charlie_b

iTrader: (1)

SpeedtechRC, Fusion Hobbies, and Beltran hobbies carries pretty much all the Cyclone parts. PM me what you need. Ill try to locate the oarts you are looking for.

bigz

anybody has a diagram on putting those POM outdrives on????

thanks.

EJ20

Anytime buddy! I find the center pulley #66492 at Horizon hobby, they have that in stock!

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=HBS66492

Pit_dad

EJ20, I ordered it from Horizon, Thanks for all the help. Are you trying to get on my X-mas list ? It's for Ladies only Thanks !!

decibels

iTrader: (3)

hey looks like this car is quick enough!! I raced against 2 photon's yesterday. i took tq and then made some changes the wrong way for first final got 5th( against foam runners as well) then readjusted my setup back the opposite direction and drove away from the field in the second and third to take the win!! also it started raing in the third and until i touched the paint i didn't even notice the car was still very quick! But i do beleive that you need to goop your tires on this car all the time it has a massive difference between gooping and not gooping!! p.s i beat the importer to who got second!!

Tim Stamper

Sorry to sound like a moron here, but sifting through over 1000 pages has been fun and time consuming. I need a lil help from the masses on something. I have never raced a Lipo/BL setup and the 2006 IIC was my last big race becuase of family/funding issues. I think a 3 year retirement is too long, I wanna play again.

I have a BMI hara kit that I raced in the 2006 IIC. It's still setup for foam and I luckily kept all of my stuff.

The questions I have are:

1. Lipo, do I need anything special to get it to fit
2. Brushless, are the pulleys and the motor plate needed? Will the plate fit?

I am planning on buying the diffs, and the newer front universals. Also plan on updating to the TC suspension parts.

I plan to get a 13.5 BL setup going and I might not be able to get going in this year's IIC, I am looking into hitting some of the other races this year.

Sucks that I have about 15 built and ready 19T motors and around 12 nimh packs that are paper weights now.

Thanks in advance if anyone can help,

Tim

OZDC

iTrader: (16)

Hi,

I'm having trouble finding a chassis for the Cyclone WCE.

Anyone know where i can get one?

Alternatively do any of the TC chassis fit? Part numbers?

thanks

DC

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Pro 4
alum. part

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Again !

cyclone x

iTrader: (3)

does anybody know where i can find The Jet aluminum steering knuckles

charlie_b

iTrader: (1)

Hey Tim.
1. The stock chassis/blocks fit up to a 4K pack. I can fit a ThunderPower 5K 40c pack by dremmeling part of the upper plat's bulkhead(takes 1 min to do.)
2. You can run brushless with teh stock 16T pulleys as well. Basically, with the cyclone, you can run brushless and lipo with no issues.

Tim Stamper

Thank you, those were the answers I was hoping for.

I figured I might have to bust out the dremel for somethin, so no worries.

Thanks again,

Tim

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

Hi,

I'm after some feedback after 2 race meets with my Cyclone TC.

Background information:
==================
Gear >> TEKIN RS Pro + 10.5 Redline + Cyclone TC + EP 5200 35C + Mx3 Radio + TC1030
Track >> outdoor asphalt, 1000' length, 210' straight, hi-speed into tight "S"

I started with the Cyclone TC "standard" setup.
I have attached the standard setup sheet (pdf format) just in case there is any confusion.

First race meet:
============
I forgot to apply black grease to the CVD joints, and broke a CVD pin each race.

Second race meet:
==============
I purchased some Muchmore 32 Absolute pre-mounts. As the first race progressed the car became more and more taily, and then started to do 180+ degree spins. When I came off I found that all the tires were coming unglued from the rims. The left-rear tire was 100% unglued. The other guys at the track indicated that this was a known problem with the MM pre-mounts. Advice was to get loose tires and do your own gluing. The only other tires I had were used Takeoff CS-32s (with medium/blue inserts).

With the Takeoffs, high speed cornering and medium speed direction changes seemed reasonable. However, coming out of a slow speed corner and applying power, the car would spin out very easily. When I looked at the Takeoffs they had some slight tire peeling (nothing like the Muchmore tires) but I'm not sure if this was enough to cause problems.

Preparing for Third race meet:
=======================
I have purchased loose Takeoff CS-32 tires, medium/blue insets, yokomo rims, and prepared / glued myself. So if anything goes wrong with the tires, I only have myself to blame.

Challenge for Third race meet:
=======================
So lets say that I get to the track for my 3rd race meet, the tires don’t come unglued, but I'm still having tailyness issues when applying power coming out of slow speed corners.
** I would appreciate a list of changes I should try, and their ordering, in an attempt to help resolve the tailyness issue.

Other Query.
==========
As I was looking at some of the other drivers setup sheets on the web, I started to wonder how the SAME angled pivot blocks (2.5 and 3.0 degs in kit) can be used on the front AND rear of the car. I initially assumed they were used to set anti-dive and anti-squat, but I'm not so sure after reading a thread discussion which indicates that the purple shims are (can be) used to do these adjustments.

I have the Hudy setup theory book and the sections on anti-dive and anti-squat make sense. That is, the more the arms lean backwards the larger the angle. The angle can be increased by raising the FRONT of the suspension arm (lowering rear would be equivalent). This applies to the front and rear arms. All makes sense.

However, that is where I have an issue with the Cyclone TC angled pivot blocks (assuming they are used for anti-dive and anti-squat). They are mounted in front of the front suspension arm, but at the REAR of the rear suspension arm. The same block used at one end would increase the angle, while at the other end it would DECREASE the angle. This does not make sense to me, as the pivot blocks are labelled with fixed angles, and can be used at the front or rear of the car.
** What am I missing ?

Thanks in advance

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

how many CVD pins did you break? I never grease my CVD"s, just keep them clean and I've only broke 1 on my yokomo.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Those blocks adjust toe in in the rear, and arm sweep up front. What they do is angle the arms forward or back depending on what end of the car you are adjusting (look at the arms/inner hinge pins from the top of the car and you'll see what I mean).

You adjust antisquat, prosquat, antidive, and kickup all by adding or removing shims from under those "toe blocks".

I'll be honest, I'm not a fan of the kit setup. I would start with either Hara's 2008 reedy race setup, or try Andy Moore's 2006 worlds winning setup. Either one of those is a good starting point for setup. You can find these on http://www.hotbodiesonline.com in the setup sheet section.

-Korey