like a sif and have a nice fat oring. overall it reminds me of an xray dif and thats ok. though the tiny self tapping philips screws are a real no no.. the s1 had hex.
I also kinda miss the double gasket seal the s1 had as you had a paper gasket as well as an oring to seal.
its a tossup which dif id prefer to race with. i replaced one of the bearings in that with a shock oring and sorted out the leak issue and its still very free.
I do feel that the new dif is heavier than the old one but thats to be expected with more material in almost every part of it.
the lower shock towers are kinda pointless if the shocks arent made to suit. these are exactly the same shocks as the s1 right down to the included springs, though they changed the marking on the spring to a letter indicating the wright rather than the dab of color. this was confusing as the W for white could easily be read as M for medium.
as far as i can tell everything else remaints unchanged..
includeing the quality control..... i understand this is a cheap car made on the cheap likely, but a little more attention needs to be put into boxing and shipping prep. I built two of these cars for the club to rent out, another member has built one and these three cars have had missing parts, mishapen parts or miscounted parts.. one of my kits was missing a full shock body and packing. the two kits i built had different counts of various hardware. turnbuckles were kind of mix and match where i ended up using steering links to make camber links, had extra steering links, not enough long ballstuds...
they also didnt correct the one major thing almost every one in this thread has griped on... the ballcups... they are still made of the old material and pop off super easy. you will still need to buy tamiya ballcups for your kit.
I dont want to be a negative nelly, but after building the two S2's im not sure id be so inclined to recommend this kit to a new person to the hobby. it takes a lot of cleanup and careful assembly to work its best. ideally you would dump all the shims and buy aluminum ones as most of them were different thickness and dont work. a noob would easily build the arm mounts with bindy arms as the holes dont even line up if you follow the manual lol.
its a fun car for what it is. its cheap and has everything the much more expensive ones do.
if someone takes their time with it and builds it carefully, its fast and durable. if you are serious about wanting to race though id probably save up a little more to buy an R1 or R2 when it comes out.
I did race my S1 back to back with my Serpent S411TE with mostly the same setup and didnt lose anything.
the suspension plastics are just fine in this car, but the bulkheads are quite something else. they flex quite a lot and dont have flat mounting faces which can be very frustrating lol.
id like to get my hands on this cars direct competition to see how they compare in overall quality. maybe compare it to 3racing xi sport, tamiya xv01 tc ect.
so... dont get me wrong lol. i really like this car... but it definitely has a few quirks.
There are very few changes to this car to really call it new.. the motor mount is different but uses the same plastics and mounts in the same locations as the s1. the servo holder is nice as it allows a little adjustability to suit different servos, but the outside mounting point squishes all my savox servo wires.
the prospec is a little better in this as it only uses one hole for the outer position so you kind of snake the wire around it. this one just squishes it.
the narrower chassis, i dont really get as id muhc rather bottom out the chassis than my motor lol. i guess its a little lighter with less material. the material itself seems to be cut a little nicer than my s1 was but nothing really new to report there. you could run an s2 chassis on an s1 and vice versa.
new dif has its benefits. they finally did away with that gawdawful double ballbearing design that leaks like a sif and have a nice fat oring. overall it reminds me of an xray dif and thats ok. though the tiny self tapping philips screws are a real no no.. the s1 had hex.
I also kinda miss the double gasket seal the s1 had as you had a paper gasket as well as an oring to seal.
its a tossup which dif id prefer to race with. i replaced one of the bearings in that with a shock oring and sorted out the leak issue and its still very free.
I do feel that the new dif is heavier than the old one but thats to be expected with more material in almost every part of it.
the lower shock towers are kinda pointless if the shocks arent made to suit. these are exactly the same shocks as the s1 right down to the included springs, though they changed the marking on the spring to a letter indicating the wright rather than the dab of color. this was confusing as the W for white could easily be read as M for medium.
as far as i can tell everything else remaints unchanged..
includeing the quality control..... i understand this is a cheap car made on the cheap likely, but a little more attention needs to be put into boxing and shipping prep. I built two of these cars for the club to rent out, another member has built one and these three cars have had missing parts, mishapen parts or miscounted parts.. one of my kits was missing a full shock body and packing. the two kits i built had different counts of various hardware. turnbuckles were kind of mix and match where i ended up using steering links to make camber links, had extra steering links, not enough long ballstuds...
they also didnt correct the one major thing almost every one in this thread has griped on... the ballcups... they are still made of the old material and pop off super easy. you will still need to buy tamiya ballcups for your kit.
I dont want to be a negative nelly, but after building the two S2's im not sure id be so inclined to recommend this kit to a new person to the hobby. it takes a lot of cleanup and careful assembly to work its best. ideally you would dump all the shims and buy aluminum ones as most of them were different thickness and dont work. a noob would easily build the arm mounts with bindy arms as the holes dont even line up if you follow the manual lol.
its a fun car for what it is. its cheap and has everything the much more expensive ones do.
if someone takes their time with it and builds it carefully, its fast and durable. if you are serious about wanting to race though id probably save up a little more to buy an R1 or R2 when it comes out.
I did race my S1 back to back with my Serpent S411TE with mostly the same setup and didnt lose anything.
the suspension plastics are just fine in this car, but the bulkheads are quite something else. they flex quite a lot and dont have flat mounting faces which can be very frustrating lol.
id like to get my hands on this cars direct competition to see how they compare in overall quality. maybe compare it to 3racing xi sport, tamiya xv01 tc ect.
so... dont get me wrong lol. i really like this car... but it definitely has a few quirks.
