Hot Bodies Cyclone
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post6195165
Cheers
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Has anyone tried swapping the belts over on the Cyclone TC from one side to the other. It looks like it shouldn't be a problem.
Jonny
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Thanks mate.
JL, yes there would be quite abit of dremelling on the moorespeed/standard chassis. The Tc chassis is 2.5mm compared with the standard 2mm on the previous cars. I prefer the feel of the car both indoors and outdoors with the 2.5mm chassis. So maybe getting the TC chassis is the way to go.
Jonny
Jonny
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (33)
Are there any other steering knuckles that can be modded to fit? I am just getting into carpet racing after 11 years of off-road, I have been borrowing a cyclone from Kendall Bennett, owner of amainhobbies. I have not driven any other cars, but I have tweaked the cyclone to a point where I really like it and would like to stay with the cyclone, I just want to make her more durable. I broke nothing on the first outing, but yesterday I broke 3 knuckles, a c-hub, and a cv bone. I am going to buy more knuckles when they come back in stock and build up a web of shoo-goo in the area that they always break, is anyone else doing this? Any other ideas? Thanks
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
The older style of chassis plates were still 2.5mm. They have smaller cell slot, and diff cut outs. They also have a slightly different material of carbon fiber as well.
The TC chassis plate is a little softer up front, but stiffer through the middle and rear of the chassis. The older style chassis plates are stiffer up front, but a little softer in the middle and rear.
Lately I've been running an older style chassis (fits my weight plate better ), but they require a different top deck setup. I run the TC topdeck cut where the belt tensioner is, or the older style upper deck. With the TC chassis, I run the TC top deck uncut. Each of those combos are similar in feel. I usually always run an FRP mid plate that is uncut. I find the car works in a wider range of conditions this way.
-Korey
The TC chassis plate is a little softer up front, but stiffer through the middle and rear of the chassis. The older style chassis plates are stiffer up front, but a little softer in the middle and rear.
Lately I've been running an older style chassis (fits my weight plate better ), but they require a different top deck setup. I run the TC topdeck cut where the belt tensioner is, or the older style upper deck. With the TC chassis, I run the TC top deck uncut. Each of those combos are similar in feel. I usually always run an FRP mid plate that is uncut. I find the car works in a wider range of conditions this way.
-Korey
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
anybody have feedback on the Murdiego and how it compares to all the other popular TC bodies?
is it just me or is the cyclone sagging or leaning on one side?
my front body posts are equal length and when my body is on...my body looks crooked and it is
is there a way to fix this?
my front body posts are equal length and when my body is on...my body looks crooked and it is
is there a way to fix this?
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
hey guys just thought i'd update on our australian nationals held yesterday. it was a cyclone 1 and 2 in stock 17.5. I took tq but my other mate got me in the third final to give him the win and me second. The difference was he was running no tyre additive. My bad. But we were the fastest on the track all weekend with matching best laps of 18.9. No one else got into the 18 second bracket!! Oh also he has the tc and i have the original black so goes to show both are very fast just require different settings!!
The older style of chassis plates were still 2.5mm. They have smaller cell slot, and diff cut outs. They also have a slightly different material of carbon fiber as well.
The TC chassis plate is a little softer up front, but stiffer through the middle and rear of the chassis. The older style chassis plates are stiffer up front, but a little softer in the middle and rear.
Lately I've been running an older style chassis (fits my weight plate better ), but they require a different top deck setup. I run the TC topdeck cut where the belt tensioner is, or the older style upper deck. With the TC chassis, I run the TC top deck uncut. Each of those combos are similar in feel. I usually always run an FRP mid plate that is uncut. I find the car works in a wider range of conditions this way.
-Korey
The TC chassis plate is a little softer up front, but stiffer through the middle and rear of the chassis. The older style chassis plates are stiffer up front, but a little softer in the middle and rear.
Lately I've been running an older style chassis (fits my weight plate better ), but they require a different top deck setup. I run the TC topdeck cut where the belt tensioner is, or the older style upper deck. With the TC chassis, I run the TC top deck uncut. Each of those combos are similar in feel. I usually always run an FRP mid plate that is uncut. I find the car works in a wider range of conditions this way.
-Korey
@jr007 Here is a foam asphault setup that worked very well, 13.5 med traction track .
Are there any other steering knuckles that can be modded to fit? I am just getting into carpet racing after 11 years of off-road, I have been borrowing a cyclone from Kendall Bennett, owner of amainhobbies. I have not driven any other cars, but I have tweaked the cyclone to a point where I really like it and would like to stay with the cyclone, I just want to make her more durable. I broke nothing on the first outing, but yesterday I broke 3 knuckles, a c-hub, and a cv bone. I am going to buy more knuckles when they come back in stock and build up a web of shoo-goo in the area that they always break, is anyone else doing this? Any other ideas? Thanks
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...s&pn=XRA302252
or get a Parma T2 bumper
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=PAR8053