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Old 08-13-2008, 03:34 PM   #13441
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Something I found was the ball studs, if they are to long they can put pressure on the diff bearing holders if you are using the inside holes on the bulk heads (long links)
Make sure you have a little play side to side on the diffs and lay shaft.
If this is your first TC I would start with the fixed pulley and try the one way later.
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Old 08-13-2008, 04:39 PM   #13442
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Originally Posted by Shadows View Post
anyone got a "second batch" TC kit recently? and can confirm if HB has fixed the rear hub alignment issue? I noticed new kits now have the 2008 reedy winner sticker of HARA stuck on the front of the box... or are these the same old kits (with the bad batch of rear hubs) with a new sticker?
yes, the problem has been fixed.

Thanks,
-Hiro
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:22 AM   #13443
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Originally Posted by tenpins77 View Post
Okay guys,

this is probably going to sound completely stupid and ridiculous but this is my first "real" touring car, so here it goes!

I noticed that after building the car i put wheels/tires on it and the car doesn't roll smoothly? I mean i can put it down and push it, but lets say i was on a big open floor, and i pushed the car it wouldn't continue to roll? Perhaps im just used to shaft driven cars. Is this normal because its new/belts etc, or did i once again screw something up?
Tim
It is also a good practice during the build of the kit to check rotating parts if free from binding, shims as appropriate. I find out that during the assembly of bulk heads when I finally putting the top part to secure the bearings in place, it would compress the bearing making the differential (front and back) to not rotate freely, so I put some shims in between the lower and upper bulk heads (see picture). just my 2 cents..
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:37 AM   #13444
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Default lipo holder

Just sharing my temporary battery holder for stick pack style lipos... it's not pretty but it does the job.

I will refine it later, need to take out some materials from the improvised weight under the battery.. I used portion of a metric angular steel ruler for weight

Also I will see if I need more weight once I put in the electronics, tires and bodies to get to 1500gm minimum.
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Hot Bodies Cyclone-img_3492.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-img_3488.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-img_3489.jpg  
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Old 08-14-2008, 06:53 AM   #13445
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Okay guys, thanks for all the help, i really appreciate it.

ill take the plate off, and ill take the shims off of the center oneway and just space them on the shaft accordingly. I think im just used to a shaft car, where you don't have any belt tension.

Okay so essentially the one way pully should be facing the left side of the car, if looking from the rear to the front of the car?

thanks again,

tim
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Old 08-14-2008, 10:06 AM   #13446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizzle View Post
It is also a good practice during the build of the kit to check rotating parts if free from binding, shims as appropriate. I find out that during the assembly of bulk heads when I finally putting the top part to secure the bearings in place, it would compress the bearing making the differential (front and back) to not rotate freely, so I put some shims in between the lower and upper bulk heads (see picture). just my 2 cents..
3 racing bulkhead had issues need shim !
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Old 08-15-2008, 12:27 PM   #13447
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On open outdoor asphalt tracks, would running less front sweep/in-board toe than the standard 2.5 deg help with increasing corner speeds? I've read that running less sweep in tracks with high speed sweepers and corners works better since you get more corner speed...

I've noticed Hara used 1 deg front toe block in 2008 Reedy race as well...just wondering what you guys can share about this
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Old 08-15-2008, 12:29 PM   #13448
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I know its still kind of early but the new nexus racing indoor carpet track is opening soon and I will need to convert my setup from asphalt rubber to carpet rubber. Anybody have any suggestions on where I should start or how much I may need to change my setup?
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Old 08-15-2008, 08:42 PM   #13449
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Hi, anybody running the tc with low wind motor? how does it do? i hear its set up for modified motors and im planning to run in with 13.5. thanks.
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Old 08-15-2008, 09:59 PM   #13450
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Hi, anybody running the tc with low wind motor? how does it do? i hear its set up for modified motors and im planning to run in with 13.5. thanks.
Actually, out of the box, its setup for stock racing, 13.5 or 11.5 brushless.. 27T or 23T brushed because of internal ratio is lower = 2.175. Maximum spur gear can be used is 105T or get the optional brushless motor mount for open mod racing if you want to use bigger spur up to 110T..

Anybody able to gear for 3.5T brushless without using the optional brushless motor mount? I have the mamba 6900 system and final drive ratio required is around 9.0.. I want to use 116/28 spur/pinion combination..
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Old 08-16-2008, 02:17 AM   #13451
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Korey

Ive also tried you setup indoors on carpet on my WCE edition, but ive fitted the new arms and the carpet top deck.
i run the HB C Class body and reduced the droop as CCF man too 5mm all round
1st run i ran sorex 36r like you and found the car a bit understeery on power.
2nd run raised front droop to 6mm and fitted a well used set of sorex 32r, made car bit tail happy but quicker.
3rd run dropped front droop back to 5mm this calmed car down a lot.

Final i realised i had the wrong front arm spacing, with arms forward
changed as per your setup to arms back, this made the car real tail happy and very sideways out of corners.
Maybe you do this due to the less physical grip of the 36r tyre.
Are the TC tower holes the same as the WCE towers.

Richard

Last edited by richard baker; 08-16-2008 at 02:20 AM. Reason: any question
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Old 08-16-2008, 03:01 AM   #13452
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The sorex 36R is NOT a carpet tire. I've never had good luck with these. I run on a highly abrasive indoor asphalt track that is hard on tires, so we run sorex 36R's so they actually hold up through a run. The track also has very very high traction. Personally I prefer sorex 28R's on carpet.

So it sounds like most of your problems are coming from an improper tire for the track surface. If you have to use the sorex 32R's, then try and just soften up the car a bit. Angling the camber links (fewer shims on the inner pivots) will create more mechanical grip overall. Maybe even ad a little more rear toe in.

I'm not 100% sure on the TC shock towers having the same positions as the WCE. I do know that the TC shock towers are thicker, and they are slightly lower to accommodate the taller upper bulkheads.

-Korey
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Old 08-16-2008, 03:32 AM   #13453
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WCE and TC Shock Towers are definately different. They have different mounting holes for the lower TC Upper Bulkheads.
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Old 08-16-2008, 03:35 AM   #13454
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cheers i ment the the holes for shock mounting are they in same places.
I know the TC uses lower shock towers an shorter bodied shocks
korey i ment to say i use 3.0 rear toe and 1.5 front block.
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Old 08-16-2008, 05:20 AM   #13455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizzle View Post
...get the optional brushless motor mount for open mod racing if you want to use bigger spur up to 110T..
Speaking of optional brushless motor mount - anyone know the part number for this??

I remember seeing it before, but the last time I looked I didn't see a motor mount "tagged" as a brushless one
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