Khador12

Will any of these pistons work as an alternate to the 3 hole 1.1'a?
Are there any other options?

kev-h

running on outside bumpy technical asphalt track

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

You can use Tamiya 3 hole pistons if you are in a bind. They are also a 1.1mm 3 hole piston, and they fit great. You might have to add a thin shim or something to reduce the slop between the e-clips and pistons. I noticed if you use the ti nitride shock shafts HB has, they fit perfect on the tamiya pistons.

-Korey

Stew Noble

Yes it is caused by mis-molding of the rear hubs, it is a pretty recent isse, your old Pro 4 parts should give equal toe.

There is a fix some of the team are using in here Europe...
First measure the toe of each rear wheel and then use a 2.5mm drill bit to correct the angle of the hingepin hole.
It'll make the hingepin hole a bit too big and give slop side-to-side, so drill two holes in the rear of the hub and put in grub screws, using the original grub screw and the two new ones its possible to tweak the hub to the correct toe using a setup station.

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Would you happen to have the Tamiya pt#.
Thanks.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53573

Part number is 53573

-Korey

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

I have just been looking at the pics form the Euro's, looks like Volker is running a few different settings, top deck has been split all the way down the centre, with the rear deck seperated. and it also looks like he is running different front driveshafts, look remarkably similar to losi double joints.

Check out the pic on redrc.net coverage

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

http://events.redrc.net/event-galler...ros/?nggpage=5

Anyone think thats a 3.5 rear toe block on the car?
Any ideas as to what brand it is? Development part?

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

its a jaad rear block, they do a 3.5 0.5 and -0.5 i think, so you can have subtle changes in car width same as is possible with the tamiya

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

Actually i just noticed the front block is the std block, so he was running 3.5 toe.
Man that track must have been very slippery.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Ahh thanks besercoe, ive never seen one of those before. for 19T up i usually always see 3 degrees on the rear and have wondered whether you would loose much speed with more rear toe.

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

I tried running 3.5 once and it was not too bad, i went to 4.0 and it was a weapon for the first half of the race, but after that it overheated the rear tires and it was a big effort to drive it

grizzle

iTrader: (1)

I replace the cyclone tc rear hubs with a pro4 rear hubs which I bought just recently that's why maybe it came from the batch with mis-molding issue.. anyway I will try the fix that you recommend... until I bought an aluminum rear hub.

STLNST... I have yet to run the car I'm still using my old and trusted pro4 here in parking lot racing.. so still have to see if the uneven toe will result in uneven tire wear. Did the uneven toe affect the handling of the car.. say if the other is 3degrees and the other is 2degrees...

Lazer Guy

iTrader: (1)

Has anybody tried the HPI rear hub 31417 1/R/L with 2* rear pivot block ???
That would still give you 3* rear toe. There is supposed to be some advantage to having 1* at the wheel and 2* at the pivot block but I don't know what that advantage would be for sure ??? I would like to know more about this combination before I try it myself.
Thanks

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Hey Russ, this is something I found on one of the car sites :

Inboard toe-in will give your car more support in the rear. This will give you a car that drives flatter over the rear and will transfer more weight to the front of the car during off-power transition. With outboard toe-in, you will have less support in the rear which will result in less overall rear traction. The car will also hold more of a set over the rear of the car and less initial steering in off-power transition.