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Old 09-25-2012, 12:26 AM   #361
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Originally Posted by Stilo View Post
Actually from what Iīve understanded, diff height affects more through the angle of the driveshafts. Driveshafts always try to straighten and the more you have upward angle on the bone towards wheel, the more driveshafts push the suspension down to the ground adding grip. So if you run diffs in up position, you have less on power grip, but also less chassis movement regarding to your throttle input.
Is the thick part at the top still the low position? On the t3 it would've been the opposite. Down position was the diff higher.
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:39 AM   #362
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That is how I would understand it, when the diff itself is lower, then it it in the "low position". So thick part up, thin part down = Diff low. Ofcourse Iīm still not an expert on this Yokomo stuff, having just replaced my TRF 417X for this car.
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:14 AM   #363
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Iv received my yok bd7, built it and set it up!! Some of the sh1t I have read on this thread shows just how fu(king stupid people are or just cannot read.
I got an xray spur out of the packet, put it against the yok one, see within seconds that it'd be perfect once you drilled 2 xtra holes!! Took about a 1 min to do, infact I didn't drill it, unused body reamer! No shims, no messing around, straight on
Also bearing eccentrics for diff is thin bit at bottom = low diff, thick bit at bottom = high diff!! If you can't get full lock on steering use taller horn!!
All very very simple stuff, sounds like some people should have bought RTR stuff :-)
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:27 AM   #364
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Originally Posted by kosmic View Post
Iv received my yok bd7, built it and set it up!! Some of the sh1t I have read on this thread shows just how fu(king stupid people are or just cannot read.
I got an xray spur out of the packet, put it against the yok one, see within seconds that it'd be perfect once you drilled 2 xtra holes!! Took about a 1 min to do, infact I didn't drill it, unused body reamer! No shims, no messing around, straight on
Also bearing eccentrics for diff is thin bit at bottom = low diff, thick bit at bottom = high diff!! If you can't get full lock on steering use taller horn!!
All very very simple stuff, sounds like some people should have bought RTR stuff :-)
i just ran the car with 2 spur bolts on, as i forgot my reamer and it worked just fine. i also used the x-ray servo saver with the highest corner pointing up and i had 100% steering lock-to-lock.
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:52 AM   #365
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If you canīt get full steering lock, you make some big mistake...

Even the Instruction shows it... You must put the horn on to the servo a little bit offcentered! Not 90° to the ground.

The length of the horn isnīt the particular reason, as itīs not affect the endpoint, because you always set the turnbuckle if you using another horn...

If you put it on right, then you donīt have to play a lot with different epas or travelsettings...
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:54 AM   #366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kosmic View Post
Iv received my yok bd7, built it and set it up!! Some of the sh1t I have read on this thread shows just how fu(king stupid people are or just cannot read.
I got an xray spur out of the packet, put it against the yok one, see within seconds that it'd be perfect once you drilled 2 xtra holes!! Took about a 1 min to do, infact I didn't drill it, unused body reamer! No shims, no messing around, straight on
Also bearing eccentrics for diff is thin bit at bottom = low diff, thick bit at bottom = high diff!! If you can't get full lock on steering use taller horn!!
All very very simple stuff, sounds like some people should have bought RTR stuff :-)
Some of us like to make sure things are correct. If you don't like it move on.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:54 AM   #367
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Well I don't know which xray gears you are running but there are offset gears and non-offset gears. The ones that are offset rub on the top plate. The standard non-offset's work fine. I am running one now. The 2012 gears that were off-set for blinky rubbed. Also as stated earlier 2 screws has been enough.
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:02 AM   #368
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Hello,

here my Setup from the first carpet test.
YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7-mac-adenau-page-001.jpg
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:17 AM   #369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philipp1990 View Post
If you canīt get full steering lock, you make some big mistake...

Even the Instruction shows it... You must put the horn on to the servo a little bit offcentered! Not 90° to the ground.

The length of the horn isnīt the particular reason, as itīs not affect the endpoint, because you always set the turnbuckle if you using another horn...

If you put it on right, then you donīt have to play a lot with different epas or travelsettings...
I'm not really sure the difference between using a short or long servo horn.
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:14 PM   #370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philipp1990 View Post
If you canīt get full steering lock, you make some big mistake...

Even the Instruction shows it... You must put the horn on to the servo a little bit offcentered! Not 90° to the ground.

The length of the horn isnīt the particular reason, as itīs not affect the endpoint, because you always set the turnbuckle if you using another horn...

If you put it on right, then you donīt have to play a lot with different epas or travelsettings...
The length does matter, to short and you will not get proper end points.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
I'm not really sure the difference between using a short or long servo horn.
A short arm will have alittle quicker steering movement compared to a long arm will be alittle slower movement in steering at same servo speed.
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:19 PM   #371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shopkeeper View Post
The length does matter, to short and you will not get proper end points.



A short arm will have alittle quicker steering movement compared to a long arm will be alittle slower movement in steering at same servo speed.
Thank you for the explanation. I ran the bd7 a little more today and it was stellar as usual.
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:36 PM   #372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shopkeeper View Post
A short arm will have alittle quicker steering movement compared to a long arm will be alittle slower movement in steering at same servo speed.
I think you've got that backwards. A shorter servo horn will require the servo to turn farther in order to steer the car the same amount. A longer horn will require less servo movement.

-Mike
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:41 PM   #373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I think you've got that backwards. A shorter servo horn will require the servo to turn farther in order to steer the car the same amount. A longer horn will require less servo movement.

-Mike
Mike this guy Shopkeeper is corrected ...read his post over again...sorry
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Old 09-26-2012, 04:40 AM   #374
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Myself and friend raced last night, it was so much better than i expected.
We race on medium grip asphalt, I just ran all kit parts with 500 Xceed in the shocks and 1000 in the dif.
The under arm droop was 6 in front and 4 in the rear and ride height of 5mm.
The only upgrade parts I am going to get is the DCJ's and some different Sus blocks.
My mates car had the DCJ's and it showed quite considerably.
Can't wait till next Tuesday

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Old 09-26-2012, 10:00 AM   #375
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Can anyone confirm what size are the shock pistons.
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