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Old 08-04-2008, 01:15 PM   #13246
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On power steering would be the same as on throttle...The car will have more steering when the car is accelerating. off throttle would be when the throttle input is at neutral, thus more steering when the trigger is at neutral.
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa know i understand . know i can set up my car better
Thanks
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:17 PM   #13247
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PRO SPEC BALL DIFF COMPLETE SET
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/piw.p...=67720&lang=en
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:18 PM   #13248
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Im selling my cyclone

Its in the classifieds if anyone is interested
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:19 PM   #13249
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Yes instock !
95%+ parts instock !

http://rcmarket.com.hk/index.php?cPa...sort=2a&page=4

Last edited by RC MARKET; 08-04-2008 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:20 PM   #13250
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the pro spec ball diff

http://www.apexmodels.com/product-se...ories&id=16987
its a great diff . i know someone who has it and he find it much better
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:46 PM   #13251
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thank you guys... i will buy this one
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:51 PM   #13252
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i find here!!

http://www.super-rc.co.jp/cp-bin/osc...ducts_id=18714

but i dont understand japanese!! hehehe
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:56 PM   #13253
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Will any of these pistons work as an alternate to the 3 hole 1.1'a?
Are there any other options?
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:57 PM   #13254
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Quote:
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What surface are you running in?
running on outside bumpy technical asphalt track
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:18 PM   #13255
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Originally Posted by Khador12 View Post
Will any of these pistons work as an alternate to the 3 hole 1.1'a?
Are there any other options?
You can use Tamiya 3 hole pistons if you are in a bind. They are also a 1.1mm 3 hole piston, and they fit great. You might have to add a thin shim or something to reduce the slop between the e-clips and pistons. I noticed if you use the ti nitride shock shafts HB has, they fit perfect on the tamiya pistons.

-Korey
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:36 PM   #13256
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Guys... can anybody confirm that uneven rear toe is caused by the rear hubs? I replace the rear hubs with my pro4 spare rear hubs and I supposed they are not molded right also... I have yet to try other brand rear hubs. Have anybody get around this problem other than buying the aluminum rear hubs or changing to tamiya 416 rear hubs and pins?
Yes it is caused by mis-molding of the rear hubs, it is a pretty recent isse, your old Pro 4 parts should give equal toe.

There is a fix some of the team are using in here Europe...
First measure the toe of each rear wheel and then use a 2.5mm drill bit to correct the angle of the hingepin hole.
It'll make the hingepin hole a bit too big and give slop side-to-side, so drill two holes in the rear of the hub and put in grub screws, using the original grub screw and the two new ones its possible to tweak the hub to the correct toe using a setup station.

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Last edited by Stew Noble; 08-07-2008 at 05:06 AM.
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:53 PM   #13257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
You can use Tamiya 3 hole pistons if you are in a bind. They are also a 1.1mm 3 hole piston, and they fit great. You might have to add a thin shim or something to reduce the slop between the e-clips and pistons. I noticed if you use the ti nitride shock shafts HB has, they fit perfect on the tamiya pistons.

-Korey

Would you happen to have the Tamiya pt#.
Thanks.
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Old 08-04-2008, 03:02 PM   #13258
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http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53573

Part number is 53573

-Korey
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Old 08-04-2008, 07:52 PM   #13259
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I have just been looking at the pics form the Euro's, looks like Volker is running a few different settings, top deck has been split all the way down the centre, with the rear deck seperated. and it also looks like he is running different front driveshafts, look remarkably similar to losi double joints.

Check out the pic on redrc.net coverage
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Old 08-04-2008, 08:39 PM   #13260
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http://events.redrc.net/event-galler...ros/?nggpage=5

Anyone think thats a 3.5 rear toe block on the car?
Any ideas as to what brand it is? Development part?
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